Which tool manufactuers have the best reputations?

[jeff begin]

I'm a beginner who is planning on building a shop in Spring. I've done a lot of reading on the various tools and the companies than make them. Here is an overview on what I think I've learned. Are these perceptions accurate?

Delta - The gold standard when it comes to stationary tools. A very old and respected company with a good reputation. Though has quality started to suffer in recent years? They're now selling stuff at the borg and have had to contend with stiffer competition from importers.

Jet - Originally started to make Chinese knockoffs of Delta gear. The company was "rebooted" a few years back and began to take a more serious interest in quality control. How successful has this turn around been?

Grizzly - Perceived as meaning middle-of-the-road in terms of quality and price. Their tools are considered a good value and have a rep for excellent customer service (especially since they sell direct.)

Steel City Toolworks - A relative new comer to the game, I can't find much info on their reputation. Though they seem to be well-received and might be a slight step up from Grizzly in terms of value?

Powermatic - Like Delta, has been around a while. Seems to be the most well-respected (in terms of quality) of the bunch.

Mini Max, Hammer, etc - European companies that make the Festool equivlant of stationary machines. Very pricey with reputations to match. Should the hobbyist even consider these machines?

[Larry Edgerton]

It really depends on which tool the poster owns, then that is the best in most cases.:)

If I was to start over again I would like to think I would be smart enough to buy one of the euro combination machines, but I am probably not......

[Ben West]

Jeff, I'm glad you've asked such an easy, non-controversial question!

As I'm sure the responses to this question will illustrate, this is a tough, tough question to answer. Maybe the biggest reason for this difficulty is that most of these manufacturers make a range of tools in both quality and price. Grizzly, for example, makes tools at both ends of the quality/cost spectrum. While it's true they are probably regarded overall as "middle-of-the-road" in terms of price, they actually make some very cheap machines and some fairly expensive ones. The G0452 is one of the cheapest 6" jointers you'll find, while the G9860ZX probably rivals most any 12" jointer on the market in price and quality. Many of the other manufacturers likewise offer entry-level and industrial-level machines.

It's never easy making big purchasing decisions. When I do, I try to research the specific models I'm considering, then make my decision based on application, quality, price, and customer service. That's led me to have a whole variety of stuff in my shop, including Grizzly, Powermatic, Festool, Delta, and others. So far, I've had good luck with everthing I've purchased.

Good luck!

[jeff begin]

Yeah, that was another question I was going to tack onto that post: Does model matter more than brand name? You seem to have answered that for me. :-)

When I bought my house, it was a foreclosure that didn't come with any appliances. Rather than buying all GE, Kenmore, etc. so things would match, I researched each appliance on Consumer Reports and bought the one they considered the best value. They scientifically test each product, so I felt that I could rely on them to do my thinking for me.

However, a dishwasher is a dishwasher. And I've had the benefit of using various dishwashers for many years. When looking at jointers, not only do I have to choose between manufacturers, I have to decide: new or used? 6" or 8"? Jointer/planer combo? Helical knives or not? Etc...

I was hoping to pare down some of the choices by eliminating manufactuers before I even looked at their machines. But I guess that's not the possible... ugh... I hate having to make the decision how to spend hundreds or thousands of dollars on something I barely know how to use and can't get an objecive opinion about.

[John Keeton]

....I hate having to make the decision how to spend hundreds or thousands of dollars on something I barely know how to use and can't get an objecive opinion about.Jeff, each and every one of us has been in that situation. The opinions you get in response will be objective, i.e., based on empirical data - they will just be based on each responder's personal use, need, and experience.

Kind of like Larry said, whatever the poster has. That's because all of use have done that research, but based usually on $$ available, intended use, level of expectation, etc.

So, that is where I would start - lay out your needs first. Then, perhaps you can better assess what is out there - and, we may be able to respond with more "objective" thoughts based on your needs. I think your generalized assessments are relatively accurate, but again, depends on the model, need, etc.

And, don't buy them all at once! Do the research and buy a tool, set it up, play with it, and use that experience to go on to the next one.

[Jeffrey Makiel]

Jeff,
Wow! For a newcomer, you sure did your homework. I generally agree with your assessments.

However, I recommend that each tool you buy be based on the tool itself rather than brand. Mostly because all the brands you name are decent. Therefore, I don't recommend that you be 'brand loyal', but rather choose a machine based upon features and price.

I believe we are in the glory days of home woodworking. I envy your research. I also am jealous of all the great choices you have today.

The only advice I can give is that if it hurts a little to buy better equipment, that's OK, as long as you can responsibly afford it. Buying machinery twice is what I and many other folks have done. That's OK too, but a bit of a hassle, and also some interim discouragement while developing your hobby. What's the saying? Buy once, cry once. However, if you need to do it slowly or start out with lesser equipment, that's OK too.

Enjoy your new hobby!

-Jeff :)

[Roy Fleming]

Like the others, I think you buy the machine that best fits your situation for the use of the machineand $ available. For example, I have a General 350 table saw, a grizzly 8" jointer, Delta 15 & 12 " planners, Belt/disk sander, Original Dewalt MBF radial arm saw, Delta 65 year old shaper, Craftsman drill press, etc, etc. Sometimes you purchase a machine that is such a good deal you can't pass it up especially if it is on your want/need list. Be patient and depending on $ available, you can fine some great buys on used tools. The only "new" tools I own are my jointer and drill press.

[scott spencer]

Minimax, General, and Powermatic would top my list of quality and CS. AFAIK General is still a family owned business, still made in Drummondville, Canada, and they still forge their own iron. Dunno much 'bout Hammer, Felder, Laguna, etc. Delta has some nice machines but I'm not sure they're what they once were. Jet, Steel City, GI, Grizzly are all pretty close IMO...good bang for the buck for the serious hobbyist and light industrialist. I tend to buy the better value, whatever it may me at the time.

[glenn bradley]

If you buy by brand you will be happy with some tools and unhappy with others. You will find good and bad posted throughout many forums on each brand (yes, some folks even have issues with their Euro machines). I can only recommend that you shop by tool and not by paint job.

[Bob Slater]

Of all those listed, Delta reminds me of a company that once made great stuff and is now just a name. Maybe their 1.5 hp DC and some other items are still pretty good. Singer used to make sewing machines as I recall.

[Peter Quadarella]

Here is the ordering of the companies you listed :D:
Euro companies
Powermatic
Steel City
Jet
Grizzly
Delta

This is for new purchases only. I wonder which item I will get flamed the most for hehehe.

Disclaimer: of the above, I only own Steel City and Grizzly machines.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Jeff, something you may find interesting, is to look at the next step more expensive machine then you think you really need, and see if the differences are actually something that would be of value to you. If so, and it makes economic sense, you certainly would be happier with spending a bit more for better features. Cost is more features, so unless you have a finite price range, don't write off the Euro machines, or anything else. Ironically, some of the Euro iron is actually cheaper for better quality then the usual suspects. Have fun!

[Rick Fisher]

The Euro machines are fantastic. No question.

Grizzly is a great company. They sell really cheap stuff but they also sell product which is top notch. The price is the easiest way to tell.

Delta.. I think its pretty much over. Old stuff is great, new stuff.. not for me. Its Black and Decker now..

Powermatic and Jet both have really good customer service.

If I where you, I would analyze each tool and base the purchase on Customer service.

[Karl Brogger]

Delta - OK equipment. Not really industrial quality, but pretty decent. The old stuff that is. I wouldn't buy anything made in the last decade, perhaps longer. Uni-fence is a cruel, cruel joke.

Jet - I believe Jet is the cheap line from Powermatic. Haven't used any of it. What I've seen looks to be decently made. Some of it just looks like different paint, but I'm sure they get cheaper parts, electrics, bearings, etc....

Grizzly - I know this is blasphemy around here, but I've never used a single Grizzly tool that was worth anything. But, I haven't used anything newer. What I have been exposed to was garbage. Many on here think its good stuff and they've changed in quality over the years.

Steel City Toolworks - No clue, never seen in person or used this brand.

Powermatic - Decent quality. Hold up well in light industrial applications. I'd stay away from newer stuff as well. I've got a shop full of Powermatic equipment that I'm not overly thrilled with.

Mini Max, Hammer, etc - Some of the European equipment is awesome, most of it is not.

Northfield- I've used alot of their stuff, never had one complaint, never heard of anyone with a complaint. Everything is cast iron. Expensive as hell though.

Most of it comes down to what you want to spend. I've used some really expensive, and really unimpressive European stuff, but for the most part you get what you pay for. I look for more used equipment then new now days. Older Powermatics Model 66 tables saws are supposed to be in abundance used, but I haven't actually noticed that. I think that was a rumor started by someone at Sawstop. Old Rockwell/Delta stuff is really good. Most of my shop is occupied by Powermatic and Delta. The Delta stuff is mostly tools that I don't use very often, lathe, bandsaw, and an old 2hp Rockwell shaper for cutting the notch in drawers for tandem slides. I've got a Delta tablesaw for dado-ing, but there isn't many options for a right tilt saw that I was interested in. Northfield is I think the absolute best equipment made, but even doing this for a living I can't justify the cost.

[Joe Jensen]

Jeff, here are some things to consider
1) How sure are you about the hobby? If you have some experience and you are hooked, then the money you spend will likely go to good use.
2) Do you have to buy new. Some find a lot of comfort in buying new. A knowledgeable dealer with a good service guy would be great, (but hard to find in my experience) New gets you shiny paint, by also likey gets you some challenges in setting up and dialing the tools in.
3) If you don't have to buy new, buying newer used is a way to easily save 30-50%. If you are patient and willing to chase classified ads and craig's list you will likely find almost new versions of the same tools would want.
4) Are you mechanically inclined? I am. I have moved from new tools on your list to older industrial machines which are another big leap up. But, you have to enjoy rebuilding them. I have put new bearings in all, rewired, and fully disassembled and painted them.
5) How much space do you have?
6) What do you want to build? Furniture will require different tools than if you want to pursure lathe work.

I started in my dad's basement shop with very old sears tools (1940s). I was pretty avid in that shop through college. Once I graduated I bought an old Unisaw, and an old jonter. I made a lot of furniture for our first house with those two large tools. As I had more money I added. When I finished my MBA I treated myself to a large upgrade and got a shop full of new Powermatic machines (1990).

If you buy used, you will likely recoup all that you spend if you either upgrade later, or stop the hobby. If you buy new, you will lose 30-50% of your investment if you sell piece by piece or 50-70% if you sell all as a lot.

[Rick Fisher]

Joe.. Do you remember what you paid for that sears stuff new?

:D

[jeff begin]

1) How sure are you about the hobby? If you have some experience and you are hooked, then the money you spend will likely go to good use.
Not 100% certain. I've had a lot of hobbies in the past. However, this is the first time that I've had the space to be able to consider woodworking and so far, I'm hooked. I'm an engineer by trade, so it really fills me need to build things, but I also enjoy the artistic side of things as well. I'm confident enough that I will stick with it that I feel comfortable to begin buying the more expensive, larger tools.

2) Do you have to buy new. Some find a lot of comfort in buying new. A knowledgeable dealer with a good service guy would be great, (but hard to find in my experience) New gets you shiny paint, by also likey gets you some challenges in setting up and dialing the tools in.
No, I don't really care about new. I'm a CL addict who drives a pickup truck. Just point me to the deals. My only reservation is not knowing enough about the equipment to be able to evaluate the quality/condition of the tool before purchase.[/quote]


4) Are you mechanically inclined? I am. I have moved from new tools on your list to older industrial machines which are another big leap up. But, you have to enjoy rebuilding them. I have put new bearings in all, rewired, and fully disassembled and painted them.
My father was a tool and die maker who personally built the house I was raised in and helped me rebuild the engine of my first car. While not quite on his level, I learned a lot through osmosis. I'm an avid DIYer around the house and enjoy wrenching on old motorcycles. Getting greasy doesn't intimidate me, but on the flip side, I'd prefer to be spending the little free time I have learning to build furniture rather than replacing the brushes in a 50 yr old motor.


5) How much space do you have?
A two car garage that I have to share with the normal assortment of law care stuff and a pair of motorcycles. I also have a 400 sq ft "bonus room" above the garage that I could probably tap as a finishing room, extra storage, and possibly a place to stick a DC and air compressor.


6) What do you want to build? Furniture will require different tools than if you want to pursure lathe work. I don't really have an interest in turning pens or bowls, but it would be nice to be able to do spindles occasionally. A lathe would be a ways down on my list of purchases. What I'd like to focus on is doing doing some millwork and builtins for my house to replace all the builder grade pine crap it came with. Furniture is also an interest.


I started in my dad's basement shop with very old sears tools (1940s). I was pretty avid in that shop through college. Once I graduated I bought an old Unisaw, and an old jonter. I made a lot of furniture for our first house with those two large tools. As I had more money I added. When I finished my MBA I treated myself to a large upgrade and got a shop full of new Powermatic machines (1990).

If you buy used, you will likely recoup all that you spend if you either upgrade later, or stop the hobby. If you buy new, you will lose 30-50% of your investment if you sell piece by piece or 50-70% if you sell all as a lot.

Thanks for all the questions and info. I'll focus my efforts finding used equipment. Michigan has a pretty sizable WW community and stuff shows up on CL with some frequency.

[Ben West]

Jeff,

If you're willing to buy older machines and rehab them, it really opens up your world. I'm almost finished with the restoration of a Powermatic 81, a 20" bandsaw. I got this machine for a song, and when I'm finished it will exceed any of the machines I would have considered buying new. Some experts over at the OWWM forum speculate that this saw, when restored, is equivalent to a $10,000 machine in today's market. It sold for almost $5,000 when it went out of production in 1997, but can routinely be found for $1000 or less today.

So, if old machines are a possibility for you, go for it. It can turn into a hobby itself. The biggest challenge is finding the used machines.

[george wilson]

I have had a lot of trouble with Powermatic equipment,USA made,since 1960's,then,Asian made later on. In my opinion,they have been running on the name for several years. A brand I never liked.

I never liked the amount of pot metal that even the oldest deltas used,either,though I love my old 14" bandsaw,and my 1950's 20" bandsaw. The only thing wrong with those bandsaws,is that the thumb screws on the blade guides always manage to work loose in their pot metal castings. The old Delta jigsaws have a pot metal casting inside their crankshafts that is frequently broken. They want about $200.00 for a replacement. I let a young guy make a steel replacement for his down in Williamsburg. BEWARE of "Historic Parts" prices from Delta!!!

My old Dewalt 10" table saw beats the heck out of any Delta or Powermatic ever made. It weighs 200# more than a unisaw. Its arbor bearings are several inches apart,not just 2 bearings jammed in together. Every casting is bigger,so are the tilting gears and worms. The fence doesn't move when you lock it.

Why didn't it fly? Well,they made the arbor 3/4" instead of 5/8". I have to bore out any blade I get. Back in the old days,blades used to come with a push out bushing for 3/4",but not now. This is what happens when manufacturers get too greedy,and try to make you only buy their blades,etc..

The Dewalt is so much smoother running than any other saw ever made,it's too bad it didn't catch on. Probably also relates to how much advertising money a company can spend,or is wiling to spend.

Now I am stuck with a saw that is so good that I cannot buy one of those sexy looking Saw Stop saws !!! I've had the Dewalt since 1963,and am BORED!!!!!!!

[Ron Knapp]

Sounds like you’re getting some good advice. I would add a few things to what already has been said.
Over the years I have signed up for evening division woodworking classes at my local vocational schools. It can be a good way to meet other woodworkers and have an opportunity to use some large scale industrial equipment to help you get started. The instructors may be able to give you some good advice and it is an opportunity to learn the most important lesson – Safety. My actual experience is that the quality of the equipment and instruction is variable and if you have choices look around before selecting one. One of the schools I used to attend had very good prices on wood and plywood which help defray the cost of the course. The one I currently attend does not do this although they have arranged for a discount at local lumber dealers. For the cost of $125.00 ($100.00 if I were a resident of the town the school is located in) I get 9 classes with access to a 36” planner, 16” jointer, European sliding table saw along with various other industrial tools. Even though I have my own workshop and don’t have use for this level of machinery every day it’s handy to have it available for when I do.

Buying used equipment can be a vary good way to start a woodworking shop and with your background you should be able to deal with the issues necessary to tune and repair the equipment. Keep in mind that the may take some time.

Buying new does have a few pluses and minuses. Most of the problems I’ve seen are either caused by shipping damage or are electrical related. This is one of the problems with dealing with mail-order companies such as Grizzly. The will most likely go out of there way to help you but should it be necessary have to ship back a couple of hundred pound machine it can be daunting. Electrical problems can be frustrating to deal with. In general American made motors are much better in this regard but they add significantly to the cost of the machine.

I found that dealing and buying local has several advantages and my local dealers have let me in on several deals which resulted in my getting very good pricing. I have a truck and can usually pick up the machinery myself. I can inspect it at the dealers and if there appears to be a problem it can be corrected before I accept delivery. The dealers are also much more helpful when they know you are a customer instead if a look and buy mail-order.
You might also check and see if there are any woodworking clubs or organizations in you area.

The American Association of Wood turners has many local chapters.
http://www.woodturner.org/

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,

If you buy used, you will likely recoup all that you spend if you either upgrade later, or stop the hobby. If you buy new, you will lose 30-50% of your investment if you sell piece by piece or 50-70% if you sell all as a lot.
Seems like the CL sellers around my area don't subscribe to that idea/

One guy is offering a "like new" 2 gallon CH compressor for *only* $90.00.

It's the same one Loews sells new for $79.00 - and the same one that Lowes had marked down to $49.00 at some stores a month ago.
LOL! The guy even had the gall to go to Lowes website and download a picture of it!

A few weeks ago, someone was selling a Chicago bisquit joiner for $90.00 - the same one HF sells new for $39.00.

I gave up on CL pretty much.

[Joe Jensen]

Joe.. Do you remember what you paid for that sears stuff new?

:D

My dad bought the following for $100 in about 1970.
Sears 10" table saw
Atlas/Sears 6" Jointer
Delta lathe
Delta scroll saw

We did all the cope and stick shaping for a complete kitchen with a Sears molding cutter in the table saw. That was a super scary setup, sound like an airplane in the shop.

Later he added a 1/2" arbor Sears shaper. Back then a 1HP router was large. I think the shaper had a 1/2HP motor. We cut the lumber from downed ash and walnut trees on our property. Back then we could have a 10ft 30" diameter log sawn for $45. Dad bought an old 30" 1890s planer that we ran with a wide belt driven by a 45HP gas Wisconson engine.

[Darius Ferlas]

My dad bought the following for $100 in about 1970.
Sears 10" table saw
Atlas/Sears 6" Jointer
Delta lathe
Delta scroll saw

In 1970 $100 was what about $550 is today

[Tony Bilello]

I have to agree with you as far as CL in the Houston, Tx area also.
I often wondered if these people are really getting close to the advertised price. Some of the best deals I see on CL are $500 for a 5 year old machine that currently cost $600 new.

As for refurbishing old equipment, that should depend on your available time, mechanical skills and interests. At that point you have to decide if your hobby will be woodworking or tool refurbishing. Also consider that just because a tool is old that does not make it better and because a tool is new it is not necessarily inferior.

I have owned Delta tools in the past and own new Delta tools now. I have not seen any decline in quality that I hear about on here.

I buy most of my equipment new. If a good deal comes along on a used tool, I will buy it. But not one that has to be repaired. I enjoy building, not fixing. Others enjoy both.

If you really want to know what tools are best, go to a few cabinet shops and talk to the owners. Mainly the same two brand names will keep cropping up. One is competitively priced and the other is somewhat higher but not outrageous. Anyone care to guess what names they might be?

[Bob Slater]

Yes, I worry I am more interested in tool refurbishing than woodworking. The General bandsaw I just bought is really impressing me with the casting quality. What a lump of nicely finished steel. Once I get the new tires and link belt it will be dead smooth.

[David Winer]

You are getting lots of good advice here, even if some of it is contradictory. I suggest this means that there are few absolutes when it comes to selecting equipment.

My initial experience in woodworking was to buy great-sounding Sears power tools. Over the years I had to replace these with more robust equipment. I notice that my really high quality purchases are so much more satisying than the cheaper alternatives—long after I have forgotten what they cost, and after enjoying the benefit of better stuff for a long time.

At the stage I needed a jointer I consulted with a local furniture maker. I had decided to go for a Powermatic, but the issue was six-inch or eight-inch. He strongly advised the larger because of the versatility in the future. Good advice! I’m so glad I took it.

I would like to join the group on this thread that suggests getting the brand that best fits your needs. Brand loyalty has little value.

[Calvin Crutchfield]

Jeff,

I did not take a lot of time to read the responses but I did read your question thoroughly.

I'd like to offer my advice. Keep in mind, I love the machinery, almost as much as the hobby.

Given the euro machines are out of your $ range or simply not desired I would do one of two things.

USED USED USED!

Either find the "newish" model you like and wait for it to come up on craigslist. Let someone else take the depreciation hit. Great deals to be had.

Or ...

Restore old Deltas/PM/Olivers etc . . .. if I were to do it over and with the above criteria, I would search for 40's/50's/60'a Delta/PM gear and restore them. I use the term "restore" loosely here. The hardest part of this will be removing and adding bearings. Bearings them selves are cheap. Everything else is just cleaning and repainting.

Either way, do yourself a favor and take the time to buy used.

The quality you can get for a small fraction of new will make you grin ear to ear when it is done. There truly is a difference in the old and new. I'm thinking being from the MI area, there are lots of choices when it comes to old machinery for sale.

Simply my .02 based on several data points . . . Enjoy the procurement either way you choose!

[Joe Jensen]

Hello,

Seems like the CL sellers around my area don't subscribe to that idea/

One guy is offering a "like new" 2 gallon CH compressor for *only* $90.00.

It's the same one Loews sells new for $79.00 - and the same one that Lowes had marked down to $49.00 at some stores a month ago.
LOL! The guy even had the gall to go to Lowes website and download a picture of it!

A few weeks ago, someone was selling a Chicago bisquit joiner for $90.00 - the same one HF sells new for $39.00.

I gave up on CL pretty much.

There seem to be a lot of sellers on CL that buy stuff on sale and try to resell for more on CL. One has to be patient to buy on CL, and I'm sure a lot depends on where you live. Where ever there was a housing boom, there will be tons of cheap tools. In the past 4 months here in Phx there have been dozens of 3 and 5HP 1 and 3 phase shapers for under $1000. There was even an SCMI T130 shaper that was broken (needed a gear for the raising mechanism) and a 1HP 4 wheel feeder, rusty but only $250. If I had any space I'd have bought and resold. I see the same one on Ebay now with a similar feeder for $3999.

If I knew I was going to stay with WW and I was starting over, and I wanted to build furniture, here is what I'd do. I'd watch for the following used. Set up searches on Ebay for the following within the driving range you can tolerate, and watch Craig's list and the local classifieds every day.

- Used Unisaw with a good fence (I don't care for the Unifence personally) $1000 uni, $1400 PM66
- Used 8" jointer. Most any will be fine, I prefer the older Powermatic, but the newer ones are ok. I sold my nice 1990 PM60 for $700 a couple months ago.
- Used Planer. I see less of the 15-20" planers. I am not budget limited and I still have the PM model 100 12" planer I bought in 1990. I put a Byrd head in a couple of years ago. I see the PM 100 planers about every 3 or for months locally for $500 or so. I see them on ebay for $400-1000 all the time.
- Used 14-20" Drill press. I have a Rockwell from the 50s. It has a 6" stroke and I paid $150 or $175, can't remember
- Used 3HP Delta or PM shaper. (I'm a shaper bigot, I have a router under a table, but no lift or fence system. ($600-800)

Some sample deals - search the Phx CL for shaper, cabinet saw, and jointer. I also have a 14" dewalt RAS, dead accurate 90 degree crosscuts. There is one on CL here for like $500. New from "The Original Saw Company" for like $4500.

Next step up from here is a big one. I upgraded my 8" PM60 jointer with a 60" bed to a 1970 SCMI 12" jointer. I repainted mine, put in new bearings, 3 phase converter, and I put in a Byrd head. I have about $2250 in it. This one has an 84" bed and I am really impressed with the build quality. They don't make the 12" any more, but the same machine in 16" is like $8K. If you live in back east, there are tons of old iron machines that are vastly superior to the new stuff going for really low prices. But, these machines will be 50 years old, and be really large and heavy. My 12" 1970s SCMI jointer is 650lbs, a 12" old iron jointer will be 1200lbs.

If price and space are no object, I have a dream list I'd be happy to share :)

[george wilson]

Years ago,I didn't have room for a woodworking machine room for a few years.I loaned my Dewalt table saw to one of the cabinet shop employees. I did have access to the woodworking machines in Col. Williamsburg anyway.

A super critical,high paying side job came along,a special pair of boxes. The guy who designed them had little idea what he was asking for in terms of difficulty. The 1950's Delta Unisaw we had just wasn't up to the job. I had to go to use my Dewalt table saw instead.

These saws sometimes pop up for sale.I have the floor model,not the direct drive contractor's size saw they also offered. If you ever see one for sale in decent shape,I recommend snapping it up. But,you have to get all the blades bored out to 3/4",and it's not a simple job of drilling them out,lest you get off center. The saw plate is probably too hard,anyway. You can get Forrest to supply special hole sizes. I bore my own out,but you have to have the equipment.

Once you do get one of these saws,it will be found to run super smooth,much smoother than anything else I've ever tried. And,the stock fence does not move at all when you lock it. This is a 10" saw.

[Rick Fisher]

My dad bought the following for $100 in about 1970.
Sears 10" table saw
Atlas/Sears 6" Jointer
Delta lathe
Delta scroll saw

We did all the cope and stick shaping for a complete kitchen with a Sears molding cutter in the table saw. That was a super scary setup, sound like an airplane in the shop.

Later he added a 1/2" arbor Sears shaper. Back then a 1HP router was large. I think the shaper had a 1/2HP motor. We cut the lumber from downed ash and walnut trees on our property. Back then we could have a 10ft 30" diameter log sawn for $45. Dad bought an old 30" 1890s planer that we ran with a wide belt driven by a 45HP gas Wisconson engine.

Oh your dad bought them.. I didnt get that from the first post.. :D

You didnt take the bait ..

[Heather Thompson]

Jeff,

I have read every post to this thread, own many very nice tools myself, lust over many (both power and handtools). My recommendation would be to view this thread http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=102226 , read it completely and then view his home page. This is the link to his home page, http://www.makerofshaker.com/wjt/Home.html, now click on the construction tab to the piece you just saw, play the slide show and pay particular attention to the tools in his shop, it is a humbling experience! Tools do not make the piece, the craftsman/woman are the most important tool, the desire is critical.

Heather

PS Do check out his body of work, truely a gifted craftsman.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

were I looking for a conventional TS I'd be looking at General over any other maker of Single Phase equipment. Same with their bench Mortiser.

Often a manufacturer won't be Aces in everything.

For example my Felder Rep told me not to get a Felder Band saw. And as it regards lathes - - there's contenders that do different things differently.

[Joe Jensen]

were I looking for a conventional TS I'd be looking at General over any other maker of Single Phase equipment. Same with their bench Mortiser.

Often a manufacturer won't be Aces in everything.

For example my Felder Rep told me not to get a Felder Band saw. And as it regards lathes - - there's contenders that do different things differently.

General (made in Canada are great) but General International not so great. General is 2-4X the price of General International new.

[Hank Moreman]

I agree with the others it will depend on the tool. Some of the ones that I like that I have are...

Jet 18" 1 3/4 hp bandsaw- absolutely my pride and joy, good price and a level of performance that can't be beat. However, my first bandsaw was a 14" Delta and I liked it but outgrew it

Rigid 12" (or 13") planer- its my first one and I got it used for a bargain, it has taken my stupidity and inability to use it correctly very well

Hitachi 10" compound miter slide saw- this one is my workhorse and I couldn't get along without it (in fact I have 2)

Hitachi sander (10" orbital and 4"x36" belt)- I'm partial to hitachi and this is a good tool, but it seems like one that is hard to mess up

I have always had decent luck with Delta tools when buying blind, but in those type of situations I am trying to save money until I know what needs to be valuable with a tool

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Jeff,

I have read every post to this thread, own many very nice tools myself, lust over many (both power and handtools). My recommendation would be to view this thread http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=102226 , read it completely and then view his home page. This is the link to his home page, http://www.makerofshaker.com/wjt/Home.htmld (http://www.makerofshaker.com/wjt/Home.htmld), now click on the construction tab to the piece you just saw, play the slide show and pay particular attention to the tools in his shop, it is a humbling experience! Tools do not make the piece, the craftsman/woman are the most important tool, the desire is critical.

Heather

PS Do check out his body of work, truely a gifted craftsman.

Heather, can you check that homepage link? I can't get it to work.

[Heather Thompson]

Heather, can you check that homepage link? I can't get it to work.

Steve,

Sorry about that, this should work. http://www.makerofshaker.com/wjt/Home.html
Also, if you click on a members name, if they have a homepage it will be listed in their information.

Heather