A question for veneering experts

[Dave Malen]

Hi,
I know it is standard to veneer both sides of a board to keep it from distorting. However - do you think I could get away with not doing two sides in this situation. I'm using 3/8 ths thick baltic birch plywood for the bottom of a NK drawer (approx 17 by 30). I've veneered thirtysecond of an inch thick maple veneer to one side of the ply. Do you think I have to bother with the second side?
Thanks for your input,
Dave

[Paul Atkins]

That's a pretty thick veneer which seems to me would give you more problems than one of those paper thin jobs. Both sides is better - but you could use 'junk' veneer like on some of the plywood I've gotten----

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Dave, Paul is probably right, but...

I have veneered one side of ply and had no warpage, but I may have just been lucky. Can you do a test run?

[Dave Malen]

Dave, Paul is probably right, but...

I have veneered one side of ply and had no warpage, but I may have just been lucky. Can you do a test run?

Steve- I guess I could let it sit for a few days and see what it does. Better to do that then to assemble it and then regret that.

Thanks,
Dave

[Chris Padilla]

Here is what I found:

2 5/8" thick sandwich/panel of MDF glued together to get 1.25"
1 1/16" thick walnut veneer bookmatched

After veneering only one side, the panel (17" x 48") bowed towards the veneer ~1/8". I was very surprised. After sitting a day or two, the panel relaxed quite a bit but was still slightly bowed.

So, YES, I would always veneer both sides but if you have time to wait after veneering, you will know for sure if you need to.

Since you are doing plywood, odds are decent it won't bow due to cross-grain. MDF has no grain so the wet (by glue) veneer easily pulled it out of shape until the glue dried out good and the moisture content returned to normal but it still left a slight bow.

[Brian Peters]

It may not cup/bow up if you only do one side but that's a chance that is silly to take. Especially when veneer backer is dirt cheap and only takes another few minutes to put on.

[Tony Bilello]

Chris, how come you didnt use contact cement or epoxy?
I ask out of ignorance because that is what I have done in the past, but I generally dont do much veneer work.

[Chris Padilla]

Tony,

I used this veneer glue. (http://www.veneersupplies.com/product_info.php?cPath=86_40&products_id=1319)

Epoxy would be awfully expensive and I don't think contact cement would be appropriate nor last over time for my Tansu (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=92396) project. So far, this glue is working out extremely well. :)

[Tony Bilello]

Thanks for the link.
I'll save it in my file in case I do some major veneering.
I'm sure you will keep us posted on your Tansu project.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Tony,

I used this veneer glue. (http://www.veneersupplies.com/product_info.php?cPath=86_40&products_id=1319)

Epoxy would be awfully expensive and I don't think contact cement would be appropriate nor last over time for my Tansu (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=92396) project. So far, this glue is working out extremely well. :)


Thats the stuff I use too. Well, not the extra dark, but the lighter stuff. Excellent glue. It does have a shelf life though.

[Dave Malen]

Well it hasn't cupped yet. Maybe like Chris said its ply not MDF. Next problem the grain of the ply telegraphed through. I thought the veneer was so thick I could sand it out. Of course I sanded through. I should know better:mad:. I'm starting over with 1/4 inch ply and I will apply 1/16 veneers to front and back.With "Veneer" that thick I can sand, or hand plane without problems.
Oh well slow and steady wins the race:)


BTW another good glue to use is Unibond 800. It's a 2 part resin glue. So if you use water base finish there is less tendency for it to lift up at seams.

Dave