Another 50

[Larry Gottlieb]

Tomorrow, I will mail a box of 50 more pens.
Larry

[Larry Gottlieb]

The last scan of 10 pens was too large to get in first message.
Larry

[Gary Salisbury]

Nice work, Larry! Could you tell me how you create the red, white and blue banding in the pen? I assume it is Corian that is laminated to the wood. Are there any precautions or concerns glueing Corian and wood togeter?


Gary in San Diego:cool:

[Ken Salisbury]

Nice work, Larry! Could you tell me how you create the red, white and blue banding in the pen? I assume it is Corian that is laminated to the wood. Are there any precautions or concerns glueing Corian and wood togeter?


Gary in San Diego:cool:
See this page on my web site for detailed instructions and photos:

http://www.oldrebelworkshop.com/penconstruction.htm

[Larry Gottlieb]

Hi Gary:

You can glue the RW&B pieces together as Ken shows.

Another way that I also use is to drill (9/32" bit) the 1/2" thick corian square, then cut slices to size. I use 1/8" thick pieces. I use a bandsaw sled for this.

I then glue them to the wood blank and to each other as I glue in the tubes. The end of the blank is squared using a sanding jig.
I use polyurethane glue and clamp overnight.

I use the same method for gluing any other bands to the center or ends.

Of course the blank has to be cut shorter to accomodate the length of the band.

It's easier to do than to describe.

Larry

[Stuart Johnson]

I don't have too much of a problem making a band but do run into issues if I want to make a RWB top piece. I square up the end and glue on the Corian then cut the blank to the proper length. My problem comes in when I drill the blank if it angles any once the tube is glued in and trimmed the Corian will be at a slight angle and just a bit is very noticable. I might be mistaken but I don't think I have ever drilled a perfectly straight blank, which might be a whole new thread.

Stuart

[Larry Gottlieb]

Stuart:

You are right. Gluing the corian to the end before drilling will almost always give an angled joint.

The end of the wood has to be squared to the drilled hole and tube.
I use a sanding jig with a loose tube to square the end that I am going to glue the corian to.You could use an end mill if it is large enough also using a loose tube.

Another way to do this is: After turning the wood down to a little over the final size, use a parting tool to cut off the proper amount of wood. Then, when you glue the corian to the wood and tube, it will be at right angles and you will have a level joint.

Is this clear?

Larry

[Ken Salisbury]

Stuart:

You are right. Gluing the corian to the end before drilling will almost always give an angled joint.

The end of the wood has to be squared to the drilled hole and tube.
I do not have the problem described. I simply cut the blanks "dead square", glue on the layer Corian and drill "dead perpendicular". - No problem :)

[Stuart Johnson]

Well, Ken, that is one way to do it but I think I'll give Larry's way a try first. I don't want to break any habits by cutting or drilling stuff accurately.

Stuart
Get full use of your tools.. measure once - cut twice.

[Steve Clardy]

Looking good Larry!!!!!!:D
Steve

[Larry Gottlieb]

I do not have the problem described. I simply cut the blanks "dead square", glue on the layer Corian and drill "dead perpendicular". - No problem :)
Ken: All of my blanks are cut from harvested wood using a band saw. I am unable to always get absolutely squared sides of equal size. Using my method works best with the irregularly shaped blanks.

Larry

[Ken Salisbury]

Ken: All of my blanks are cut from harvested wood using a band saw. I am unable to always get absolutely squared sides of equal size. Using my method works best with the irregularly shaped blanks.

Larry
I understand that very well (btdt). I was referring to the original question about layering some r/w/b corian pieces to the end of a blank and drilling straight. I have done it 100's and 100's of times - works well for me. - I also cut most of my blanks on a BS, but use my RAS to cut to length with "square" ends. If the laminated Corian piece is a consistant thickness then it can't leave an angled joint. Like the ones in this thread: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=9761

[Stuart Johnson]

Ken, I think the problem comes with the drilling perpendicular. Any slight misalignment of the drill or any wander caused by grain will pull it off just a bit. In effect a centered hole in the top will be off center at the bottom. This causes an angle when turned. The ability to get the hole dead straight is what I can't seem to accomplish. I do feel this is something mechanical that I'm not doing.

Stuart

[Ken Salisbury]

Ken, I think the problem comes with the drilling perpendicular. Any slight misalignment of the drill or any wander caused by grain will pull it off just a bit. In effect a centered hole in the top will be off center at the bottom. This causes an angle when turned. The ability to get the hole dead straight is what I can't seem to accomplish. I do feel this is something mechanical that I'm not doing.

StuartStuart - you are absolutely correct. An accurate drilling set-up and good sharp drill bits are essential. Over the years I have developed a technique which allows somewhere in the 97% range of being dead perpendicular through the blank. I am not saying it can be done without top notch tools/equipment and set-up. Allowing even the slightest wandering of the bit when the hole is first started is disasterous. It just takes practice. After 2000 pens (4000 holes) it gets to be a "piece of cake" :) .