Attaching Bench Top To Base

[Jim Eller]

The bench top is 25"x96"x2.75" and made of laminated ash.

Now it time to think about how to attached the top to the base.

The base will have four legs coplanar with the sides of the bench and no apron. That will leave the top of four 3"x4.5" legs to attach to.

I would like to have the top removable so I really do not want to do a mortise and tenon glue up although that is probably the preferred method.

So what are your suggestions to attach the top to the base and minimize racking? I'm old, so pictures would be nice:)

Thanks for any advise you can share.

Jim

[Tom Cross]

My bench top is 3" x 24" x 96", hard maple, Holtzapffel design, Woodworking Magazine, issue #8, slightly modified. I added a top stretcher between each pair of legs and used lag bolts through the top stretchers, two per stretcher to mount it to the top. One hole is oversized to allow for top movement. It works very well and is easily taken apart. I have taken a bunch of photos and will post them later today.

[Jim Eller]

Thanks Tom. I'll be looking forward to the pictures.

I was trying to avoid a top stretcher so that it would not interfere with any clamping. But, maybe that is not valid concern.

Jim

[Tom Cross]

The top stretcher is between each pair of legs and does not interfere with clamping. See the pirctures below:

[Mark Boyette]

don't scratch it...

[Alan Schwabacher]

If you look at Chris Schwarz's book on workbenches, the chapter on making them knockdown is missing. But he wrote it and posted it on the lost art press website so you can download it for free.

I hope it's OK to post the link here:
http://www.lostartpress.com/product/3513e08a-2f07-4616-8f2f-74017f296377.aspx

Scroll down below the description to find links to the free chapters.

[Pat Germain]

You can use a drawbore to attach the top. I did this with my workbench.

Basically, you use a large mortise and tenon with no glue. You just drill a hole through both, twist in a dowel with the end whittled down, then cut off the excess.

When you want to remove the top, you just drill out the dowels.

[Jeff Hallam]

The top is most likely heavy enough that you aren't worried about it lifting. So what about drilling a hole in the top of each leg and inserting a dowel. Drill corresponding holes in the bottom of the bench and she should sit on top just fine. I would chamfer the top of the dowels a little so that they find the bench top holes easier. The real thing you are eliminating is lateral movement (i.e. when planing) and the dowels should do that no problem.

[Jim Eller]

Thanks to all for the input.

Tom - Is the leg connected to the stretcher with mortise and tenon? With a dowel? Thanks for the pics. And how come the bench is so clean?? Every horizontal surface I have, has something on it.:)

Alan - Thanks for the link. Good reading.

Jim

[John Thompson]

Jeff touched on my method I learned from Ian Kirby. Over the last 37 years I have built 24 benches and the last five I used "bullet dowels" as mentioned by Jeff. You should use an end stretcher as mentioned to re-inforce and counter rack.

But.. you can drill a hole 3/4" or 1" in the center of the four top post. Glue a corresponding dowel in the hole and let it stand proud 3/4"-1". Drill corresponding holes in the bottom of the table. Round the exposed dowel off at the top so it looks like a bullet and slightly sand the sides of the dowel so the dowel glides into the hole.

Just sit the top down (two of you) onto the dowels and trust me.. gravity will keep it down. That's a lot of weight in that top and if you properly made the base.. it will not rack nor will the top come off until you and a freind decide to lift it off.

Sarge..

[Tom Adger]

Jim, attached are several photos of the workbench I just finished. The top to base is mortise and tenon. There is no gluing. The weight of the top is enough to keep it in place.

[Jim Eller]

Thanks Tom.

What vise is that you have on the end of the bench?

Jim

[Tom Cross]

The leg is connected to the stretcher with draw bored mortise and tenon joint.

For this bench, I decided to eliminate the tool tray. The tray was always cluttered with lots of junk. Now I hang everything up above the bench and put the tools back as I work. I spend more time working and less time hunting for tools.

[Randal Stevenson]

2.75" thick. How far apart are your legs? How far apart are your holes for the benchdogs? I am wondering if you could just use short dowels, and shorter bench dogs in those holes? If the top gets damaged, you just flip it then.

[Jim Eller]

Randal,

I am just in the process of starting the base. I know the legs on one end will be at least 20" in from the edge because of the vise. The other end is yet to be determined.

Thanks,
Jim

[Tom Adger]

Jim, as I mention to you in my email, the blue vise is an Anant #52 1/2. You said in your last post that you are going to bring the legs in 20" to clear the vise. This is not necessary if you allow enough clearance in placing the end top stretcher. My top is 2 1/2" thick. The stretcher is
5 1/2" down from the bottom of the top after the tenons are seated in the mortises. There is a 1 1/2" thick spacer to mount the vise. There is about 3/4" clearance between the long quick release bar, and the top spacer. If you go to the Highlands Woodworking website, you can download the mounting instructions for the Anant vise. This will be helpful to you even if you buy a different brand.

[Tom Cross]

Here's a PDF of the Holtzapffel-style bench and base by Chris Schwarz:

[Chris Friesen]

My bench top is 3" x 24" x 96", hard maple, Holtzapffel design, Woodworking Magazine, issue #8, slightly modified. I added a top stretcher between each pair of legs and used lag bolts through the top stretchers, two per stretcher to mount it to the top. One hole is oversized to allow for top movement.

I made a similar bench, but a foot shorter. On mine the top stretcher is on top of the legs, that way if the stretcher shrinks due to moisture loss the top will still rest on a single surface.

Just to clarify, the elongated hole goes at the back so that the front of the bench stays coplanar with the legs.