SPECIALTY HINGE: Not sure what will work...

[Tom Overthere]

I need a concealed hinge that will:

1) Open an inset door 90-degrees or more.

2) Allow for NO GAP / NO CLEARANCE at both left and right edges of door.

Here's a link to a table depicting BLUM concealed hinges. Can somebody take a look and put me out of misery. I'm just not sure which (or IF) one of these will do the trick: BLUM HINGES (http://www.cabinetparts.com/shop_2008/categories/?cat=306&manufacturer=Blum)

See image below. If it fails to appear hit your browser's REFRESH key or your keyboard F5 key.

http://www.tomburgessdesign.com/forums/wood/hinge_concealed.gif


FULL-CRANKED? HALF-CRANKED? STRAIGHT-ARM? (this is a link):
(http://www.cabinetparts.com/inc/pdf/auto/5b8f6735f96559ab25c0ee0ff1e581c2.pdf) I see the differences in design, but don't get which (if any) will solve my problem...duh

[james mcgrew]

i have used blum as our primary hinge for 15+ years, the question is? is your cabinet faceframe or euro? both can inlay a door. the full crank will do both and the straight will do the framless with the inlay plate i will get a blum book out at home tonight and show you, first though what type of cabinet are you doing face or frameless

jim

[Tom Overthere]

Thanks, James. That's exactly the kind of input I was hoping to get.

The design is a Euro-style cabinet - with no face frame.

If you're willing to dig out a catalog, I'm HAPPY :D to wait for that! In general though, it sounds like the FULL-CRANK model will work for the Euro frame and would also work for a Face Frame, with the addition of an INLAY PLATE...

Please let me know if I'm wrong.

[james mcgrew]

when ever we have done a new situation we have done a dummy to test all tollerances, i am sure we have on for this application.

check out pages 11,12 start there

http://www.blum.com/pdf/BUS/1046_hinge_b/1046_hinges_b.pdf

we use the cliptop as our standard, vost a little more but much more versitile.

here is blum

http://www.blum.com/us/en/02/30/40/index.php

if you want to pop the door away from the frame then look at the 170 degree hinges

jim

[Tom Overthere]

Thanks a lot, James.

Trying to imagine the hinge operation based on those Blum diagrams is tough. Add to that decifering the dimensions in metric and the whole thing becomes downright painful. :D

The only reason I think I need to push the door away from the hinge-side frame is because there's no clearance there between door and frame, and I want the absolute minimum "reveal" (the gap between door and frame, on left and right sides of door).

So I'm thinking the FULL-CRANKED CLIP top 107 will do it (bottom-right corner of page 11). What say you?

[james mcgrew]

when we are looking for tight reveal we work up a dummy as the hinge setbacks remain the same and table saw off the inside reveal (between two doors) untill we get what we want. you can be tooo tight and you will chip the edge of your door.

if you want true tight look into soss hinges!!

jim

[Tom Overthere]

Thank you, James. I will follow your SOSS lead.
I appreciate your advice on this.

[james mcgrew]

with a soss you can get tight and bevel back the opposite side of the door for openining clearance

now this is tight!!

jim

[Tom Overthere]

James ==

I got a look at the SOSS website and catalog. Amazing hinges, BUT they require such a deep mortise.

They appear to be ideal for edge-to-edge situations, like when a door is inset in a face frame: 3/4" edge of door butts against 3/4" edge of face frame.

~ See my drawing in post #1, hit keyboard F5 to refresh the image if doesn't appear ~
In my case the hinge side of the cabinet is turned perpendicular to the face of the door. The sidewall is only 3/4" thick, too thin to accommodate the SOSS's deep mortise plus screw length.

I wish they made a hybrid, where the door half takes a mortise, but the jamb half mounts on the jamb surface. Am I missing something? Maybe they make such a thing :confused: and I'm just not seeing it...

[james mcgrew]

i have done this both ways

jim