Table Saw blade wrenches

[Matt Day]

I'll post some pictures tonight to prove it, but I just purchased a used Bridgewater BW-10TS Table Saw over the weekend and it's missing the blade wrenches. They're the same size as the ones on my Delta, so I'm thinking they're pretty universal. Anyone know a place to get a pair of wrenches cheap?

Anyone by any chance have some spares they could send me? I'd pay shipping of course.

Thanks!

[Bob Rufener]

My Unisaw takes a standard 7/8" wrench. Get one at your local store if you don't already have one.

[Chip Lindley]

I have an old box-end wrench I use for my tablesaw. The long arm keeps my fingers away from the saw teeth while changing blades. And the box-end is at a slight angle, keeping the wrench from scraping on the carbide accidentally!

[Phil Phelps]

If you get on of those stamped wrenches, grind the edges round. I'd rather be cut with a knife than scraped to the bone.

[Chris Padilla]

Ask dear old dad if he has a spare 7/8" box-end laying around. Search flea markets or used tool shops for a cheapie 7/8".

I happen to have a nice offset box end 7/8" (3/4" on the other end) that really fits beautifully.

I also use a hardwood jam stick to hold the blade while futzing with the arbor nut so I don't need two wrenches to change blades.

[Richard Daggett]

I purchased mine from a bike shop. Bicycle tools are sturdy and thin enough to get into a table saw.

Richard

[Anthony Whitesell]

I got lucky and found that a used tool store near me had wrenches large enough and cheap enough for my Craftman TS.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi, as others have posted, go to a cheap tool supplier for these wrenches, and perhaps a bicycle shop in case you need a stamped steel one for the arbour.

My General 650 takes a stamped steel wrench for the arbour, and a 1" wrench for the nut.

Regards, Rod.

[David DeCristoforo]

Get yerself a beer can (make sure you drink the beer first) and cut off the ends. Then split the can up the side and roll it out into a flat piece. Cut some wrenches out of the piece. They will be of substantially better quality than the wrenches that are supplied with even the best saws.

[Brad Wood]

Get yerself a beer can (make sure you drink the beer first) and cut off the ends. Then split the can up the side and roll it out into a flat piece. Cut some wrenches out of the piece. They will be of substantially better quality than the wrenches that are supplied with even the best saws.

how is that possible? Beer cans where I come are barely thicker than visqueen plastic

[Phil Erup]

Get yerself a beer can (make sure you drink the beer first) and cut off the ends. Then split the can up the side and roll it out into a flat piece. Cut some wrenches out of the piece. They will be of substantially better quality than the wrenches that are supplied with even the best saws.
I'm going to get six of them cans. Hope I can remember what I did with them after I empty them. :D:D:D

Phil

[Ted Shrader]

Matt -

Make a trip to Harbor Freight. A combe wrench will keep your hands and the wrench away from the blade tips. Cost would be about as much as the shipping.

And . . . Congratulations on the new saw. But we can't see anything in the picture you posted! :) ;) :)

Regards,
Ted

Regards,
Ted

[Kevin Groenke]

Get yerself a beer can (make sure you drink the beer first) and cut off the ends. Then split the can up the side and roll it out into a flat piece. Cut some wrenches out of the piece. They will be of substantially better quality than the wrenches that are supplied with even the best saws.

I beg to differ David, the wrenches that were supplied with our SawStop cabinet saws are quite nice: surprise, surprise.

-kg

[Chris Padilla]

how is that possible? Beer cans where I come are barely thicker than visqueen plastic

Brad, Brad, Brad...you need to get a case of beer (sorry, Phil, 6 ain't gonna do it) and do what David suggested but you need to laminate the flattened cans together in a vacuum press and then cut out the wrench with a bandsaw.

[Brad Wood]

Brad, Brad, Brad...you need to get a case of beer (sorry, Phil, 6 ain't gonna do it) and do what David suggested but you need to laminate the flattened cans together in a vacuum press and then cut out the wrench with a bandsaw.


LOL - well, David DID leave that part out!!

[Matt Day]

I was hoping to find the thin cone wrench that goes in between the blade and the arbor - what size is that? 7/8" like the nut? I'll probably stop by a Harbor Freight, thanks.

Now for the proof - she ain't pretty just yet (well for some of us the guts of the saw are the pretty part!) but I just started cleaning it up.

[Chris Kennedy]

Brad, Brad, Brad...you need to get a case of beer (sorry, Phil, 6 ain't gonna do it) and do what David suggested but you need to laminate the flattened cans together in a vacuum press and then cut out the wrench with a bandsaw.

In spirit of the woodworking community, let me do this for you. You buy the beer and I will take care of the rest.

Now, in all seriousness, you shouldn't drink and bandsaw. After all, alcohol can impair your judgment. I know I have to have at least three or four beers before I think it is a good idea to operate heavy machinery while drinking.:D

Cheers,

Chris

[Don Eddard]

Get yerself a beer can (make sure you drink the beer first) and cut off the ends. Then split the can up the side and roll it out into a flat piece. Cut some wrenches out of the piece. They will be of substantially better quality than the wrenches that are supplied with even the best saws.
Um, the two thin wrenches that came with my TS3650 are plenty substantial for the job. No complaints whatsoever. I also don't crank down the arbor nut so tightly that I bend a wrench trying to take it off. :rolleyes:

[David DeCristoforo]

OK, OK... That was a joke. I mean the thing about the beer cans. The wrenches that came with my Felder ain't all that bad either. But all of those crummy stamped steel "wrenches" that came with most of my machines (Unisaw, DW RAS, Omga chopsaw, etc) were long ago tossed in the trash and replaced with "real" wrenches, some of which had to be ground thinner to fit the flats on various arbors, spindles, etc. I got most of them off of the Mac tools truck that cruises through our complex a few times a year.

[Sonny Edmonds]

I'm glad you came clean, David. ;)
I've never been unhappy with my stock wrenches with my TS, a Unisaw.
They have done many hundreds, if not thousands, of blade changes.
The price I gladly pay for using dedicated type blades. (Old school) :)

Just a reminder....
Always unplug your saw when changing blades.
The fingers you save may be your own. ;)

[James Carmichael]

Pawn shops are a great place to pick up mechanic's hand tools. I think I paid $1 for the 15/16s combo wrench I use. The length to keep fingers away from the teeth and well above the table, and lots of leverage. Plus I'm well armed in case I get attacked while changing blades:eek:

[Joe Chritz]

Through a dial indicator on the flat on the arbor, find an open end that fits (or grind one that is close) and grind it flat to fit.

I did this with a few for my shaper that were big metric sizes and I found some dirt cheap almost big enough English sizes.

You could also buy some steel bars, build a forge, hammer to rough shape then finish on a belt grinder. Use a mill to machine out the correct opening and finish the flat, send it to a heat treater and you are good to go. :D

Joe