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View Full Version : Bedrock 605 - What Have I Got? (pics)



scott spencer
02-19-2009, 5:31 PM
Hi all - I acquired this old Bedrock 605 and am wondering whether it's a parts plane, user, or buried treasure.

It obviously has a clean break at the tote that I believe can be fixed. The screw at the front of the tote isn't original. There are some fine paint splatters all over the top side. There's plenty of rust, but the bottom or blade are not pitted, Japanning looks to be ~ 50%...maybe less if the loose stuff is removed. The blade has the V-logo, "STANLEY, NEW BRITAIN, CONN, USA". The frog has two unthreaded T-bolts that are held in place by two threaded screws that come in on each side of the frog adjuster screw (have never seen that). There are no markings on the brass adjustment nut. There is a raised ring at the front of the body, but the knob doesn't seem to fit inside it too well. Lever cap says "Bedrock". Everything seems to work fine.

Raised lettering on the body is as follows:
Front:
- "BEDROCK"

Behind the frog:
- "PATD"
- "APR2-95"
- "APR19.10"

At the rear:
- "No 605"

The usual Bailey typing hints don't seem to apply 100% to the Bedrock, so I'm wondering if any of you folks can tell me more, what's it's approximate value is, and if it's worth fixing up?

Thanks in advance for taking the time to share your thoughts on this.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/Planes/BR605001.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/Planes/BR605002.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/Planes/BR605003.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/Planes/BR605004.jpg

Justin Green
02-19-2009, 5:52 PM
It's definitely worth derusting and cleaning. A serious collector can tell you what to do at that point. I'd probably sharpen the blade and use it, as with that much rust there's likely some pitting there that might offend collectors but wouldn't hurt performance once the plane's tuned. Take some more pictures when it's cleaned up!

David Gilbert
02-19-2009, 5:52 PM
Scott, if you would like to see one in person, give me a call. I will only be at work through next Thursday AM..... Yippee!!! You know what I mean.

I have one that is a type 14 (1929 - 1930) (I think). Mine is in good (at least usable) condition.

You can also call me at home since I am in the book. It's DP Gilbert on Hightower Way.

Cheers,

Joe Cunningham
02-19-2009, 6:52 PM
There is a separate typing for bedrocks.

http://www.antique-used-tools.com/brtypes.htm

Maybe a bedrock type 6?, 1914-1918 Based on the square sides, V logo, and bedrock on the lever cap.

Douglas Brummett
02-19-2009, 7:12 PM
Pretty crusty, but I have brought back worse. The blade may be better off left behind. I am a fan of Hock blades and chip breakers, so I wouldn't even mess with a blade that rust pitted. The body and parts look like a bit of evapo-rust or electrolysis would clean it up well. Give it a shot and let us know how it turns out.

scott spencer
02-19-2009, 7:21 PM
Thanks for the replies everyone. Great info.

Joe - That's a great link...it does appear to be Type 6"B"...1914-1918.

Dave - Thanks for the offer, I may very well take you up on it.

Sounds like it's worth salvaging, and I'm pleased to find out it's 91-95 years old. I'll definitely post some pics, but be forewarned, it may be several weeks....in addition for waiting for the temps to go up above freezing, gotta finish the dining room painting! :rolleyes:

Alan DuBoff
02-19-2009, 8:04 PM
He turns, he moves, and shoots...he scores!

Scott,

Any of the bedrocks are nice, and more costly than the bailiys. Even though a #5 is common, it's a bedrock so is a good plane.

That doesn't look bad at all, that looks like it will clean up really nice.

Value wise it's probably worth $150 cleaned up, maybe $175, is my guess...but I'm not a big bedrock expert, don't own any. I have not seen any reasonably priced. I have common planes but not multiples like some guys go overboard with. I have more specialty planes, but do have a few Baily in common sizes (3,4,5,8). The 3 and 5 were given to me as galootaclaus gifts, a few years go (a gift exchange on the oldtools list during the holiday season).

Nice score!

Gary Benson
02-19-2009, 9:56 PM
I might get some heat for this, but I would go for the full restoration. I agree that I would use a Lie-Nielsen or Hock replacement blade. Check out Johnny Kleso's method at www.rexmill.com. You will have a great plane when you are done. I have "restored" 5 different bedrocks, starting in various unuseable states, all are now very good functional planes.

Good find, good luck,

Gary

Bill Houghton
02-19-2009, 10:41 PM
The frog has two unthreaded T-bolts that are held in place by two threaded screws that come in on each side of the frog adjuster screw (have never seen that).

That's the very thing that makes the Bedrocks different. The idea is that you can adjust the mouth opening without taking the iron off (as you must do with the regular Bailey planes).

Although a lot of people talk about needing to use special glues for the rosewood handles, I've fixed several with just regular yellow PVA glue. If you want to be careful, you could rub the mating surfaces down with acetone before gluing. Those trigger-tighten bar clamps with the plastic heads are perfect for this - the base and top of the tote aren't quite parallel, and the soft plastic pads on the heads of the clamps will grip and flex enough to give you good clamping.

Dominic Greco
02-20-2009, 8:46 AM
I picked up a Bedrock 605 for $20 in "somewhat" similar condition at a local flea market. I cleaned it up and made a new tote and knob for it. Now it's one of my users.
Before:
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z287/DominicGreco/605and60-1.jpg
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z287/DominicGreco/605and60.jpg

After:
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z287/DominicGreco/605withcherrytote1.jpg
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z287/DominicGreco/605Sole.jpg

Like others have mentioned, I highly recommend using Evaporust.

Joe Cunningham
02-20-2009, 8:53 AM
:eek: That is one nice user Dominic. I think I need to do a little rusting hunting and buy some evaporust (and learn how to turn).

Justin Green
02-20-2009, 8:57 AM
I second the evaporust. Works really well.

Tony Sade
02-20-2009, 9:20 AM
Here's my 605 before and after. Sorry the before pic is so bad-it's the one taken right from eBay since I didn't take one myself when I first received the pile of rust. I stripped the whole thing and used the Pontypool stuff for the jappanning. Not as nice as Dom's job, but mine cleaned up pretty nicely and is a fine worker.

scott spencer
02-20-2009, 9:26 AM
Well, now I'm encouraged and inspired! Those 605s both look great. I've gotten decent results cleaning up a couple of my Millers Falls and Record planes, but none were in quite as bad shape as the 605. I'm not opposed at all to a total restoration. Retaining "collector's value" is fine, but isn't really my primary objective, though I'd prefer not to destroy it! ;)

Thanks everyone!

David Keller NC
02-20-2009, 9:49 AM
Scott - This is one case where I'd vote for full restoration. That will destroy its collector's value, but in the shape you bought it in, it doesn't have all that much collector's value anyway. But as a user, it will bring in a price in the range that Alan cited, which definitely puts it into the category of "nice plane".

BTW - If you don't want to spend the $$ on Evaporust - citric acid works extremely well and won't hurt the japanning. And a small packet from a brewer supply store is all that you need - perhaps $5. Just dissolve about a tablespoon in a couple of quarts of tap water, and immerse the steel parts in it for 6-12 hours.