Newbie Needs Help Picking Out L-N Block Plane

[Dan Sink]

As my first project I'm building a simple box. It requires a block plane and its a good excuse to buy my first plane. After reading this and other forums and on-line reviews, it seems clear that its worth the money to buy a Lie Nielsen plane instead of getting something less expensive and paying to replace it later. I have two questions about which L-N plane to buy and was hoping for some guidance.

1. There is an L-N block plane that costs $95 (the 102 or 103), and there is an adjustable mouth one that costs $165 (the 9-1/2 or 60-1/2). Should I spend the $70 to get the adjustable mouth or will the less expensive one suffice? Of course we'd all like to get the best, most versatile tool possible every time. But $70 is real money to me. The trade off of getting the more expensive plane would be that my next tool purchase or the purchase of materials for my next project will have to wait for a while. The list of tools I'd like to get is long, and if the $70 could be better spent elsewhere (like going towards nice chisels), I'd prefer to do that. On the other hand, if I'm just going to be wishing I'd ponied up the $70 everytime I use the less expensive plane than its probably worth spending the extra money.

2. My second question is more simple. Low angle v. standard angle. If you were buying your first block plane, and likely only block plane for at least a few years, which would you get?

Thanks in advance for your responses.

[Alex Shanku]

I would get a low angle adjustable mouth as my first block plane.

I would also post this in the Neander forum, too.

[Mike Henderson]

I have the LN 60 1/2 and the 102. I mostly use the 102.

I'd get a low angle to start.

Mike

[Jim Becker]

My first was the low-angle, adjustable mouth block plane. Highly recommended, either from L-N or L-V.

[Brian Kent]

I have and use the 102. It was my first high-quality plane and became the example of how the restored and home-made planes should behave.

I would recommend you buy the 102. If not then yes, a low angle because it is better on end grain.

Then as your needs diversify, look into making a couple of Krenov-style wooden planes. You can get Hock blades specifically for this task or rescue a blade from an old transitional plane.

[Rob Luter]

I'd go with the adjustable mouth low angle and pick up an extra blade. These are "bevel up" so you can sharpen a higher angle on the spare for use when that makes sense. You can probably find a lower priced plane that won't be as pretty but will work just as well. I have an older Stanley 60 1/2 and a really old Stanley #65 that's a little larger. Both are in fine shape, work great, and I have less than $80 tied up in the two combined. The 60 1/2 planes are pretty common. There are 14 on "The Auction Site" as of this morning. The #65 are a bit harder to come by.

[Ben Davis]

Veritas/Lee-Valley makes a nice set of block planes as well. I wouldn't rule those off the list if you are in the markey for a high quality plane.

[Andy Howard]

Dan,

I don't know if you have ever handled these planes in person, but the 102/103 and the 9 1/2 - 60 1/2 planes are significantly different in size. That is what is making up the big price difference, not the adjustable mouth.

The 102/103 series is 5.25 inches long, and has a 1.25" wide iron.

The 9 1/2 / 60 1/2 series is 6.25 inches long, and has a 1.375" wide iron.

All of them are great planes. I would definitely go with a low-angle, either the 102, or the 60.5.

I actually went with the 60 1/2 R (rabbet) plane. I figured that it could do all of the jobs a standard block plane could do, plus the extra functionality that a rabbet plane gives you. I haven't been disappointed with it, and it is my go to block plane.

Hope this helps some.
Andy

[John Schreiber]

I have the Lie-Nielsen 60 1/2 block plane and aside from my router and workbench, it is my most expensive tool. It is truly a pleasure to use and it is without a doubt the highest quality of any tool I own (maybe the highest quality of anything I own). I'm sure other items from Lie-Nielsen are equal in quality, but I just love my 60 1/2.

I would also look at the Veritas line from Lee Valley. Quality is just as good and design is more interesting.

[John Dykes]

I actually went with the 60 1/2 R (rabbet) plane. I figured that it could do all of the jobs a standard block plane could do, plus the extra functionality that a rabbet plane gives you. I haven't been disappointed with it, and it is my go to block plane.

I would give some consideration to this... I have the LN LA adjustable mouth plane. Certainly a fine tool, but I don't use it that much. For whatever reason, it seems like I reach for my LV large shoulder plane as it can work up against shoulders and in rabbets. The rabbet block would be handy....

[Mark Roderick]

Low angle, adjustable mouth block plane from L-N. It was my very first plane, it opened up the whole world of hand planing for me, and I use it constantly. You will NEVER regret that purchase.

[Dan Sink]

Dan,

I don't know if you have ever handled these planes in person, but the 102/103 and the 9 1/2 - 60 1/2 planes are significantly different in size. That is what is making up the big price difference, not the adjustable mouth.

The 102/103 series is 5.25 inches long, and has a 1.25" wide iron.

The 9 1/2 / 60 1/2 series is 6.25 inches long, and has a 1.375" wide iron.

All of them are great planes. I would definitely go with a low-angle, either the 102, or the 60.5.

I actually went with the 60 1/2 R (rabbet) plane. I figured that it could do all of the jobs a standard block plane could do, plus the extra functionality that a rabbet plane gives you. I haven't been disappointed with it, and it is my go to block plane.

Hope this helps some.
Andy


Andy - thanks for the tip, that is great advice. I'm leaning towards buying the rabbet now as your logic seems sound. I've never held these planes, I've only seen them on the Internet. I'm trying to maximize my dollars by getting the most versatile tools I can and I really like your suggestion. I hadn't made the connection on size to dollars. I thought it was just the adjustable mouth feature. Thanks for pointing that out.

Thanks to everyone for all of the great input.

[David Keller NC]

Dan - I ahve (and use) all of these planes - the L-N 60 series standard angle, low angle, and rabbet block planes, and the 102 and 103. I've also had the Lee Valley standard block plane (the $145 one).

I sold the Lee Valley because I liked the way the Lie-Nielsen worked (I did not like the Norris-Style adjuster mechanism in the Lee Valley). But that's just one man's opinion - Lee Valley certainly has very loyal adherents. Both companies make vastly superior block planes to the Stanleys (both the antiques and the modern junk). I've never tried the new, premium Lee Valley, and it sure looks tempting.

Back to the Lie-Nielsen. If all you intend to do is build small stuff like boxes and picture frames, I would get the 103 (I believe that's the low-angle version). It fits that scale of work, though the machining is not as nice as the 60 series, IMO.

Buy the 60 series low-angle if you intend to gravitate toward larger, furniture-type projects with harder cabinet woods. The sole length helps greatly when planing down a long edge on a door to make it fit just right, and the extra weight really helps when paring the ends of dovetails on a drawer.

And, the best part is, you can sell it for at least 80% what you paid for it on fleabay if yo decide you don't like it (but I see very few on e-bay - I get the feeling most owners don't want to part with it (I certainly woudn't).

Just my $0.02.

[Dan Sink]

Dan - I ahve (and use) all of these planes - the L-N 60 series standard angle, low angle, and rabbet block planes, and the 102 and 103. I've also had the Lee Valley standard block plane (the $145 one).

I sold the Lee Valley because I liked the way the Lie-Nielsen worked (I did not like the Norris-Style adjuster mechanism in the Lee Valley). But that's just one man's opinion - Lee Valley certainly has very loyal adherents. Both companies make vastly superior block planes to the Stanleys (both the antiques and the modern junk). I've never tried the new, premium Lee Valley, and it sure looks tempting.

Back to the Lie-Nielsen. If all you intend to do is build small stuff like boxes and picture frames, I would get the 103 (I believe that's the low-angle version). It fits that scale of work, though the machining is not as nice as the 60 series, IMO.

Buy the 60 series low-angle if you intend to gravitate toward larger, furniture-type projects with harder cabinet woods. The sole length helps greatly when planing down a long edge on a door to make it fit just right, and the extra weight really helps when paring the ends of dovetails on a drawer.

And, the best part is, you can sell it for at least 80% what you paid for it on fleabay if yo decide you don't like it (but I see very few on e-bay - I get the feeling most owners don't want to part with it (I certainly woudn't).

Just my $0.02.


David - thanks for the input. I do want to eventually gravitate to furniture projects, but I'm trying to avoid the mistake of taking on projects I don't have the skills for right off the bat. But long term goal is furniture. What do you think about the idea of getting the 60-1/2R as a first plane instead of the 60-1/2?

[Eric Brown]

I own and use Stanley, L-N and L-V block planes. They will all work. However, don't kid yourself if you find a cheap used one and you have no experience tuning one up. To do so correctly, you will need to learn how, either books or websites. You will need cleaning supplys, what depends on the tools condition. You also stand a chance of buying something broken.

I suggest you find someone who will show you some tools and let you play with them, to get a feel and make a better decision. Your safest bet is to buy new from L-N or L-V as they will be tuned up and fully ready to use except for final blade honing. This means that you must also get a way to sharpen along with your first plane.
It's extra cost, but cannot be avoided. You simply cannot do good work with dull tools.

-Eric-

PS: I love the L-V premium block best and use Shapton glass stones for sharpening.

[Jim Koepke]

Hi Dan and welcome to the Creek.

I do not have any of the LN planes mentioned above. My block planes are an old 9-1/2, 18, a pair of 60-1/2s and a pair of 65s.

Mine were all used. I use the 60-1/2 and the 65s mostly. I like the low angle. The adjustable mouth is also very useful. Closing or opening the mouth is like having a fine adjustment on the cutting action.

My planes have almost all been bought used. There are some pitfalls in this approach. If one is patient and likes to fettle, there are many good old buckets of rust to turn into little beauties.

If one wants to get up and go, the money is better spent buying a high quality tool new.

Your profile does not show a location, but Creekers seem to be a friendly lot. If you live near one, I am sure they would be happy to let you handle their planes if there is not a retailer near by who will let you handle the good before you buy.

The Stanley 60-1/2 and the 65 are nearly the same except for the width. If one has small hands, the 60-1/2 may be the better choice, I have medium-fat hands and the 65 is almost too wide for me to get a comfortable grip. No matter how good the tool you have, if it is uncomfortable to use, it will likely not get used. An unused tool, no matter how good the price is not a good investment for the tool user.

If it were me, and I had the money to do this, the 60-1/2R looks like a good tool, but it is more of a specialty tool than a general purpose tool.

Since my shop already has a couple of shoulder planes and other planes to do the job of this plane, it is way off my radar.

A good block plane like the 60-1/2 is a versatile tool that will be used on many jobs for as long as one is working wood.

An old axiom is to buy the best quality and most versatile tools for the work being done, that can be afforded.

jim

[Jim W. White]

I have only a Lee Nielsen 60 1/2 Rabbet plane as my only block plane and I love it. It's an extremely versatile little gem and have yet to miss the adjustable mouth. It can take whisper thin shavings regardless and the rabbetting ability is extremely handy.

Jim in Idaho

[Bob Hicks]

Hi Dan,
The LN low angle, adjustable mouth is my favorite plane - I wish I had two. However, you won't like it (or any other plane or chisel) if you don't have the ability to keep it sharp. If I was back in your position (been there), I'd spend $95 on the plane and the rest on a set of waterstones.
Bob

[Alan DuBoff]

If it were me, and I had the money to do this, the 60-1/2R looks like a good tool, but it is more of a specialty tool than a general purpose tool.
I don't see it being so much a specialty tool as much as I do versatile. The other thing is that you rarely find a rabbet plane in the wild, but the more common 60 1/2, 65, 65 1/2, etc...can be found fairly easy. In fact I have a 60 1/2 which I owned before the LN 60 1/2 R I own as well.

The 60 1/2 R is just an incredibly useful plane for me, but I 'spose all of our mileage varies on this. I use it for tenon cheeks, and you can kinda use it for tenon shoulders if your careful, but it's not the best suited, it does work for that work in a pinch and I have used it.

It also functions as a regular 'ol block plane when you want it to as well. I think I got mine on sale at Woodcraft. One of my favorite hand planes, slightly bigger than the older vintage Stanley 60 1/2 I own, but I use both of them quite a bit.

You can also find other common vintage planes like the 10 1/2, it's a bit wider, and those are fairly common also, it's just the vintage rabett is not that common in my experience, so it makes sense to get a new one instead.

[David Keller NC]

"What do you think about the idea of getting the 60-1/2R as a first plane instead of the 60-1/2?"

This depends. If you're also going to buy a small smoother at the same time (say a LN #3 - I personally don't recommend the bevel-up smoothers for beginners), then the rabbet block may be a good bet. However, if you're only going to buy one (block) plane and use it for a while, I'd recommend the non-rabbet Lie Nielsen 60 series with an extra blade.

The reason is that the 60 series Lie-Nielsen low angle block plane can be used as a small smoother by cambering (curving) the blade so that the opposite corners don't dig into the wood. Granted, it's not the most ideal smoother, but it will work just fine on smaller pieces like box sides. It can also be used on its side as a small shooting plane to clean up miters.

It'd be difficult to use the block rabbeting plane for shooting because of the opening in the side (which is designed to give you a clean corner in a rabbet), and while theoretically one could curve the front of the blade on a rabbet block plane, that pretty much rules out using the plane for the task for which it was designed.

Once again, you could get another blade to exchange out to restore it to its primary use, but in my opinion that's getting a bit too fancy - you'd be better off with the 60 series low angle block, a #3 smoother, and a small or medium shoulder plane. For now, until you get into hand-cutting moretise and tenon joints, the shoulder plane can wait.

[Danny Thompson]

This is an easy one.

If this will be your only plane for a while, then invest the extra $70. I love my 102, but it is not nearly as flexible a tool as the 60 1/2. With the adjustable mouth, you can take bigger gulps or very fine sips. The 102 is one size fits all.

I've seen some poor reviews of the 60 1/2R--excess chatter or something.

[Dan Sink]

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for all of the great input. A lot of knowledge and advice was shared and I really appreciate it.

[John Sanford]

I have a LA LN 60 1/2. Love. It. I also very much wish I had a standard block plane.

If I were going to buy only one, knowing what I know right now, I would simply throw reason to the wind and get the Veritas NX60. :eek:

Yup. Why? Because it's a plane I will likely never part with or replace. It would be a fantastic introduction into the world of handplanes. In fact, if I didn't already have a Low Angle block plane, I would have gotten the NX60. Much as I'd like one though, a standard angle block plane is going to be much more useful for me than a second low angle. If, however, anybody is willing to trade a Lie-Nielsen standard angle (60?) for a LA, PM me.... :)

As for whether yo should go with the "larger" block plane, or the lit'l guys, I'm going to make a mostly uniformed vote for the larger. I've never had a case where I wished I had a smaller block plane, but I have set aside the LN and reached for a larger plane on occasion. However, I've also only done a few small pieces, most of my work has been furniture.

[Derek Cohen]

As my first project I'm building a simple box. It requires a block plane and its a good excuse to buy my first plane.

Hi Dan

Of the LN #102/103 and LA 60 1/2, my choice for you would be the #60 1/2.

I have both the #103 (my first LN plane several years ago) and the #60 1/2, and as much as I think that the #103 is one of a few planes I'd take to a desert island, I believe that you'd get more use out of a plane like the 60 1/2.

It is not just the wide blade. It is not just the adjustable mouth. It is that the #102/103 has a coffin shaped body, whereas the 60 1/2 has straight sides. Since you are going to making boxes, I do think that you should consider making a small shooting board. Of the above planes, the LA #60 1/2 is the best choice.

Now as much as I like the LN #60 1/2, I consider the Veritas DX60 block plane a superior design. It is the same size, costs the same, but has better ergonomics. Side-by-side you can tell this. Individually, these planes are both fantastic. You can't lose. But look into the Veritas - you won't regret it.

My review (that compares these planes in detail): http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasPremiumBlockPlane.html

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasPremiumBlockPlane_html_67db55fa.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Tom Henderson2]

Hi Dan-

You are smart to buy tools based on immediate needs. Your tool dollars will go a LOT further that way.

And as you have seen, you will get a lot of different opinions. Here's mine.

First, for a smallish box project, the smaller planes will be perfect. They are also cheaper, which is a definate plus.

One question.... do you have gear to sharpen the blade on that new plane? You will need it, and it isn't cheap. LN advertises their planes are "ready to use" right out of the box, but honestly you'll need to hone the blade or you'll be disappointed.

IF you need advice on sharpening gear, I'd suggest starting a new thread.

-TH

[David Tiell]

Dan,
I have the LN 102, 60 1/2, and the 60 1/2R. I love all three, but I really prefer the 102 for small simple jobs. However, I agree with Derek in that the 60 1/2 would be better for what you say you want to use it for. And for what it's worth, I like the 60 1/2R for tenon cheeks, but I'm not to thrilled with it as a regular block plane. I guess it's because of the higher side cheeks required by the rabbet blade openings, but it doesn't fit my hand nearly as well as the 102 or 60 1/2. It just feels a lot "bulkier".

Dave

[Dan Sink]

Hi Dan-

You are smart to buy tools based on immediate needs. Your tool dollars will go a LOT further that way.

And as you have seen, you will get a lot of different opinions. Here's mine.

First, for a smallish box project, the smaller planes will be perfect. They are also cheaper, which is a definate plus.

One question.... do you have gear to sharpen the blade on that new plane? You will need it, and it isn't cheap. LN advertises their planes are "ready to use" right out of the box, but honestly you'll need to hone the blade or you'll be disappointed.

IF you need advice on sharpening gear, I'd suggest starting a new thread.

-TH

I've gotten so much great advice, thanks to everyone.

Tom - I don't have sharpening gear yet. I was hoping to be able to use the plane out of the box to work on my present project. I'm going to sell a nice guitar that's been sitting in my closet for the last five years. I'm hoping to get enough to buy sharpening gear and nice chisels and partially fund a router with the proceeds (it should bring me $400-450). Perhaps its best to just wait on this project until I get the sharpening gear and chisels. I was planning to use some cheap chisels and sharpen with sandpaper for this project. I was hoping that would suffice.

[Dan Sink]

As my first project I'm building a simple box. It requires a block plane and its a good excuse to buy my first plane.

Hi Dan

Of the LN #102/103 and LA 60 1/2, my choice for you would be the #60 1/2.

I have both the #103 (my first LN plane several years ago) and the #60 1/2, and as much as I think that the #103 is one of a few planes I'd take to a desert island, I believe that you'd get more use out of a plane like the 60 1/2.

It is not just the wide blade. It is not just the adjustable mouth. It is that the #102/103 has a coffin shaped body, whereas the 60 1/2 has straight sides. Since you are going to making boxes, I do think that you should consider making a small shooting board. Of the above planes, the LA #60 1/2 is the best choice.

Now as much as I like the LN #60 1/2, I consider the Veritas DX60 block plane a superior design. It is the same size, costs the same, but has better ergonomics. Side-by-side you can tell this. Individually, these planes are both fantastic. You can't lose. But look into the Veritas - you won't regret it.

My review (that compares these planes in detail): http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasPremiumBlockPlane.html

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasPremiumBlockPlane_html_67db55fa.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek


Derek - thanks for the great info. Nice article btw, great read. I have to admit that one reason I want to get an L-N versus a L-V is that the L-N is American made. Nothing against the Veritas or its country of origin (which I believe is Canada), but it seems like we actually manufacture very few products here in the states anymore and it was refreshing to me when I found out that a product I wanted was made by a company that has been able to make a quality product here in the states without sending its manufacturing overseas. I know that probably sounds silly, but having grown up in a blue collar town that's been devasted by the loss of manufacturing jobs, it just makes me feel good to buy a product made in Maine.

[John Schreiber]

. . . . I was planning to use some cheap chisels and sharpen with sandpaper for this project. I was hoping that would suffice.
I've been woodworking for years and I'm fairly serious about it. My chisels are Blue Chip like these (http://www.toolbarn.com/product/irwin/M444-SB6/). I'm still using sandpaper and I can get scary sharp enough to shave with.

Don't put off anything because you are waiting for fancy tools. Really high quality tools are wonderful. You couldn't take my 60 1/2 away from me, but you can do fine work with much less.

[Joel Goodman]

It's more important to get sharpening gear than the "best plane". You cannot take any plane out of the box and use it for a project without honing. Honing is part of woodworking. Either get waterstones or scary sharp (sandpapers), and a guide to get you started. Look up Derek's website "inthewoodshop" for a really cheap scary sharp setup if you're pinching pennies. Then either a LN LV or an old Stanley (pre ww2). Happy shavings.

[Richard Niemiec]

The point about sharpening is a good one. If you are going to use edge tools (i.e., plane irons and chisels, for example) you must develop sharpening skills.

Now, that being said, and others may disagree, one can get infected with the "perfect edge syndrome" which while bringing its own rewards, IMHO detracts from the primary purpose of an edge tool, which is working wood.

I started with jigs, worried about precise angles, fretted over how much of a micro bevel, etc. until I finally went freehand, and never looked back. Once the initial bevel is set, I now just sharpen "good enuf" for what I am doing.

My recommendation is to get yourself one of those $12 sharpening guides, a piece of thick glass (or tablesaw top) and various grits of wet dry sandpaper (the higher grits, 2k and 4k, etc.) you can get in an auto supply shop. Google scary sharp and follow the directions. Later on you can debate the merits of oilstone versus waterstone versus DMT, but in the meantime you will have more than good enuf sharp tools and as a bonus you will have made something out of wood.

As far as the plane, LN, LV, either sells a quality low angle block that will serve you very well. For that matter, an older Stanley properly fettled will give you 95% of a LN (and folks may also disagree with me about that, but opinions are like bellybuttons, everybody's got one).

Good luck. RN

[Meryl Logue]

I know this is an old thread, but it is a Goldie. Just wanted to say I read Derek’s review at the link on page one, and “Many thanks!” for that. I’m revisiting LV now.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I am not trying to turn this into a sharpening thread, but you said that you have nothing.

My first hand plane was a Lie Nielsen No. 4 because I knew that I could use it out of the box; and it was the correct plane for the job that I needed to do.

You do NOT need to spend a lot of money to be sharpening. You can sharpen with sandpaper on a flat surface; I use a flat granite block but many use thick glass. When I first saw the method it was called "scary sharp". Your hardest bit will be to get the angle right so you might need an angle guide to hold your blade.

In a perfect world, you will find someone near you who can help you out and let you try a few things before you spend money. At least one person shows up at my house to get his tools sharp because I have lots of sharpening gear. If you lived closer :D

And people have been sharpening free hand for years. I am not good at it unless I have a concave bevel, so that is how I do it because then I just go by free hand. When it is not sharp and you need help, just be sure to ask.

[Assaf Oppenheimer]

Hey, you got a lot of good advice here,

I just wanted to add one small thing.
I own the LN #60 1/2. it is a beautiful plane and very comfortable to use. I think that almost universally everyone agrees that at least for ergonomics, LA is more comfortable when you use a block plane one handed.

Lee valley has a really interesting chamfer jig that goes on their LA block planes. I never used it but I heard good things. it isn't that I'm willing to give up my LN for the LV so much as now I am tempted to own 2 block planes :D!
I have tools from both makers and I have yet to regret any. I think that the LV might be slightly more versatile and I know that it come with a PMV-11 blade. much easier to sharpen


Keep in mind that I am relatively new at this myself.

have fun

[Osvaldo Cristo]

Dan,

[...]

I actually went with the 60 1/2 R (rabbet) plane. I figured that it could do all of the jobs a standard block plane could do, plus the extra functionality that a rabbet plane gives you. I haven't been disappointed with it, and it is my go to block plane.

Hope this helps some.
Andy

I do not think "R" model can do all functions a "regular" LN 60 1/2 can do:

1. Regular 60 1/2 can be used with a shooting board. R model doesn't. It was a severe handicap for my use

2. R model are very prone to cut your hand and fingers according to advice I received here in this forum from some experts on theme

I went to LN 60 1/2 "conventional" as my first plane. I loved it and motivated me for my second one, LN Jack plane, basically a bigger version from the 60 1/2.

[Aaron Liebling]

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/block/61963-veritas-dx60-block-plane

Such a fantastic tool! It seems like some people prefer the fit of LV or Veritas. If you're buying your first plane it's worth trying both to see which feels better to you.

[Jack Frederick]

I have the 102, 60 1/2, and the 140 skew LN blocks. The 102 just falls to hand so easily and fits in a pouch/pocket that it gets used more. The 60 can do really fine work and is more substantial in the hand. The 140 is a special purpose unit for me and doesn’t get a lot of use. If I was going with one it wold be the 60 1/2. It just does more for me. I have gone the Rob Colman sharpening way and am very pleased with the results. I’d suggest you watch his videos. Planes that are not really sharp are basically hammers. Having used enough of them that way I know that is correct. The first time I got my LN 62 sharp it was a revelation. Thinking back on previous attempts all I can do is say, “Ah, ya dope…”

[Jim Koepke]

[snip]
Planes that are not really sharp are basically hammers. Having used enough of them that way I know that is correct. The first time I got my LN 62 sharp it was a revelation. Thinking back on previous attempts all I can do is say, “Ah, ya dope…”

As Rob Luter says, "Sharp solves all manner of problems."

Learning about sharpness techniques continues for most people over a long time. There are many different methods, each with many outspoken advocate for each.

They all have good points to various degrees.

Find what works for you while staying open to new ideas.

jtk

[Stephen Rosenthal]

I thought I knew what sharp was until I discovered the Unicorn method (thanks Winston!). Now my dad’s old plastic handled Stanley chisels perform every bit as well as my Lie Nielsens. I’ve begun the process of carefully applying this method to my plane blades as well. Looking forward to producing nearly invisible ribbons of wood shavings.

[Rob Luter]

It's funny, but I was introduced to the "Unicorn Method" in about 1976 in high school woodshop. We used it to sharpen lathe tools. With a rag wheel buffer and some Tripoli buffing compound you could put an edge on a gouge that would make hard maple turn like it was soap. I've never tried it on a plane iron.