tenons on long rails

[Brad Wood]

Hi,

LOML has a dining table on her wish list... fairly big one at that.

Are there special considerations for a large piece like this when constructing the base? I'm thinking I want to do a standard four leg rectangle base... And it seems to make sense to use basic mortise and tenon construction.

After pondering for a while, I started to realize, the rails are going to be too long to use my tenoning jig on the table saw. I've got a low ceiling, and even it I didn't, it seems like stock sticking up in the air six+ feet would not be very safe/stable/etc.

Then i thought I could do loose tenon method, but then I'd have to mortise the end of the same long stock. I suppose I could do this, but it seems like it would be awkward to hold the router horizontal on the end of a relatively small surface..

... so.. I'm turning to the pro's to help me figure out what the best method is for getting this done.

thanks

[Brian Kent]

Use a really solid "pig sticker" mortising chisel, either an old one from the auction site or a new Ray Isles mortise chisel:

http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=toolshop&Product_Code=MS-MORT.XX&Category_Code=TBMC

Brian Kent

[Paul Atkins]

Brian, I think he wants to make tenons. I use the table saw, but cut them flat using a sled or miter gauge and set my blade (either dado or regular blade) to the height of the waste and use a stop for the end. Six feet shouldn't be too bad lying flat. You can set the angle too if your legs are tapered or set at an angle. I hate long boards up in the air and cutting end grain.

[Vince Shriver]

Wouldn't a router be the tool for this? The tenons can be cut with the rails laying flat, then turned over for the other cheek. The mortise can be cut with a router and a jig, something like the Mortise Pal, or edge guides on the router.

[Brad Wood]

The mortise in the legs I've got ... I built a router jig for that and it has worked well for me so far.

Is there a jig out there for using a router to make the tenons? .. or would it essentially be the same as using the saw like noted by Paul?

Paul - well, thats how I did it before having the jig, so I know what you are talking about and have done it that way.. didn't even think of that :)

[Greg Hines, MD]

I would suggest a hybrid method. Cut your shoulders with the table saw, and then use a router, either handheld or table mounted, to clear the waste. Router bits generally leave the shoulders kinda rough, and your table saw will make them nice and crisp.

Doc

[Tony Bilello]

With a cross cut sled to help support the 6' long apron pieces, the Table saw should be no problem at all.

[Jamie Buxton]

There are lots of ways to do it. I'd cut the shoulders on the table saw, then cut the cheeks with the bandsaw. If you're a little unsure of your bandsaw, you can cut the tenon fat, and trim to fit with a shoulder plane.

[Mike Henderson]

Brian, I think he wants to make tenons. I use the table saw, but cut them flat using a sled or miter gauge and set my blade (either dado or regular blade) to the height of the waste and use a stop for the end. Six feet shouldn't be too bad lying flat. You can set the angle too if your legs are tapered or set at an angle. I hate long boards up in the air and cutting end grain.
+1 That's exactly how I make my tenons.

Mike

[Bruce Wrenn]

Cut the shoulders first, and then nibble away the waste, the way Norm does it. You can use either blade or dado set - your choice. I find it quicker to use the blade, as it is already set to correct height. Clean up the tennon with a chisel. Or cut shoulders on TS and then tennons on a band saw. Third method is to cut shoulders and then remove waste with router.

[Mike Henderson]

Why not make the table an expanding one? With two 12" insert panels the table would be smaller for your use and you could expand it when you have company.

It's easy to make an expanding table. Look for "table slides". You put two of those under your table. They allow the table to expand a bit more than 24" (in this case) so you can put the panels in, then you bump them closed.

That makes your apron two pieces on each side, only about 2' long each.

Mike

[Rod Sheridan]

Mortise gauge and backsaw for the tenons, mortise gauge and mortise chisel for the mortises, or if you really like noise and mess, a router.

After all, it's not like you're cutting hundreds of tenons...Rod.

[Brad Wood]

Mortise gauge and backsaw for the tenons, mortise gauge and mortise chisel for the mortises, or if you really like noise and mess, a router.

After all, it's not like you're cutting hundreds of tenons...Rod.

Rod must hang out in the Neanderthal forum a lot :D