Need router table ideas

[Andy Favors]

Ok, I have just bought a Hitachi KM12VC router combo. I haven't even had a chance to use it yet. I am trying to decide if it's best for me to make a table for it, or buy a storebought one. It will have to be very easy to store, because I don't have a shop. I will have to store it in a small closet. So fold up legs (or no legs at all) would be the best for me.

If it came to me making one, what is recommended for the table part? Also, I can't seem to find one of the plates that the router attaches to, and easily lifts out of the table. Is there a certain place that is recommended to buy all the parts? I also would like to have a couple T tracks in the table. I posted asking help on another forum, but never got a response after over a week, I'm hoping I can have better luck on this forum. Help a router newbie out? :D Thanks.

[Brian Kent]

Some people here have made very useful router tables using a router attached under a piece of mdf. The fence is a straight clamped on board. Makes for an awfully cheap and useful start. Works with or without a T-track.

I bought a lift-out plate online but have never needed to install it.

[Andy Favors]

The reason I'm wanting the plate, is because of the storage situation. I'd have to take it out since more than likely the table will be on it's end when being stored. Do you remember where you got the plate at?

[Brian Kent]

I hate to admit it, but something good came out of Harbor Freight:

http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=router+plate&Submit=Go

Looks as solid as what I have seen at woodworking stores and conventions.

[David Christopher]

Andy, my first RT top was made from melamine...it is strong, easy to machine and a slick surface....as far as the plate goes you can make your own with thicker grade plexiglass from the big box stores or you can buy from any wood working store

good luck

[Brian Kent]

By the way, welcome to the Creek, Andy! What part of the world do you live in this winter, the cold part or the wet part or the windy part?

Two weeks ago I was from the hot part.

[Clint Schlosser]

I would ask if you have a tablesaw yet because there are some good options for replacing one of the wings with a router table. I just bought the benchdog cast iron (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005RHP5?tag=demechman-20&camp=0&creative=0&linkCode=as1&creativeASIN=B00005RHP5&adid=0W3QGDRCB9JFCNG4EFZJ&) one and I will probably post a review of it once I install it and use it.

[Andy Favors]

By the way, welcome to the Creek, Andy! What part of the world do you live in this winter, the cold part or the wet part or the windy part?

Two weeks ago I was from the hot part.

I'm from the, don't know what it wants to do part, Arkansas, :D. Bad BAD ice a couple weeks ago, and almost 70 the other day, mid 40's tomorrow. So yeah, lol


I would ask if you have a tablesaw yet because there are some good options for replacing one of the wings with a router table. I just bought the benchdog cast iron (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005RHP5?tag=demechman-20&camp=0&creative=0&linkCode=as1&creativeASIN=B00005RHP5&adid=0W3QGDRCB9JFCNG4EFZJ&) one and I will probably post a review of it once I install it and use it.

I do have a table saw, this one (http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW745-10-Inch-Compact-Capacity/dp/B000HXT2N6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1234581782&sr=1-1), but what you showed looks a bit more than what I'm wanting to spend. Thanks though.

I may go to harbor freight tomorrow to see what that router plate looks like. Just out of curiosity. You are right though, hard to find something that's of good quality there.

[Stephen Edwards]

If you have a HF store near you it's worth going to check out this plate. It ain't gonna be top of the line but if it's flat, it'll work for your purposes as a starter table. Though HF does have a lot of junk, they also have a few gems in their stores, for the money spent.

For the top, drop by a local cabinet shop and try to get a sink cutout, two would be preferable. Laminate them together so that you would have a 1 1/2 inch top with both both the top side and bottom side of the top covered with plastic laminate (more likely to remain flat). Then band the edges with some wood and you're good to go. If the cabinet shop will give you the cutouts, they likely will, and if you have some scrap laying around for banding the table, you've now got less than $25 in your table and HF plate.

When you get to that point, check back here and ask for instructions on how to cut the hole in the top for the router plate. I just did that operation myself following techniques learned here at the Creek. Worked like a breeze!

For another 25 bucks you can buy a pair of folding saw horses or look around for a used shop mate to put the table on.

Rockler frequently has the t-track kits on sale for 20 bucks. That comes with enough track to hold your fence and the knobs, handles and hardware to mount a fence. Or, for starters, you can do like the other person said and use clamps and a straight board for a starter fence.

Good luck with your project!

[Chris Kennedy]

I bought a Rockler table and just the table -- no legs. I have put a couple of hooks in it, and it hangs on the wall. When I need it, I clamp it to a Workmate, then put it away. It is great for saving on space.

Cheers,

Chris

[Myk Rian]

Doubled up 3/4" MDF makes a great top. A plate from HF or 3/8" plexiglass for the insert. You won't find that at the box stores. A collapsible box for the base, and you're done. A straight piece of stock works great for a fence.

You don't have to spend a lot or go into overload to make a router table. My first one was a sink cutout.

[Craig T. Smith]

Andy, My first table is a small skill table I got at the blue Borg. I bought the kit just for the router and the table has seen so much use I'm in the planning stages of a full sized Cab. .But back to the point. I've seen the small tables on the craig's list and pawn shops for 20 bucks or so . You might think about one of these. Happy woodworking( Oh BTW welcome to the Creek), Craig

[Andy Favors]

If you have a HF store near you it's worth going to check out this plate. It ain't gonna be top of the line but if it's flat, it'll work for your purposes as a starter table. Though HF does have a lot of junk, they also have a few gems in their stores, for the money spent.

For the top, drop by a local cabinet shop and try to get a sink cutout, two would be preferable. Laminate them together so that you would have a 1 1/2 inch top with both both the top side and bottom side of the top covered with plastic laminate (more likely to remain flat). Then band the edges with some wood and you're good to go. If the cabinet shop will give you the cutouts, they likely will, and if you have some scrap laying around for banding the table, you've now got less than $25 in your table and HF plate.

When you get to that point, check back here and ask for instructions on how to cut the hole in the top for the router plate. I just did that operation myself following techniques learned here at the Creek. Worked like a breeze!

For another 25 bucks you can buy a pair of folding saw horses or look around for a used shop mate to put the table on.

Rockler frequently has the t-track kits on sale for 20 bucks. That comes with enough track to hold your fence and the knobs, handles and hardware to mount a fence. Or, for starters, you can do like the other person said and use clamps and a straight board for a starter fence.

Good luck with your project!

I'm on my way to harbor freight now, a bit of a drive (about an hour) but there are other things I can do while I'm over there. If you would, show me the link showing how to do the cutout. I'd greatly appreciate it. That's one part that has me wondering on what to do.


I bought a Rockler table and just the table -- no legs. I have put a couple of hooks in it, and it hangs on the wall. When I need it, I clamp it to a Workmate, then put it away. It is great for saving on space.

Cheers,

Chris

That got me thinking also. I have a stand that goes with my table saw, a fold up stand made specifically for that. I could also use this stand for the router table. I'll just build to fit.


Doubled up 3/4" MDF makes a great top. A plate from HF or 3/8" plexiglass for the insert. You won't find that at the box stores. A collapsible box for the base, and you're done. A straight piece of stock works great for a fence.

You don't have to spend a lot or go into overload to make a router table. My first one was a sink cutout.

And on this note, I do believe I'll go ahead and try MDF. I don't see it bending, especially doubled up. What is a good size to make? 2' x 3'? Or is that too big? I'm guessing it's just about right.

Ok off to harbor freight and lowes I go. I'll check back on here with my phone to see if there are any other suggestions while I'm out. Thanks a LOT for the help so far. This site is much better than the other one, :D

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,
I looked at several options.
I ended up with a Rockler #1 top that came with a 1/4" thick aluminum plate & built a cabinet underneath it.

Rockler no longer offers it though.

I went aluminum instead of other materials for the plate due to the fact that the aluminum is thinner - more height for the bit.

That extra 1/8" doesn't sound like much - right up until the first time you need it.

[Stephen Edwards]

I'm on my way to harbor freight now, a bit of a drive (about an hour) but there are other things I can do while I'm over there. If you would, show me the link showing how to do the cutout. I'd greatly appreciate it. That's one part that has me wondering on what to do.

Here's the link:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=72802&highlight=router+plate+template

I made my template with 3 long sides and one short side. I didn't even screw the pieces together. I simply attached them with two sided tape to the table.

Feel free to PM me if you need to.

[Greg Hines, MD]

One thing you might want to invest in is a workmate to support your table, regardless of what you make it out of. MDF is fine, melamine is slipperier but not quite as strong. My tabletop is melamine that I reinforced the underside with plywood. Regardless, put a couple of cleats on the bottom of it, so that the clamps on the Workmate can grip it, and you are in business with a very sturdy portable table.

As to fences, a long straight 2x4 is as good as anything, with a pair of clamps to hold it in place.

One thing you will probably want to do sooner rather than later is to figure out some kind of dust control. I assume that with your closet shop you will be working outside, but routers still make a mess of chips in your way if you don't have a way to get rid of them.

Doc

[Andy Favors]

well, just got back from harbor freight. My store didn't carry the plate. So I'll have to order one online, or if someone knows of one better, for around the same price, or a bit more, that would work too. I went ahead and got some MDF while I was around a Lowes. So now it's just down to the plate.

[Andy Favors]

Ok, now for the newbie dumb question #3256, lol. I didn't think about getting a pattern bit while I was in the civilized world today. So i was looking at MLCS's site for one since they offer free shipping. On this page...... http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_flush.html, what does the Large Dia. mean? I'm assuming that's the size of the router bit from edge to edge, am I correct? If so, what is a good size for a plate to sit on? I'm assuming the bigger the better. But is there a generic rule to say it's the best?

And I've been looking for router plates still online. I tried to order the one from harbor freight, but their site is being difficult, and won't accept my order. The MLCS plate looks like it's more than likely the same one, and is only 5 dollars more, at 35 dollars after you consider the harbor freight shipping charge. Here is the MLCS plate...... http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/routacc1.html. I also seen a rocker alluminum plate for 48 after shipping, would this be a better way to go? And if so, does the bolt pattern, i'm assuming that's what it's called, on my hitachi KMC12V match any of the other routers listed on the pre drilled ones? Here is the link to the rockler...... http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1385. It looks like the MLCS one comes with more inserts, so I'll probably go with that, just to get started, and if I need to, I can upgrade later. Ok, I think that's all for now. I appreciate everyone's help with an extreme router newbie. Thanks!

[Stephen Edwards]

I also seen a rocker alluminum plate for 48 after shipping, would this be a better way to go? And if so, does the bolt pattern, i'm assuming that's what it's called, on my hitachi KMC12V match any of the other routers listed on the pre drilled ones? Here is the link to the rockler...... http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1385.

Before buying this Rockler plate I'd call them and ask what size plate it is. If it's the 8" x 11" I highly suggest that you don't buy it. They had a bad batch of those plates. I ordered one. They sent me three defective plates. Eventually, to make it right, they shipped me a larger plate that was a decent plate. You can read the thread here that details my experience:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=102976

Good luck with your choice!

[Andy Favors]

I had actually just read your post about that. You got patience! lol. I think I'll just get the MLCS phenolic plate. It should do me fine for now, especially considering the router will not stay in the table for long periods of time. So I'll get that and the pattern bit, but I still need to confirm if I'm right on what Large Dia. means before I order. Thanks for the link.

[Stephen Edwards]

I had actually just read your post about that. You got patience! lol. I think I'll just get the MLCS phenolic plate. It should do me fine for now, especially considering the router will not stay in the table for long periods of time. So I'll get that and the pattern bit, but I still need to confirm if I'm right on what Large Dia. means before I order. Thanks for the link.


Yes, that's what large diameter means. For a flush cut pattern bit it means the diameter of the cutter and the bearing guide.

If you're going to use the pattern bit for making the hole in the table to accept your router plate you need to be sure that whatever bit you buy is the same diameter as the radius of the corners of the plate that you'll be installing. If you're going to order from MLCS call their CS dept to be sure what size the radius of the corners of their plate is so that you can buy the appropriate sized flush cut pattern bit.

Remember there are two ways to cut the hole. You can do a through cut the same size as the plate and buy or make some levelers.........or you can cut it with a ledge, like a rabbet.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,
That link to the Rockler plate is for the one that fits the Rockler #1 table top.

It's the older one that is indeed 8x11 and is now discontinued.
I'd recommend not buying one if you don't have a Rockler #1 table top, since it's an odd size.
The $39.00 price is a red herring also, since you'll want to include the $9.99 opening cut out template.

The new Rockler plate is made by Benchdog - well - Rockler bought Benchdog, so I guess it's really a Rockler plate.

The new one Rockler has is this one:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21299&filter=router%20plate

Also - if you have a Sears Hardware store nearby, you might want to stop in and have a look there.
I know the one down the street from me had a 3/8" phonelic insert for under $20.00.

I was all set to get one until the closeout deal on the Rockler #1 came along and I went that way instead.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I'm on my way to harbor freight now, a bit of a drive (about an hour) but there are other things I can do while I'm over there. If you would, show me the link showing how to do the cutout. I'd greatly appreciate it. That's one part that has me wondering on what to do.



That got me thinking also. I have a stand that goes with my table saw, a fold up stand made specifically for that. I could also use this stand for the router table. I'll just build to fit.



And on this note, I do believe I'll go ahead and try MDF. I don't see it bending, especially doubled up. What is a good size to make? 2' x 3'? Or is that too big? I'm guessing it's just about right.

Ok off to harbor freight and lowes I go. I'll check back on here with my phone to see if there are any other suggestions while I'm out. Thanks a LOT for the help so far. This site is much better than the other one, :D

24" x 36" is a very reasonable table size. The other thing to consider is whether you are going to put the router in the middle of the table, or offset to one side or the other. That gives you a wide side and a narrow side, for routing panels if you need the support, and for keeping your workpiece close to the edge if you don't need that kind of support (routing moldings, smaller pieces, etc).

Doc

[Andy Favors]

Yes, that's what large diameter means. For a flush cut pattern bit it means the diameter of the cutter and the bearing guide.

If you're going to use the pattern bit for making the hole in the table to accept your router plate you need to be sure that whatever bit you buy is the same diameter as the radius of the corners of the plate that you'll be installing. If you're going to order from MLCS call their CS dept to be sure what size the radius of the corners of their plate is so that you can buy the appropriate sized flush cut pattern bit.

Remember there are two ways to cut the hole. You can do a through cut the same size as the plate and buy or make some levelers.........or you can cut it with a ledge, like a rabbet.

I just got a response from MLCS, and they said that the radius is 1/4 inch. Surely that doesn't mean I need a 1/4inch bit, would it mean an inch bit?

[Stephen Edwards]

I just got a response from MLCS, and they said that the radius is 1/4 inch. Surely that doesn't mean I need a 1/4inch bit, would it mean an inch bit?

Andy,

The diameter of the bit that you're using for the "finished cut" in the opening of the router table where the plate will be installed needs to match the radius of the corners of the router plate itself in order to get a perfect fit in the rounded corners. So, if the corner radius of the plate is 1/4, then yes, you'll need a 1/4 diameter router bit for the corners of the hole. Maybe someone else on here would know something that I don't know. But that's how I know to do it.

Keep asking if you have more questions. There's lots of knowledgeable and experienced folks here at the Creek, many from whom I have learned a lot myself.

[Andy Favors]

How important are the corners to be an exact fit? I'm not really finding a 1/4" pattern bit anywhere. I could always use a 1/2" and chisel out the corners right? As long as the 4 long sides are perfect, i wouldn't think it would be too much of a problem. I could be wrong though, thoughts?

[Stephen Edwards]

How important are the corners to be an exact fit? I'm not really finding a 1/4" pattern bit anywhere. I could always use a 1/2" and chisel out the corners right? As long as the 4 long sides are perfect, i wouldn't think it would be too much of a problem. I could be wrong though, thoughts?

i think it would really annoy you if the corners of your plate don't fit properly. MLCS has two 1/4" diameter flush cut pattern bits. The item numbers are 5498 and 5499. I'd get the 5499 'cause it has a 1" cutting length.

That's assuming that you're going to do a flush cut the same size as the plate all the way through the table and make your own "ledge" with levelers to level the plate with the top of the table. If you plan on cutting a rabbet in the table (leaving material for the ledge) then you could use the 5498 which has a 1/2" cutting depth.

PM me if you need a step by step process. I just did this same thing on my new table. It really ain't complicated, you just have to do it carefully and think through it.