Outboard turning?

[Bonnie Campbell]

Okay, I JUST remembered that I have the arm attachment for outboard turning for my lathe from hell. We all know the Palmgren's reputation lol

Is there anything I need to be extra careful doing when outboard turning?

Hubby had all kinds of lead for bullet casting, I'm thinking I should load the lathe table up with it, so it'll be extra sturdy?

Just trying to get some tips and pointers since I'm being extra cautious now with nobody around to scream to if things go bad.....

[Bill Bolen]

Bonnie I've used that arm attachment on my jet. That can be pretty scary with a large piece! There is a bit of flex because of the distance from banjo out to the tool rest. My work around was to use a telescoping leg from my Shopsmith hooked right under the arm and going to the floor. I read a post about this sometime ago and there were many work arounds posted. The simpliest was a piece of 2x2 cut to length and wedged between the arm and the floor. It does work but can make you break sweat from time to time...Bill..

[Bonnie Campbell]

Don't think I've any 2x2's around. But how about one of them landscape timbers (4x4?), cutting a slot along the top for the arm and long enough to still jam it against the floor? I'd guess some kind of base around the timber so it can't wobble or shift?

[Mike Ramsey]

Bonnie, I've used that very same attachment on my previous Sears/Palmgren lathe & it works fine, It was sturdier than I thought
it would be as it bolts to the end of the ways. It's a pain to adjust
because of all the bolts & nuts involved. But just get your work as
round as possible before mounting it on the swivel headstock, & take
light cuts.....

I had mine bolted to a huge/heavy table & it did not move a lot.

[Bill Bolen]

That will work. I remembered another method posted was a piece of cheap galvinized pipe the right length with fitting screwed on. That way minor heigth adjustmens were pretty simple. The whole idea is just to transfer that downward force to the floor rather than depending on the cast iron fitting for the arm into the banjo...Bill...

[Bonnie Campbell]

"round as possible' is one the worst things for me. My bandsaw is to small and the table saw scares me :eek: So I have square blocks to turn. Ain't bad with small stuff. I keep my chisels sharp enough. But a 20+ pound block of walnut spinning...... I'll have to try finding someone that can round some for me I guess. Back to little turnings for now :(

[Bernie Weishapl]

Bonnie I had the same lathe and had the attachment that bolted to the end of the lathe. Mine was bolted to a heavy bench and light cuts all was good. If you have a chainsaw you can cut the corners off to. I do so at times with my electric chainsaw. Works great.

[alex carey]

I agree with Bernie. I use a 16" electric chainsaw and it works wonders.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100615525

Only cost 80$ and it so far has been very reliable. Uses a lot of oil but that hasn't been a big deal.

Or get the 14"
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100615519

Only 50$. I assume it is also pretty good.

With my 16" I trim stuff in the 20" range with no problem so I'm guessing a 14" should be able to do anything you ask it to do.

Alex

[Bonnie Campbell]

Well, I DO have a small electric chain saw.....I'm the kind that'd disappear when anybody used one. I just KNEW they were going to cut a leg off or something. So, how would I set a block up to cut the corners off? I'm guessing it'd have to be held tightly some how?

I know, I really sound like a moron, but I never used one before :o

[Richard Madison]

Whatever you come up with, when you start the lathe with that first big chunk on it, stand well to the side and keep your hand on the switch in case it starts dancing. Knowing you knew that already, had to write it anyhow.

[Don Carter]

Bonnie:
I am glad you back turning, I know you love it, and it helps.

I made a saw buck to hold logs or rough blanks. Darrell Feltmate at Around the Woods site has great instructions on making one. I use a nylon strap to hold the block down to the buck. I hope this helps some.

All the best.

Don

[William Bachtel]

Isn't there anyone around that area that can help this woman out for a few hours? I wood take your block of wood to a local lumberyard and ask them to cut it round most have a large bandsaw, and wood be happy to help. I might add that it shouldn't cost much. Just get ready to answer a few ? s

[Neal Addy]

Bonnie, I hate to go against the grain but I'd strongly advise you NOT to use that arm attachment. I haven't seen the Palmgren but I have read too many stories about other brands breaking. I have an extension that came with my Jet but I would never trust it.

Maybe I'm being too cautious, but safety first!

[David Christopher]

Bonnie, when I used the extra arm on my old lathe I would take my squeze clamp and turn it around to spread and put it under the arm insted of a 2X2

http://images1.toolup.com/imdir/product/irwin/large/2021424.jpg

[alex carey]

Yeah, really someone needs to make a trip towards Bonnie and help her out with this chainsaw thing. I would but mississippi is a little too far away from california.

With really large blocks you don't need to clamp them down because they weigh so much and shouldn't move too much. If the surface they are lying on isn't flat then you can put some wooden wedges to make it flat. I put all of the blanks I am cutting onto a 2' diameter log that is 2' feet high. You want that surface to be solid and made of wood.

If the blocks are small and too light weight there are two things I do. The first is I chuck it up and lock the spindle. Then I make the cuts while the wood is on the lathe. This has worked well for me but it must be done with extreme caution. If you accidentally go too far and touch metal with the chainsaw you will get a big kick and what happens next could be very dangerous.
The second way I do it is by stepping on the piece of wood to keep it steady and then making cuts. Of course if you do this you better be sure to wear some HEAVY DUTY boots and pants. I don't recommend this.

Instead what you could do is put a screw in the center of the wood. Then put some round free weights to weigh down the wood. The screw will keep them from moving too much.


I think perhaps before you do any of this you should get someone to teach you how to use a chainsaw because they definitely are dangerous. It only takes one bad kick to have a serious injury.

I hope some of this will help.

GL

Alex