Layout and cuting octagon table top

[Michael Merrill]

I'm building an octagon pub table. I've got my table top all edge glued and surfaced so now is the time to layout the pattern and make the cut for the final dimension.

I've found calculators online to help with the dimensions of the layout, so I think that will be fine. I'm curious on how best to make the cuts? I can start with a reference cut on the TS on one side but from there all the cuts on on angles to that?

Was maybe thinking to make a set of rough cuts on the BS and then to use a straight edge clamped at the proper angle and use the router to to final dimension?

Overall the table is about 40in so just setting the miter gauge on the TS I don't see working.

Ideas?

[Joe Chritz]

Jig saw and clean up with a router and guide or a guided Circular saw ala Festool or similar would likely be the easiest. If you carefully make layout marks first it should be a snap to follow.

If one of the angles is off a degree it won't matter since you won't be able to tell. Even so I bet you could get to within .25 or .5 of a degree pretty easy this way.

Joe

[Michael Merrill]

Yeah Joe that is the basic idea that I was thinking except I was going to knock off the excess with the BS. The only tricky thing is setting up the guide to follow since it isn't a 90, but I was thinking I could cut a angle block and tack it to a straight edge and that should help me reference the lines better on an angle.

I figure the router taking a couple passes will leave a much better edge that wil require less work that a saw blade

[Joe Scharle]

I cut some candlestick tops, but they were a lot smaller pinned on my large sled. Drew the lines and extended them to the edges. I'd try to make smooth cuts so all I had left was final sanding.

[Jim Kountz]

Layout your octagon exactly to the finished size you want. Using a circular saw measure the distance between the blade and the side of the saw plate. Draw parallel lines to the original lines this exact offset. Thats the line to clamp your straight edge guide to.

[Dewey Torres]

Mich,
I suggest you PM one of these guys who have made poker tables:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=93826&highlight=poker

[Greg Hines, MD]

When making his poker table, Norm used a straight edge and circular saw to cut the angled corners. You could then use a router and straight edge to mill the edges smooth if your circular saw left a rough edge.

Doc

[Joe Chritz]

If you are going to use a bandsaw anyway just layout the lines in pencil and then cut to within 1/8" on the bandsaw. Clamp a straight edge right on the line and use a top bearing bit (or flip the table and use a bottom) and you are in business.

Once the lines are on the top, it is really simple to just line up the guide. It will be plenty close enough, likely well within a 1/2 degree. You would likely get a good enough edge with a decent circular saw blade and you can build a real easy guide with some hardboard and plywood to make a zero clearance guide. Before I got the TS55 I used a piece of hardboard about 4 feet long with a straight chunk of plywood glued on. Run the saw down the flat board and instant zero clearance guide.

I wouldn't try to make it any more complicated then needed.

Joe

[Greg Sznajdruk]

I’ve thought about this and decided to use the table saw. I have a panel sled for cutting small panels so I measured over from the edge in your case 20 inches and installed a ¼ dowel. Drilled a ¼ inch hole in the center of the blank dropped the blank on and feed it through the saw. Rotated it 22 ½ degrees and cut the next side etc.

Greg

[Tony Bilello]

STRAIGHT LINE RIP JIG

I have several of these in various sizes. They rarely get used but when they do, they sure make life simple. I use them for straight line ripping bowed boards and sometimes for special occasions when a piece is too large for my angle/leg jig.

Here goes…

Photo 1: Just a simple jig. Two pieces of MDF, plywood or whatever you have handy.
The length should be determined by the job at hand. The width should be determined by the job at hand. The height is 2 fold. The height of the actual jug should be determined by the your Table Saw fence. The height from the table saw to the horizontal ‘wing’ should be just slightly higher than the thickness of the wood you will be cutting.
The joint used is a dado to set the ‘wing’ into. It is glued and brad nailed in place. It can also be secured by counter sunk screws.
Once the wing is glued and secured, it can be used immediately. No need to wait for it to dry.

Photo 2: Clamp the jig against your fence.
I also write notes on the jig like how far from the jig to the blade, the height from the table to the wing, etc. It just makes life simpler.

Photo 3: Set you’re your fence so that the edge of the jig is directly over the “outer edge” of the blade. This means that the left edge of your blade is flush with the jig. Record this width as explained in the previous step for fast and easy resetting in the future.
Raise the blade so that it touches the jig and cuts into it just a tad.

Photo 4: Turn you work piece upside down. With a sharp pencil, draw your ‘cut line’ using get a straight edge. Nail or otherwise secure a straight board to it perfectly even with your drawn line.
What you have done is to make a false fence (jig) for your Table Saw and also a fence for your work piece (the straight board).

Photo 5: Line up your pieces and Rock ‘N’ Roll.
Just push it through the blade like you normally would make a cut.

[Michael Merrill]

Didn't really see how these jigs discussed related to my situation???? I just went with a guide strip, I got the 4 sides routed that are 90 degrees to another, later this week I''ll get the others.

The finish with taking small passes with a good router bit is very good, should make the next steps easy, no saw marks to contend with.

Thanks everyone.

[Tony Bilello]

Didn't really see how these jigs discussed related to my situation???? I just went with a guide strip, I got the 4 sides routed that are 90 degrees to another, later this week I''ll get the others.


The use of the jig I showed would allow you to make 1 cut at a time. I could draw an octagon with a compass and a straight edge in about 3 minutes. Then make 1 cut at a time in about 1 minute per cut for 8 cuts. Thats a total of 11 minutes for an octagonal table top.

[Michael Merrill]

Tony, I think maybe I get it now. YOu example the angle was fairly small, almost looked like a taper. I guess if in picture 4 the jig was made at a 45 degree angle (that is what is needed for an octagon) then that is how I would use the jig.

Right? Just want to know for future reference.

[Tony Bilello]

Tony, I think maybe I get it now. YOu example the angle was fairly small, almost looked like a taper. I guess if in picture 4 the jig was made at a 45 degree angle (that is what is needed for an octagon) then that is how I would use the jig.

Right? Just want to know for future reference.

Sorry for the misunderstanding. The photo's were made to demonstrate the jig for a different use and in Photo 4 it was for a tapered piece. When I submitted this to reply to your question, I failed to mention it. The main point is that all you do is tack a straight edged piece along your pencil line and it will follow it.