Topping off a workbench top

[larry cronkite]

After building a Norm inspired workbench that couldn't be used for serious woodworking (no overhang for clamps) and several roll around cabinets, I have decided to build a serious (to me) workbench that will also be a semi-permanent home for my chop saw, have a face vise and storage for my wood scraps (I'm such a pack rat). It's not as heavy duty as those that Chris S. builds and demonstrates but it is securely anchored between two steel posts in the basement.
My question has to do with the top. Having read many posts about the pros and cons of different woods for the top I decided to use plain old 2X4 stud material milled flat to 1-1/4 X 3-1/4 on edge and put hardwood flooring on top of that.
Looking at flooring at the local HD and Lowes I find that there are basically two types - real wood and laminate. I used the key test and the real wood left me underwhelmed (too easily scratched) - so it looks like I'm going to use the laminate.
Any comments and suggestions (especially on gluing down the laminate) would be greatly appreciated.

[Joe Chritz]

I don't have any on the laminate but some is designed to be glued like that. I expect you could use some kind of flooring mastic to secure it down.

My personal opinion is to not re design the wheel or make it overly complex. Grab a big chunk of hardboard, trim to fit (either edge banded first or not) and either glue it down or pin it with some brads. I prefer to pin it because you can switch it out when you want.

I have done this a few times with tops made from a couple pieces of 3/4 plywood. It works great, is cheap, tough and easy to change if ever needed.

Joe

[Paul Demetropoulos]

I do very much the same thing as Joe and for the same reasons. The hardboard is easy to clean and a snap to change out. I attach mine with small brass screws countersunk around the edge. An errant blade won't be damaged by the brass screw heads.

When it's time to replace the top, I use the old one as a template for the screw holes.

[Sonny Edmonds]

+ another one for hardboard.
It's shop furniture. It is going to get messed up somewhat. So make the bulk of the top easy to repair/replace.
Use pretty for the projects going out of the shop. :)

[Jim Becker]

Gluing anything to pine other than pine with the same grain direction is likely going to have some interesting wood movement issues. I, too, will suggest a replaceable "topper" of 1/4" hard board contained by an apron that is raised that same 1/4". Very effective, both in function and cost. If that's not to your liking, frankly, a double layer of 3/4" MDF will provide a nice surface for this bench, too...that's what I have on my own cantilevered miter station, although only a single layer. It's been working just fine since about 2000 and it's only occasionally coated with some BLO.

[michael osadchuk]

....I would not use any topping to the laminated base.... the laminated base at 3 1/4" is thick enough, no wood movement issue because of two wood species and likely easily to do periodic, minor reflattening of the surface on the laminated "base"......

.... but if using "stud" grade 2 by 4s, these are typically pretty high in moisture content so you want to either test them with a moisture meter (cheap ones are available these days) and/or let them dry out for a couple of months.....

good luck

michael

[Pete Shermet]

Go for tempered hardboard durable and easy to change out. A coat of poly and glue usually comes off easy.
Regards
Pete

[Paul Demetropoulos]

...that's what I have on my own cantilevered miter station, although only a single layer. It's been working just fine since about 2000 and it's only occasionally coated with some BLO.

Jim,

I'm shocked and dismayed, using blow in the shop, and a moderator no less. But I guess that explains the enormous volume of posts. I can't keep my mouth shut when I do that stuff either.

[Sonny Edmonds]

Umm, Uhh, Oh My!
And with the horses around!!
I.. uhh... I plead the fifth. :eek:

Oh, the sins of my youth...:rolleyes:

LOL!! Good catch Paul. :)

[Justin Green]

I just built a bathroom vanity for the guest bath and used red oak solid wood flooring for the top, nailed to 3/4" birch plywood for a substrate. It finished really well. As opposed to the mdf or hardboard, the solid wood flooring can be refinished many times before you would need to replace it, if you're wanting a really nice look. Here, the solid wood flooring is cheaper than the nice looking laminate, which can't really be refinished well at all because of the types of industrial coatings and processes they use.

Just sand down the flooring and refinish. To me, a few nicks and gouges, which will happen, add character and interest.

[Prashun Patel]

Grab a big chunk of hardboard, trim to fit (either edge banded first or not) and either glue it down or pin it with some brads. I prefer to pin it because you can switch it out when you want.

Wow, I thought I was the only one who loves hardboard. So cheap, so disposable! I know lotsa people here like to make their bench tops furniture grade, but I prefer to beat it up and use it as a drop cloth during a project and then just start new next time!

[Chiz Eisenhuth]

Wow, I thought I was the only one who loves hardboard. So cheap, so disposable! I know lotsa people here like to make their bench tops furniture grade, but I prefer to beat it up and use it as a drop cloth during a project and then just start new next time!


Ditto, Shawn. I like to rig up some sort of dust collection when I'm using a hand-held router and I can readily accomplish that with some scraps, sometimes a bungee and a few drywall screws driven directly into the tempered hardboard top. The little holes automatically fill with dust and crud and they're hardly noticeable. Yep, my bench is a tool.;)

[patrick anderson]

I'd suggest looking at a sheet of Homosote. I know they stock it in MD (not like that means much) but its forgiving like hardboard but actually has grip. Very usefull if your sanding something

[Michael Wetzel]

I top all of my workbenchs, outfeed tables, etc with hardboard. You can't beat $8-9 a sheet for the heavier grade.