Shapton Diamond Reference Lapping Plate vs. Diamond on Glass Lapping Plate?

[George Israel]

Shapton Diamond Reference Lapping Plate vs. Diamond on Glass Lapping Plate?

Is it worth paying the extra $200 for reference plate, is it superior

http://shaptonstones.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=164_165&zenid=4522eb82b53e899041a295f4fe83a94f

[Tom Godley]

George I can not answer your question -- but I would recommend that you call Harrison direct - he is a real tool lover!


I just received my set of stones yesterday -- I also purchased his video and have his skate on order.

I saw him demonstrating the system two weeks ago -- while I believe he had the more expensive unit siting on the table he was using the less expensive (if you can call it that) unit to work over the stones.

I did not purchase one because I had already spent too much on chisels :)

While I know I will eventually need to get one I will be able to use the stones for a while before that becomes a necessity!

I will also tell you that he did not suggest the more expensive one to me - so I did not even ask him about it.

[george wilson]

I'd NEVER spend that kind of money on a lapping plate that by nature wears itself out . As soon as you start lapping,the plate loses accuracy. Use flat glass. It wears out,too,but easier to replace. You can buy import granite small surface plates MUCH cheaper than those plates,if you must have certifiable flatness. After a little use,that flatness is gone!! Be sure to use the surface equally all over to delay wearing it swaybacked.

What are you lapping that you need that accuracy? Why not use spray adhesive on wet or dry paper stuck on a surface plate. Actually,Gesswein and,I think Riogrande sell mylar diamond paper sheets if you MUST have diamond. They aren't real cheap,but the surface plate will keep things flat.

[Fred Krow]

The more expensive DRLP has two surfaces, one for flattening chisel and plane blade backs and the other for flattening stones. The glass diamond plate has only one surface for flattening stones.

The relative value to a WW is up to you.

I use the DMT solid steel plates for the same purpose and I have some ductile iron plates ground flat at a machine shop for flattening stones and chisel backs.

Regards,
FK

[Danny Burns]

Try posting your question at this site.

http://www.japanesetools.com/phpBB2/

Under tool sharpening.

http://www.japanesetools.com/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=2&sid=162c94a18e8af76cf7d56675ddec7ebd

At a certain point, accuracy of your lap is unnecessary as the first swipe of a chisel or plane blade will remove any very fine tolerances immediately.

Here is what I found searching the keyword lap.

http://www.japanesetools.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=683&highlight=lap

http://www.japanesetools.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=251&highlight=lap

http://www.japanesetools.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1765&highlight=lap


I have a granite surface reference plate, and I don't use any glue/adhesive sprays as they are not needed. I just wet the SiC paper, wet/dry and the stiction/suction from the water holds it in place.
The plate does not loose it's accuracy if you do not let any abrasive come in contact with it. If the paper starts to dry, I just give it a spray with a water bottle.

The benefit of the laps is that you can leave your stone in place, and bring the lap to the stone and flatten it in situ, which is a lot more convenient.

If you want to go with a complete Shapton system then I would get this one.

http://shaptonstones.com/index.php?main_page=page_3

I would also get a granite plate for the coarser stones as they are not recommended for the diamond lap DRLP.
"The DRLP is used to flatten 1000 grit to 30000 grit Shapton® stones. Never use the DRLP to lap stones coarser than 1000 grit."

From this page http://shaptonstones.com/index.php?main_page=page_2&zenid=4522eb82b53e899041a295f4fe83a94f

[Derek Cohen]

Shapton Diamond Reference Lapping Plate vs. Diamond on Glass Lapping Plate?

Is it worth paying the extra $200 for reference plate, is it superior

http://shaptonstones.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=164_165&zenid=4522eb82b53e899041a295f4fe83a94f

George

The answer is actually simple. The former is used in a dual role - to flatten the backs of blades on one side, and to flatten waterstones on the other. The latter only does the waterstones. You are paying the extra for the ability to lap blade backs. So the question is "do you need to do this, and are you prepared to pay $200 to do so?".

I have the Glass Lapping Plate. The only reason I own it is that I purchased a brand new one reasonably from a deceased estate. I had earlier had the opportunity to compare one (while demonstrating for LN at a woodshow) to my Extra Coarse DMT diamond stone. I was impressed by the Glass Lapping Plate. It seemed to cut easier and was more comfortable to use.

I agree with George. You can get the same result with sandpaper glued to glass (which I have also used). The Lapping Plate will likely last forever if you only use it on waterstones. It is also better designed than sandpaper on glass. In the end it just comes down to what you want.

Regards from Perth

Derek