Tie-Breaker Needed (Rip/Glue)

[Jerry Olexa]

I have posted this on another WW forum (guilt!) but w almost evenly divided (50/50)opinions!! Situation is I'm working on a bed headboard that calls for 8" wide by approx 5 ft. long bottom rail . Above this rail will be several raised panels which will be topped by an arched top rail. I have a 10' wide piece of Cherry proper length and usually, anything more than 5"wide, I rip and glue together to prevent later warpage, wood movement, etc. This is a pretty important piece and seems a shame to rip a nicely grained, flat, straight piece into 2 smaller pieces and glue back. What do you guys think? I value your ideas!! Thanks Jerry:confused:

[Daniel Rabinovitz]

Jerry
IMHO
Make a tenon one both ends and leave it "whole", don't cut it.
Mortice the vertical end posts.
Daniel :rolleyes:

[Herb Blair]

If it were mine, I wouldn't rip it up, I would use it as is.
I would think back to the old craftsmen.. I don't think that they would rip it and reglue. They used wide boards for a lot of furniture that is still around today....an valuable!!!

[Jim Becker]

If the board is stable, ripping it will only release any internal tension and possible require you to mill off even more. I would never rip a wide board down unless it's the only way to get it flat... If you are uncomfortable with a wide tenon relative to wood movement, just make two smaller ones.

[Todd Burch]

Jerry, ask yourself these questions:

1) Is the board warping/cupping/bowing now?
2) What's the moisture content of the board?
3) Does there appear to be any reaction wood or does the pith appear to be in the board?

If all the above checks are OK, why create work for yourself? Wood properly cut, properly dried, properly stored and handled, and properly finished should remain flat forever.

So, I'm not telling you to rip and reglue or leave it as is. I'm suggesting you apply these principles and make the decision for yourself!

[Dennis Peacock]

I agree with Daniel, Todd, Jim and Herb.....

If the wood is in great shape, not already twisting, warping and such and is dry enough to be called furniture ready.....don't cut it up and reglue....use good mortise and tenon joinery and will should be fine for years to come.

[Howard Acheson]

Wide boards carry a premium cost if you try to buy them. Never cut a wide board to "prevent warpage". Ripping a board never prevents warpage. It just makes for a wavy board. I have never known a top quality woodworker who advocated ripping wide boards.

If the board is stable now, there is no reason to think it will later warp.

The best woodworker cherish wide boards and use them on the best projects.

You see lots of cheap furniture where narrow boards are used for panels. The reason for this is not to prevent warpage but because narrow boards are cheaper.

[Jerry Olexa]

Gentlemen: Thank you. Consensus clearly is "don't rip" and I won't. I value the beauty of the board and will M&T it to the posts. Even though some of my old WW books say anything over 5" or 6" rip and glue, I value your opinions more!! You confirmed what I hoped was true! Thanks again to all!! Jerry

[Chris DeHut]

Hi Jerry,

I never believed in the "Rip wide boards to prevent cupping" theory. After looking at many antiques, and projects I have made over the years, I believe the primary cause of cupping and warping after construction (barring the obvious - bad moisture content etc.), is when the two faces are not finished the same. This is most prevelant in tops of dressers, tables and so on.

When a wide board is finished only on one face, the opposite face takes on and expels the moisture faster than the finished face. This can cause all sorts of problems with dimensional stability.

Stick with the wide board and finish both faces.

Chris

[Jerry Olexa]

Thanks Chris! Good advice. I'll finish both sides.:)