Jack Hogoboom
07-05-2004, 5:08 PM
Attached are pictures of my second and third bowls, which I turned this weekend. Fortunately, things went way better than the first time....
The first (second) bowl is quilted maple, finished with 2 coats of Mylands nitrocellulose sanding sealer, three coats of Mylands high-build friction polish and a coat of Renaissance wax. Unfortunately, I turned the tenon too small and couldn't reverse chuck it. That gave my an opportunity to try friction chucking. Needless to say, I need some practice. Couldn't get a real tight fit and ended up using masking tape all around the tenon to get it to fit. Given my first experiences, I brought the tailstock up, just to hold everything. That went great until I realized I had no idea how to part off the piece attached to the tailstock. Eventually, I figured out how to get the tailstock back far enough to give me room to get into the bottom with a parting tool. Unfortunately, the angles were bad, and I took the little divot you see in the second picture.
The second (third) bowl went much better. It's ash, finished the same way as the other bowl. This time, I made the tenon about 2 inches per Mr. Rowley, but made it a little deeper than the 3/16" he recommends. When I reverse chucked it, everything was OK, except I couldn't get the bowl to turn true. After 8 or 10 attempts, I gave up on achieving concentricity, and just hollowed it out. For what it's wqorth, the ash was much easier to work than the maple. Of course, that could also mean I was learing something.
The finish works very well and gives an easy, glossy finish. I got to use my friction sanding system, which worked great and saved a lot of time.
I guess I'm hooked, because the only thing I used my table saw for was to store all of the lathe accessories.
Thanks for looking!!
Jack
The first (second) bowl is quilted maple, finished with 2 coats of Mylands nitrocellulose sanding sealer, three coats of Mylands high-build friction polish and a coat of Renaissance wax. Unfortunately, I turned the tenon too small and couldn't reverse chuck it. That gave my an opportunity to try friction chucking. Needless to say, I need some practice. Couldn't get a real tight fit and ended up using masking tape all around the tenon to get it to fit. Given my first experiences, I brought the tailstock up, just to hold everything. That went great until I realized I had no idea how to part off the piece attached to the tailstock. Eventually, I figured out how to get the tailstock back far enough to give me room to get into the bottom with a parting tool. Unfortunately, the angles were bad, and I took the little divot you see in the second picture.
The second (third) bowl went much better. It's ash, finished the same way as the other bowl. This time, I made the tenon about 2 inches per Mr. Rowley, but made it a little deeper than the 3/16" he recommends. When I reverse chucked it, everything was OK, except I couldn't get the bowl to turn true. After 8 or 10 attempts, I gave up on achieving concentricity, and just hollowed it out. For what it's wqorth, the ash was much easier to work than the maple. Of course, that could also mean I was learing something.
The finish works very well and gives an easy, glossy finish. I got to use my friction sanding system, which worked great and saved a lot of time.
I guess I'm hooked, because the only thing I used my table saw for was to store all of the lathe accessories.
Thanks for looking!!
Jack