Safely keeping a laminate trimming bit clean

[Quesne Ouaques]

I am laminating some plywood with Wilson Art laminate (like Formica). The carbide tends to get fouled with the contact cement. Every so often, I am tempted to wipe the bits off with Goo-Gone or Goof-Off. These citrus-based solvents are incredibly effective with contact cement, but are they safe on router bits?

I am concerned as I have read on SMC that some solvents can attack the braze (or cement?) that holds the carbide to the body of the bit. Does someone have some information on what types of solvents are safe and which ones are not?

Thanks in advance for any help!

[Larry Edgerton]

I use Lacquer Thinner. Never had a problem. Try not to let the bearing get too soaked, just wipe off the running surface. The glue on the cutter itself is not ever a problem, only the glue on the bearing,but it is good to clean up after the job is done, and I then coat with Top Cote for storage.

[Tony Bilello]

It is a very powerful and clean solvent. Similar to acetone.

[Andrew Joiner]

Yes, I use lacquer thinner.
The safest method would be to wipe when the bit is not spinning!

It would be hard to believe that any solvent would cause the brazing to fail.

[Joe Chritz]

Lots of solvents (or at least a few) can attack either the brazing or the carbide itself but nearly anything has to be soaked for an extended period.

Wiping or a short soak isn't likely to hurt anything no matter what you use. Within reason anyway, if you have some industrial chemicals or acids available that could be a different story but if you soak a bit or blade in acid and then run it then Darwin was right after all.

Joe

[David DeCristoforo]

"The safest method would be to wipe when the bit is not spinning!"

Ahhh.... That's my problem! Thanx for the tip!

[Rob Cooper]

I soak the bearing with wd-40 and turn it on, the cement usually flies right off. If necessary spray the bearing while the bit is spinning. After having a clogged bearing ruin a few edges, I am in the habit of hitting the bit with lubricant every 8 ft or so.

[Gene Howe]

I ruined a few bearings by soaking them in lacquer thinner. Tech at Freud said that there is a lubricant in them that thinner washes away.
Now I use 409 and a brass brush. It's great for saw blades and it doesn't hurt the pocket book as much as some other dedicated cleaners.

[Jim O'Dell]

I usually use some mineral spirits on an old sock, and carefully wipe the bearing and cutter surfaces. I wonder if waiting a day or two would help the glue not cake up on the cutter and bearing surface? I haven't had enough patience yet to try that theory!! Jim.

[Steve Leverich]

I work as an industrial instrumentation/control tech at a large exotic metals plant - one combination to stay AWAY from is any copper-based metal (like brazed connections) and ammonia. Ammoniated cleaning agents will eventually weaken a brazed joint, and I would think that eventually it could result in the carbide leaving the bit at a high rate of speed in a random direction.

I second the recommendation of NOT getting any solvents into bearings, INCLUDING WD-40, which is NOT a lubricant... Steve

[Karl Brogger]

Helps alot if you clean any excess glue off of the surface. Its a good thing to do while killing time waiting for the glue to dry before you stick it. Also, not getting too crazy with how much glue you spray down helps too.

[Steve Clardy]

I just peel the glue off with my fingernail. :rolleyes:

[Tom Walz]

Same as a saw blade:
http://www.carbideprocessors.com/tech_saw_blade_index.htm (http://www.carbideprocessors.com/tech_saw_blade_index.htm)