Yankee Brace

[Mike Henderson]

I bought this Stanley Yankee 2101 brace on the recommendation of a friend. I have to say, it is the Cadillac (or Mercedes-Benz) of braces - smooth, quiet and appears to be quite strong.

A lot of these braces were sold to the Bell System (for linemen??? - this one is marked "Bell System - B"). At one time the Bell system was a monopoly and got a rate of return based on their expenses so they were incented to spend money.

This brace is an 8". I already had a 10" Miller's Falls so I shopped for an 8" Yankee. I'm sure it will outlast me, given how often I use a brace.

I did clean it up quite a bit - it didn't come to me in this condition.

Mike

[P.S. The handles are plastic, not wood. Oops, the handles are hard rubber, not plastic (thanks, David K.).]

[James Owen]

Mike,

Very nice brace. It looks almost brand new!

As a side note, I have a Bell System-marked 8" Stanley 923 brace; not quite as nice-looking as yours is, but a fine performer....

[george wilson]

Yankee was one of the best.

[John Dykes]

Mike,

Did you take it completely apart and clean the guts?

I got one in rough shape and opened it up. Wasn't as tough as I expected, and the increase in performance was considerable...

[Mike Henderson]

Mike,

Did you take it completely apart and clean the guts?

I got one in rough shape and opened it up. Wasn't as tough as I expected, and the increase in performance was considerable...
I tried to get the cap off and couldn't get it off without damaging the knurling. I'd like to get it apart and clean the guts. Any suggestions?

I put a piece of leather on the knurling and then put my small pipe wrench on it. No luck. Maybe I need to soak it in WD-40 or something to loosen it up. I found that web site (http://www.georgesbasement.com/fs2101a.htm) that gives the directions for taking it apart. It says the threads are right hand. Is that what you found???

Mike

[Mike Henderson]

Yankee was one of the best.

George - what other braces do you put in the same league as the Yankee?

Mike

[Casey Gooding]

I've cleaned up several of these. If memory serves me, that cap has reverse threads, so it's a lefty-loosy.
I might be wrong, though. Can't remember.

[Rick Dohm]

I'm sure you've probably seen this before, but just in case you haven't, try

http://www.georgesbasement.com/fs2101a.htm

Seems like a pretty good description for working on these fine braces.

Rick Dohm

[David Martino]

I recently took apart a 10" 2101 for cleaning and think the cap on top of the ratchet was threaded normally (counterclockwise to remove). I'll check next time I'm in the garage if you're still stuck.

I don't recommend taking it apart at night outside because the small parts inside the ratchet are easy to lose... especially the leaf spring.:eek: (Luckily I found it.)

I think the 2101 (not 2100) braces were sealed and do get stuck with dry lubrication, so it's worth opening up.

Some people like Fray non-ratcheting braces for lighter work - don't need the heavy chuck for turning normal size bits - but all the ones I find look like they were stored at the bottom of a river for 100 years.

Other excellent ratcheting braces are Millers Falls (770 series) with Lion/Hold-all chuck and Pexto had a similar heavy duty chuck brace (Samson?). I have a Craftsman 10-inch brace that is an MF clone, down to the improved jaws - must have been manufactured by MF for sale by Craftsman and is marked "BB" - possibly for the ball bearing chuck? Stanley/Yankees fetch a premium because of their reputation. Millers Falls and Pexto are similar quality but usually cheaper. The Craftsman was a bargain. Of course, now you need some auger bits if you don't already have...

Here's the Craftsman clone of Millers Falls:

[Jim Koepke]

Mike,

Just about all the outside workers at the Bell System used these. As an installer, mine was used to put holes in walls to run wiring and install a hook on a pole if there wasn't one where needed. Linemen used them of course to put cable hangers on poles. Splicers had to use them sometimes also.

I have an 8" Bell System. The ratchet toggle pin is frozen. Don't need the ratchet much anyway. It is a good brace and the first one reached for. My arms seem to be a bit bigger from driving the big bits with that thing.


Most of the phone workers now use battery powered drivers. They will likely not last as long.

jim

[David Keller NC]

"George - what other braces do you put in the same league as the Yankee?"

Well, this is putting words in George's mouth, but there aren't any. It could be argued that the North brothers design was way-overkill, and you don't need it just to bore holes with an Irwin or Jennings patent bit, but if you need weather proof and a design sufficient to get rusty screws out on a continuous basis, the design has never been equaled.

By the way - the handles are hard, vulcanized rubber, not plastic (plastic would've meant "bakelite" when the North Bros. was designed in the 1930's, and would've deteriorated long ago).

You've a very nice brace - they fetch about $100 in clean but worn condition on the collector's market. The 2101s go for a bit more.

[Mike Henderson]

Thanks for the information everyone Couple of questions.

1. (for David Keller) I didn't quite understand your last comment "The 2101s go for a bit more". Is that a model - the 2101s - or is that a plural of the 2101 ("the model 2101 units go for a bit more"). My confusion is that the one I have is a 2101. The only other model I was aware of is the 2100 which I thought was made prior to Stanley buying North Brothers.

2. (for David Martino) What's the claim to fame for the Fray non-ratcheting brace? A non-ratcheting brace is pretty simple so it must be in the chuck, or is it just that they're scarce.

Thanks for educating me.

Mike

[Gary Herrmann]

You've a very nice brace - they fetch about $100 in clean but worn condition on the collector's market. The 2101s go for a bit more.

Interesting. I would have thought the 2100 series would go for me - since they're preacquisition, but I will admit to ignorance regarding the collectibility of these tools. I have both, and don't see much difference in their functionality, but I seem to remember reading somewhere that Stanley cheaped out on some of the components on the 2101 vs the 2100. I don't know if that occurred after North Bros was no longer listed on the brace or not...

[John Dykes]

Mike -

You've found the instructions that I used... And yes, without question, getting that cap off was very, very tough. Been a bit, but I used channel locks, shoe leather, and a vise - and yes, I would recommend caution. But, for mine, it had to be done - and I'm glad I did it.

Should be encouragement to you - if this ham-fisted monkey can do it.... ;)

I'll try to run out and see the threading on it tonight.

Best of luck to you.

[Chuck Nickerson]

2. (for David Martino) What's the claim to fame for the Fray non-ratcheting brace? A non-ratcheting brace is pretty simple so it must be in the chuck, or is it just that they're scarce.


I'm not David, but I'll take a whack. Fray non-ratcheting vs ratcheting: much lighter and much faster bit changing. If you don't need the ratcheting feature, it's a lot of excess baggage.

Fray non-ratcheting vs other non-ratcheting: I only have 12 non-ratcheting braces for comparison, but the Fray's are always aligned, balanced, and the bit holding mechanism is suprising good and quick.

Mike - when I take your carving class at Woodcraft, I'll bring a couple for you to try.

[David Keller NC]

"1. (for David Keller) I didn't quite understand your last comment "The 2101s go for a bit more". Is that a model - the 2101s - or is that a plural of the 2101 ("the model 2101 units go for a bit more"). My confusion is that the one I have is a 2101. The only other model I was aware of is the 2100 which I thought was made prior to Stanley buying North Brothers."

Mike - Apologies, I did have the two model numbers backwards. Stanley made both the 2100 and the 2101. According to http://www.sydnassloot.com/Brace/Northb.htm, the 2100 models are the higher-end ones (and is the one I have, though it was clearly made by Stanley and marked as such). Regardless, the differential at an auction between the two models isn't all that much - it's condition that really jacks the price up. The most I've ever seen one go for was $400 for one made prior to Stanley buying North Bros out that was in its (somewhat tatty) original box.

Another factor in prices that these bring is the throw - the 6" throw models are highly sought after, and the 8" throws are almost as "hot". The 10" and 12" braces, not so much. Makes sense from a cabinetmaker's perspective.

[Mike Henderson]

I'm not David, but I'll take a whack. Fray non-ratcheting vs ratcheting: much lighter and much faster bit changing. If you don't need the ratcheting feature, it's a lot of excess baggage.

Fray non-ratcheting vs other non-ratcheting: I only have 12 non-ratcheting braces for comparison, but the Fray's are always aligned, balanced, and the bit holding mechanism is suprising good and quick.

Mike - when I take your carving class at Woodcraft, I'll bring a couple for you to try.
Thanks - I'd love to see a couple. Not that I need to buy any more braces.

Have you signed up for the carving class yet? I'll be looking for you.

Mike

[Chuck Nickerson]

Thanks - I'd love to see a couple. Not that I need to buy any more braces.

Have you signed up for the carving class yet? I'll be looking for you.

Mike

I'm in the April 5th class. I may also make it down for the demo on February 28th, but that's up for grabs.

[David Martino]

What's the claim to fame for the Fray non-ratcheting brace? A non-ratcheting brace is pretty simple so it must be in the chuck, or is it just that they're scarce.
[/QUOTE]

What Chuck said... I think it's that the ratchet mechanism and large, ball-bearing chucks are heavy - work great when you need the muscle. But you don't always need a ratchet. The chucks on Fray (and many older braces) are simple wingscrew affairs - quick and light. Some say easier to stay plumb or steer the bit. The Fray mechanism is supposed to be particularly simple and effective. I'm not sure but they might only take 4-sided bits? I don't know firsthand... yet... Fray/Spofford brace are scarce, at least where I've been looking. Until then, guess I'll just keep using my heavy, nickel-plated, ball-bearing ratcheting braces...

I checked my Stanley-made 2101A marked "Bell System B". The cap on top of the ratchet has normal threads, i.e. counterclockwise to remove. ChanneLocks and some cardboard to cushion worked for me, but it wasn't seized up. Also, mine's probably from 1950s-60s. Go easy, Stanley may have changed this at some point. Good luck,

Dave M.

[Adam Cherubini]

I bought this Stanley Yankee 2101 brace ...I have to say, it is the Cadillac (or Mercedes-Benz) of braces

Mike,

I can't resist an automotive analogy. I don't care for 2101. For cabinetry, it's just too big. It's more like driving an F350 Super Duty pick-up truck to your job at the office. It's more than any office worker really needs. Sure. Along the way, you may spy a stranded firetruck in a ditch that you can pull to safety. For short trips and light loads, I prefer to strap on a high revving sub compact.

For years I've heard guys extoll the virtues of these braces and I bought one or four myself. And while I have occassion to use it once in awhile, I don't think the tool deserves all it's press. It's a carpenter's tool designed for pumping large holes in soft woods. A little 3" brace with a chuck that can hold just about anything is more my speed. Don't really need the weight or complexity of a ratchet. Don't need precision jaws. The bits I use aren't precision. Stanley made good cheap braces with simple rachets and wooden handles for a time...maybe early 20th century. For a simple nonsense brace, I'd recommend one of those in the smaller sizes. If you have made up your mind to take up timber framing (or maple workbench building) full time, get the yankee.

Adam

[Mike Henderson]

Adam - thank you for your posting. I'm building a Windsor chair and was talking with an experienced Windsor chair maker who recommended the Yankee. He did say that the ratchet mechanism is not required. And even if it was, a sealed mechanism is certainly not required for making Windsor chairs.

But it's interesting to see how the Yankee is made. I guess I'm a gadget freak.

You mention a 3" brace. I'm assuming you're referring to a brace with a 6" swing - is that correct?

I'll research the small Stanley - do you remember the model number(s).

Mike

[Justin Green]

Quick question (from a newbie):

Do they still make bits for these braces?

[David Keller NC]

Justin - Yes, but they're pricey. Tools for Working Woods sells them, and while supplies last, Lee Valley was selling some new old stock. I'm not one that can talk when it comes to buying new, expensive tools, but in this case, you might be better off looking for a used set of Stanelys. However, the Tools for Working Wood bits would be a good way to fill out a set that's missing one or two.

[Brian Ward]

Irwin still makes a bunch of taper-shank bits for braces, but the quality can be iffy. An auger bit file is necessary equipment on a lot of them to make the cutters work correctly.

Old bits are pretty easy to come by and tend to be a lot cheaper. I've had good luck at buying bunches of them and picking out the good ones.

[Mike Henderson]

There's a couple of types of "old" bits - Adam or David could probably tell you more. One type is flat and looks somewhat like a modern spade pit - probably originally blacksmith made. The other is the auger bit.

You can find both on eBay. The auger bits are very inexpensive. I bought an auger file from Lie Nielsen ($8 + $3 shipping) to sharpen them.

You can also use regular (modern) twist bits if the chuck will hold them. Some chucks will only handle the tapered square shank bits.

[Added note: I forgot about spoon bits. You can find them in many places but Lee Valley has a set here (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=57713&cat=1,180,42337).]

Mike

[David Keller NC]

Mike - a thought on your Windsor chair project. Roy Underhill did a show with a distinguished guest that was a Windsor maker (Curtis Buchanan - I think). He demonstrated a "gage patent" auger bit with spurs that were curled up instead of pointing down as with the Jennings or Irwin patent. The really cool thing about this bit is that it could easily bore at an angle to the wood's surface other than 90 degrees. It might be worth looking for one of these if you can find it in the right size.

BTW - "Gage" is how it was pronounced, but I don't think it was how it was spelled. Perhaps someone else that knows could chime in here.

[Mike Henderson]

Thanks, David. My friend uses spoon bits but I'll look into that gage bit.

Mike