Stainless Steel Engraving

[Steve Clarkson]

OK, so I wanted to see if my laser could engrave stainless steel without Cermark......yup, it can!

Although my Epilog rep suggested that I use my 1.5" lens, I didn't feel like swapping it out, so I used the 2" lens. I engraved at 6s 100p and was impressed with how deep the mark was (it was ALOT deeper than any mark I've made on granite!).

It was pretty slow going, but I'm sure with a little bit more testing (with power levels and maybe using the 1.5" lens) I could cut that time down significantly.

I only engraved some text, but next time I'll try a graphic or photo. After it was done, I took a brillo pad and scrubbed it for like 10 seconds (I actually engraved a large butchers knife). Although the engraving didn't seem as deep after scrubbing, it was still on there clear as day.

After engraving, there was some residue (almost like a burned yellow paste). I should have just wiped it with a wet cloth to see if it would come off, but it did come right out after using the brillo pad. After scrubbing, the engraving was a dark grey, as opposed to black.

Since I've never used Cermark, can anyone tell me which they prefer.....the mark with or without Cermark. Also, if you take a brillo pad and scrub a mark made with Cermark, will it still be there? I've read in other posts that if you don't apply the Cermark correctly, it will simply wipe off with a cloth.

Also, I forgot to check the other posts for settings using Cermark.....will you be able to engrave alot faster using Cermark as opposed to without?

Lastly, although the mark was a dark grey....the engraving was deep.....can you color fill stainless?

[Bruce Volden]

Steve,

I prefer the Cermark as it it clear and distinct! I do hundreds of knives for trapshooting prizes with text/logo...what have you. I have made a mistake or two over the years. What I ended up doing to remedy the mistakes was to buy a Baldor buffing/grinding system and grind off the Cermark. SO- yes you can take steel wool to the "marked" item and work it over. and over, and over....and your mark will still be there!!! Don't make mistakes with the Cermark.:D

Also, I run the laser @ 15s, 75p, 400dpi, Epilog TT 35W.

Bruce

[Shane Turner]

Just a word of warning when marking naked stainless steel, the laser WILL reflect.
I once tried what you're doing now... about a week later I noticed melted distortions on the undersite of the lid of the machine and reduced power. The laser had reflected off the stainless and melted the lid; it has also etched the lens!
So, be very careful here.

[Frank Corker]

Recommended settings for a 45 watt using cermark is 20/100 25/100 and 30/100 (300 400 and 600 dpi) so a lot faster.

[Steve Clarkson]

Thanks Frank......I suppose I could have just looked in my Epilog Manual....but thanks for not making me get up and walk across the room to look at it!

Bruce....thanks for your opinion. I was kinda hoping you would say they look just as good either way.....now you're gonna make me go buy some Cermark!

Shane, are you kidding me?????? I had no idea it would do that!

[Martin Boekers]

Talk about engraving shiny surfaces makes me nervous at times, but I may be missing something here, Is the beam perpendicular to the engraving area? If so how does it manage to reflect up and out of the way of the lens assembly to "etch the lid"?

Then there is the issue of the reflecting back to the tube and destroying it. Wouldn't the lens change the focus? as it is designed to focus in one direction? What happens to the beam if it travels through the lens "backwards"? Does it lose enough focus or concentration so it won't hurt the tube?

If the reflection can reflect and bounce back to the lid, I guess I really shouldn't be standing over the laser watching through the lid as it is engraving!


Marty

[Steve Clarkson]

Where's Peck when you need him?

[Martin Boekers]

Lurking in the shadows!

[Shane Turner]

I was engraving a surface with a slight curve, so when it was on the normal it reflected and etched the lens, when off axis it missed the lens and started melting the lid.

And after all that, yes it did leave a mark with some depth, but it wasn't as visible as cermark, or even a yag / fibre laser.

[Vaughan Raymond]

Not wanting to buy the expensive Cermark, I tried the technique using of using cold galvanizing spray. It was about 8 bucks for a large spray can and it works very well on stainless. It is not jet black but just on the grey side of black. Just a thought for a cheap alternative.

[Peck Sidara]

Steve/Marty,

Always lurking but don't get to read all the postings/all the time. Shoot me a PM or email next time I can be of some assistance.

I'm surprised you were able to mark stainless steel w/ depth. Most marks I've done or seen (low/mid powered C02) have been an annealed mark where we're heating the surface, bringing the carbon out from the metal resulting in purples/blues/almost black. I would expect this type of mark on stainless using your machine at the settings you've posted.

If you are getting some depth, it's not likely deep enough for a color fill but hey, give it a shot.

Multiple passes could also provide more contrast to the annealed mark, it's slow though. But if you have the time and the mark meets your requirements, go for it and save some money while you're at it (no metal marking spray needed)

CerMark/TherMark works best on bare metals using a low/mid powered C02 laser. It's faster and the marks are more contrasting.

Laser beam reflection: I'd only be cautious of reflection if the material you're engraving is highly reflective. In most cases (marking stainless directly) and direct marking other bare metals, it shouldn't be a concern.

Marty poses a lot of good questions. In theory the beam is always perpendicular to the material you're engraving. Not likely the case in real world instances. The slightest angle off when a laser beam bounces off a mirror or goes thru the lens compiles/amplifies so it's never exactly parallel or perpendicular.

If by chance the beam does reflect, I'm not sure what the focal lens would then do to the laser beam if going the opposite direction. I've seen engravings with the lens mounted upside down, it's pretty bad but it definitely wasn't what I would expect.

Conclusion on reflection: Yes, reflection can occur, what damage can it do to optics or laser source, I'm not certain. But based on machine, optics, alignment tolerances and that the laser beam is likely mostly absorbed by the material you're engraving (it's leaving a mark right), the amount of reflection/amount of power being reflected will most likely be diffused before it gets back far enough to cause major damage.

You can mark bare metals using a C02 Epilog laser. A 1.5" lens and a model equipped w/ High Radiance Optics would be better suited for this application.

HTH,

[Rodne Gold]

The lens upside down or right way up shouldnt matter - it will still refract the beam to a focal point , the reason why the engraving is bad is probably cos the focus is out either higher or lower cos the lens isnt isnt in the correct place with respect to the material....

[Steve Clarkson]

Peck, are you seriously trying to tell us that you guys don't sit around all day at work and play with the lasers? "Hey, Peck.....watch what happens when I do THIS with the laser!!" Are you telling me that in all the years that you've been there, that no one has said....."Hey, let's see what happens if we reflect the laser beam straight back up!!!" Instead of shooting baskets with wadded up pieces of paper to pass the time, I would think that any rationale man would be sticking all kinds of wierd stuff in the company laser......just to see what would happen! Lord knows WE do! And we PAID for ours!

Well, maybe you guys accidently gave me a 100 watt laser by mistake, but I had no problem marking the stainless.....I'll try to post a picture tomorrow.

[Steve Clarkson]

Andy.....here is a picture of the stainless steel knife that I engraved.

[Roy Nicholson]

That looks quite good Steve.

I might give that atry on a pen knife tomorrow.

Regards


Roy N.

[Mike Null]

Steve

I've marked several pieces of stainless without Cermark. You will find that you can't mark non-magnetic stainless, that is stainless with high chrome/nickel content. You will also find that when attempting to mark thin stainless it will distort due to the high heat. I tried it on a ss coffee mug and while it marked it also ruined the mug.

The process is too slow to consider for production.

[Steve Clarkson]

I agree Mike.....I was just trying to do it to see if I could. Thanks for letting me about the coffee mug.....I spill enough as it is.....certainly don't need to drink from a deformed cup!!!!

[Brian Robison]

Bump,
I have a 80 rabbit added to the mix, the dot size is TINY and I tried a sample and it worked.
When I tried again I had a tough time. Not sure what changed......