Jointer/Planer combo vs standalone

[Dustin Powers]

What are the advantages & disadvantages of a combo Jointer/Planer? Here's a nice Grizzly:
http://grizzly.com/products/10-Jointer-Planer-Combo/G0675
I'm thinking at some point point I would like to resurface some old boards. I read the recent thread about using a wire brush and air compressor to clean the boards first. Even with that effort does it make sense to use a dedicated planer?

[Bob Luciano]

There was a thread a couple days back about a grizzly combo machine if I am not mistaken. Other machines were mentioned a couple of times. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=101348

[Joe Jensen]

I did a quick search of the forums by using the link in the blue bar at the top of the screen.

jointer combo standalone

yielded some very good threads. This is a hrad decision and I suggest reading all those older posts as not everyone responds every time the question is asked.

[Paul Greathouse]

Dustin

I purchased this 12" Jointer http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-Jointer-w-Spiral-Cutterhead/G0609X and this 20" Planer http://www.grizzly.com/products/20-Planer-w-Spiral-Cutterhead/G0454Z with the intention of getting the most Jointer and Planer for my money. I regularly surface rough lumber and need tools that have enough umph to get the job done.

The Jointer has just enough power for my liking with the 3hp motor. After using it, I wish there was a 5hp option for this jointer. The jointer does get the job done very well, I just wish I could feed a little faster. I have it set to take off 1/16" per pass.

The 5hp motor on the 20" Planer exceeds my expectations. I love it, especially since I am stepping up from a 12" Delta lunchbox planer. The motor has loads of power and gives a good finish. Not stain ready but definately 120 grit RO sander ready.

I went with seperate machines because I have the room for them and I don't like the idea of changing over no matter how fast it is on the combo machines.

I would not recommend the 10" combo that you posted if you plan on resurfacing alot of lumber with it. Unless your lumber is really narrow or you are really patient. I don't think you will be happy with the 2 1/2hp motor based on the experience I have with my tools power capabilities. I think you would be much happier with Grizzly's 12" combo http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-Jointer-Planer-w-Spiral-Cutterhead/G0634 with its 5hp motor if you are going to resurface alot of rough or old lumber.

I think the only reason to go with a combo is if you don't have the room for seperates or if you don't mind swapping bach and forth. Some people really don't mind the swap, I just don't think I would care for it, I'm too disorganized with my workflow and I like the convienence of the seperates.

[Barry Vabeach]

Dustin, the main advantage is space. A jointer and a planer are like a tablesaw in that you need space for feeding into the machine and space for the lumber to exit. In a J/P, you use the same floor space for infeed and outfeed for both planing and jointing - so not only do you save the footprint of one machine, you save at least some space for infeed and outfeed. The main disadvantage is that you can only use one at a time. While the changeover is very easy ( I have the Jet JJP 12 and takes about 1/2 a minute) you still end up organizing your work so you joint all the lumber, then run it through the planer, and you feel awfully stupid when you overlooked a piece and have to switch back and forth. If you buy a byrd head ( like the Grizzly 12 jointer ) there is also a significant cost savings between the J/P and standalone machines. Generally, a combo will have shorter jointer tables than an equivalent jointer ( though I don't think that has any practical impact for most woodworkers - the table on my combo is longer than the PM50 I had ) . The combo planer has dramatically shorter tables ( 15 Grizzly stand alone 42 inch long table, the 12 inch combo is 23 inches ) and a different mechanism - standalone planer usually has 4 column support for the table, the combo usually has a center column. I have never owned a stand alone planer and don't know how either of those 2 factors will affect its use, though the results I have gotten from my Jet have been very good. I don't know that it makes any difference, but with a combo you only have one set of knives, so in one way it will take twice the wear that a stand alone planer knives would get if you joint everything then run it through the planer, and if you dull the blades you can't use either until they are replaced. On the other hand, you will spend half as much time setting knives since you only have one cutter head .

[Jonathan Spool]

Dustin,
Once I figured out that I had the room for the stand alone jointer, and the fact that I already own a Dewalt D735 planer, I went with the stand alone over the combo primarilly for the extra length of the tables. I like having as much reference length as possible. Never heard anyone who had seperates, and plenty of room, say "I wish I had a combo machine"
Jonathan

[Bob Luciano]

Is space an issue or will you be able to attach infeed and outfeed tables to support the stock? Also keep in mind if a combo unit is down for any reason you are losing both applications. If you go with a combo machine pick a supplier with a good track record for having parts in stock. The last thread was an example of why that is important

[Curt Harms]

Dustin,
Never heard anyone who had seperates, and plenty of room, say "I wish I had a combo machine"
Jonathan

Room is one big factor. The other is jointer capacity. 12+" jointers ain't cheap unless you happen upon a vintage 1000 lb+ machine and have the means to move and possibly restore it . I have the Jet J/P. If I were in business with all day-everyday use the changeover would get tiresome unless I were a lot more organized than I am. Changing modes a half dozen times a day is no big deal, takes less than a minute. Changing modes a couple dozen times a day when time is money? That may be a different story.

Curt

[Craig McCormick]

I have a 12" combo J/P to save space. I am happy with my set up. Change over is quick.

Craig

[Rod Sheridan]

I have a Hammer A3-31 jointer/planer and am very happy with it.

I gave up a General 8" jointer and 14" planer to get the Hammer.

The Hammer produces a fantastic surface finish, and the planer is snipe free, not very little snipe, no snipe.

If bed length is an issue for you, purchase the additional clip on table extensions, although it hasn't been a problem for me.

I paid $4,000 for the A3-31, which is far less than my stand alone jointer and planer cost, and I've increased the capacity and performance, while saving shop space.

Regards, Rod.

[Mike Wilkins]

My vote is for the combo option. 2 reasons for this: You get 2 machines in one footprint and save some space, and there is an advantage of having the same capacity in both modes. I currently have a 12" combo, and wish for something larger. There is a 14" wide mahogany slab in my storage that will have to be dressed with a drum sander due to lack of jointing/planing capacity.
As for length of beds that some have commented on; I regularly run 8-footers across the jointer without a problem,and my tables are nearly 60" in length.
Depending on your budget, there are many options. Fine Woodworking magazine highly rated the Minimax machine, and others are also in the mix.
Also, if you can get a copy of Woodworkers Journal, they had an article on combo j/p machines, and go into pros/cons of such a machine.
Good luck and watch those fingers.

[Dustin Powers]

Ok thanks for all the replies. It seems for what I will be doing a nice jointer/planer combo would give me a nicer high end jointer and save space for a small shop.
Question though! I'm still trying to learn when to use a jointer vs planer. If I have rough 4/4 stock with a slight bow I would go to the jointer and correct this? Why would I not just flip it over and joint the other side? Is the planer just used to get the correct thickness?
I think I know the answer I just need someone to tell me ;)!
Is this the same principal for jointing the edge of a board. Once I use the jointer to clean up an edge I then should go to a good table saw and cut it about 1/16" wider then final width running the jointed edge against the fence. Then joint the edge I just cut on the table saw down to final width. Is that correct?
Could someone explain this for me? Thanks!

[Dustin Powers]

Alrighty I figured it out before anyone replied. I'm sure most people understand this already but I found this video on youtube that gives a pretty decent explanation of how to square up a board:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pgkntouYr08&NR=1

Parallel is the key so that is why we use the planer after we run the face of a board through the jointer. Makes sense!

[Barry Vabeach]

Dustin, you are on it. The reason that a changeover can be an issue, is that most of us process lumber by using the table saw or bandsaw to cut the item to slightly oversize, then joint one side, then use the planer to get it to a consistent width. If you do all the pieces for a project in that order, the changeover is no issue. If on the other hand, you cut out the rails, then joint, then thickness, then cut out the stiles, then joint, then thickness, then cut out the draw sides, etc, you will be doing a lot of changing between jointing and planer. If you think out what needs to be planed ahead of time, it goes much quicker.

[Rod Sheridan]

Dustin, you are on it. The reason that a changeover can be an issue, is that most of us process lumber by using the table saw or bandsaw to cut the item to slightly oversize, then joint one side, then use the planer to get it to a consistent width. If you do all the pieces for a project in that order, the changeover is no issue. If on the other hand, you cut out the rails, then joint, then thickness, then cut out the stiles, then joint, then thickness, then cut out the draw sides, etc, you will be doing a lot of changing between jointing and planer. If you think out what needs to be planed ahead of time, it goes much quicker.

Not to mention that by planing all the pieces in one set up, they're all the same thickness.......Rod.

[Mike Wilkins]

It might help in the understanding if we used the same terminology used in the European countries. Over there, they use 'planer' to signify getting a flat face on one side of the board, eliminating cup, ripples, etc. Then on to the 'thickneser', or what we call a planer, to get to the correct board thickness.

[Ed Calkins]

Wow, the light goes on. I think they have the terminology wired in and we are screwed up. The planer should do what you would use a plane for (we call it a jointer). Oh well, lets not change it now, that would be a major rewrite of the Griz catalog. Ed

[John Thompson]

It might help in the understanding if we used the same terminology used in the European countries. Over there, they use 'planer' to signify getting a flat face on one side of the board, eliminating cup, ripples, etc. Then on to the 'thickneser', or what we call a planer, to get to the correct board thickness.

They generally refer to a "surface planer" which is what we call jointer and the thicknesser as you mentioned we call planer.

Sarge..

[Curt Harms]

Not to mention that by planing all the pieces in one set up, they're all the same thickness.......Rod.

Repeatability is certainly a consideration. That's the reason I figured out a way to mount a Digital readout not long after getting the machine.

[Rod Sheridan]

Repeatability is certainly a consideration. That's the reason I figured out a way to mount a Digital readout not long after getting the machine.


Good point Curt.

You can also order the machine with a readout built in, that's what I did, it was about $110 if I remember correctly.......Rod.