plywood nailing and glue

[ron hokenson]

What size(guage) nails should I use when nailing and gluing 3/4" to 3/4" plywood ? What size(guage) nails should I use on building the drawers which will have 1/2" plywood ?

Thanks in advance, ron

[Mikail Khan]

I would use 15 or 16 gauge finish nails for 3/4" ply and 18 gauge brads for the drawers.

MK

[Lee Schierer]

I would suggest using a strong wood joint such as locking rabbet joint, dovetail or finger joint and not use the nails. Here are my reasons:
1.The current quality of most plywoods is such that most will split if a nail is driven into them.
2. Nails provide limited holding ability.
3. Good joints and glue will be strong enough on their own for most applications.

[Jim Kountz]

I would suggest using a strong wood joint such as locking rabbet joint, dovetail or finger joint and not use the nails. Here are my reasons:
1.The current quality of most plywoods is such that most will split if a nail is driven into them.
2. Nails provide limited holding ability.
3. Good joints and glue will be strong enough on their own for most applications.

Lee makes a good point, at the very least if you're set on nailing it be sure just for kicks and giggles that you glue it well also.
15 or 16 ga for the 3/4" and 18 ga for the 1/2"
But I would go with a good method of joinery over nails myself.

[Prashun Patel]

For drawers, you'll be nailing into the endgrain of one of the pieces. That'll have almost no holding power. It'll be used at best as a clamp while the glue dries. The butt joint won't be that strong.

I also suggest rabbets(better) or dados(even better) if yr not up for making box joints. If yr intent on butt joints, then I'd either plug them with dowels or coarse-thread screws (w/ predrilled pilots)

The other thing you'd discover quickly (DAMHIKT) is it's really hard to keep reasonable length nails from blowing out the sides whether yr gunning them or doing it by hand. You can 'guide' the nail by pre-drilling and hand pounding, but now you're at the difficulty of screws...

[keith ouellette]

for the drawers I used 18 gauge and glue with half inch cabinet grade plywood. the parts were rabbited to fit together, glued, clamped and then nailed so I could remove the clamps.

It was done on some laundry room draws that get a lot of use. I built it more than a year ago ( showed pics then) and its held together perfectly. I know a year isn't very long but I am sure it won't fail.

I almost forgot. I would only use 1+1/4 or maybe 1+1/2 in length. 18 gauge have a habit of changing direction and coming out the side because they are so thin.

[Bill Huber]

I am with Lee and Jim on this one....

I think with the glues we have today that brads are really not needed. I think that a good tight fitting joint and good glue will do great.

All the drawers that I have made I have just made good joints. glued and clamp them up and they do fine. I do believe that a good joint is the clue to a good glue job.

[ron hokenson]

Thanks for the ideas. I will use tightbond 111 and make rabbits in the front and a dado in the back. One question though.....I will be using a dado for the bottom and am considering 1/4" masonite. What do you think of this or should I stay with plywood ? Also, do I need to glue the bottom or can I just slip it in the slot ?

...ron

[Bill Huber]

Thanks for the ideas. I will use tightbond 111 and make rabbits in the front and a dado in the back. One question though.....I will be using a dado for the bottom and am considering 1/4" masonite. What do you think of this or should I stay with plywood ? Also, do I need to glue the bottom or can I just slip it in the slot ?

...ron

I used Masonite on my shop drawers and it is doing fine. I put it in a dado 1/4" up from the bottom. My shop drawers are 20x20 and I have a lot of weight in them and have no problems at all. I did glue the Masonite in on both sides.

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