reducing gloss of poly fnish

[Paul Heagen]

I need to take down the gloss of a poly finish on a teak table I built. I already wet sanded the surface with 600 paper, then followed with a dry rub with 0000 steel wool, so it is now in the "soft sheen" category. But I need to get it about to a matte finish to match some chairs that have only an oil finish.

Should I just move to coarser steel wool -- 000 or 00 -- or instead go with 320-400 wet/dry?

Thanks for any help.

[Mark Singer]

You can go over it with a matte poly

[Paul Heagen]

Good suggestion, but I want to avoid any more coats at this point. We have a new grandchild in the house and my wife and others are freaking out that I am poisoning his little body with fumes.

I am hoping I can abrade it to the matte level.

[Tony Falotico]

Okay Paul, you know how it works around here ---- You built it :) .... You spoke of it ;) ........... Where are the PICTURES ??

A picture is worth a thousand coats of poly :confused: (or something like that)

[Dennis Peacock]

Okay Paul, you know how it works around here ---- You built it :) .... You spoke of it ;) ........... Where are the PICTURES ??

A picture is worth a thousand coats of poly :confused: (or something like that)

I'm whi-choo Tony. Must post PICS!!! ;)

Paul, you can try 0000 steel wool to abrade the surface. It's a lot easier to dull a gloss finish than trying to gloss up a flat or matte surface! :)

[Paul Heagen]

Thought I could away with just s verbal. Dunned again!

OK, these photos will give you an idea of the current sheen using 0000 steel wool. I would like to get it down to the almost matte finish you see in the chairs in the last photo.

Incidentally, no grief please on the space between the halves of the table (it has a leaf). i have not yet reinstalled the hardware that pulls the two halves together. It does fit tightly. Promise. I'll even post pics!

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Paul.....I like the design and the craftsmanship!

[Paul Heagen]

I build the wine rack to match as well, and you can see if I have gloss to work off of that also.

[Paul Heagen]

Paul.....I like the design and the craftsmanship!

She saw a picture of a similar table in a catalog and said, "Gee, honey, could you build this for MEEEE?" The table she saw was made of metal and glass, so it was an engineering challenge to float the top on the "spider legs." Then she asked if I could make it so it would open and have a leaf in it.

No problem, dear....
(If only she knew what foreigh language I was using the whole time in the shop to get that additional little feature figured out!

[Daniel Rabinovitz]

Paul
Since I used water base poly, am I allowed to suggest:
Gray or maroon Scotch Bright Pads; I would suggest the maroon - it cuts faster. And you can control the amount of pressure you exert on the pad.
Daniel ;)

Thought I'd just edit the original reply.

[Paul Heagen]

Paul
Since I used water base poly, am I allowed to suggest:
Gray or maroon scrub pads (I can't think of their offical title) I would suggest the maroon - it cuts faster. And you can control the amount of pressure you exert on the pad.
Daniel ;)

I suspect you are referring to Scotch-Brite pads. I am using urethane poly, but I imagine that would work with either water or poly.

I am really wishing, of course, that I had done a test piece. I'll start with whatever pad seems to be the finer one and probably do a section of the leaf. we always use a table cloth when the table is extended for guests, so if I screw up, I can hide it most of the time.

Thanks.

[Jason Roehl]

I guess you could call that project, "SPEC-TEAK-ULAR!"

:D