Any new ideas for ripping thin strips on TS?

[Jon Grider]

For ripping the thin strips for stack laminated rockers for rocking chairs, I am using a zero clearance plate, and setting the blade to fence at 125[1/8"] to rip the strips I use to glue up the rockers. My push sticks are replaced every 15 -20 or so cuts as the thin part left on the fence side of the saw kerf gets too flimsy to push the narrow strip through the cut. I need to maintain pretty tight tolerance on the strips, so moving the fence with every cut to cut on the outside of the board wouldn't work so well. This is a white knuckle procedure, with kickbacks not as uncommon as I'd like. Just wondering if in the collective wisdom here anyone has any new ideas on ripping thin strips?

[Brent Leonard]

Rip a piece of 3/4" ply about 4 to 6" wide and cut to approximate length of the strips your ripping.

Rip the left side of the board 1/8" "in" from the existing edge, but leave a nub on the end of the board to hook your piece you will be ripping.

Now you have a 4"-6" board with a nub to catch and push the thin strip past the blade. You leave the rip fence set, and RIP AWAY!!!

I hope that makes sense. Imagine a backwards "L"with the lower leg of the "L" being just a small nub to hook your piece..

http://www.inthewoodshop.org/methods/thin/3.jpg

[Jon Grider]

Hi Brent, if I'm visualizing what you're describing correctly, that is what I am doing, the rub is that the nub on the end after a few cuts gets too fragile and fails while in the act of cutting. The strip then gets pinched, resulting in the kickback. I've been using plywood for the pushers, maybe solid wood would last longer.

[Michael Parr]

If you look over at the EZ forum you will see the system is designed to use a circular saw to do these cuts. If you don't want to use that then look up the Gripper or the incra system where you could make a system that would fit the mitre slot and slide it threw each cut.

[Alan Schwabacher]

Jon:

Brent's jig is not a push stick used vertically. It lies flat on the table with the workpiece beside it on the side away from the fence. The pushing bump does not get chewed up in use because it supports the entire back edge of the strip you cut, but does not extent beyond that into the blade. (Not after the first pass anyway.)

That is likely a good option for you. Another method that works well is most practical for very long strips. I've used it to cut strips 20' long and about 1/4" thick for building woodstrip canoes. This is to leave the stock stationary, and to cut with a handheld circular saw. With a special base that acts as a ZCI, has a splitter, and a fence, you can get very consistent, clean cuts. I have some pictures, description, and a diagram of the jig here:
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~durgerian/id5.html (http://www.home.earthlink.net/%7Edurgerian/id5.html)
(I hope it's acceptable to post this link. I tried to find a list of rules and failed. Where are they?)

By the way, with the jig as shown the blade guard is obstructed. It's easy enough to cut a hole in the base for the guard while retaining the ZCI aspect at the front of the blade. However, if you do this, the splitter must be mounted further from the blade. For very thin long strips like this, the splitter is needed to keep the strip from wobbling into the blade and being hacked up, among other things.

[Brent Leonard]

Are you speaking of a push stick or a jig that lays flat on the table saw?

The jig I'm speeaking of would only have a notch of 1/8", but could have 2" of material behind it so it doesn't break away.

Here is a link to what I'm talking about, but I just cut the nub on a band saw instead of the hardboard.

http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/basics/reader-devises-a-different-way-to-slice-a-thin-strip-ripping-jig/

[Brent Leonard]

Jon:

Brent's jig is not a push stick used vertically. It lies flat on the table with the workpiece beside it on the side away from the fence. The pushing bump does not get chewed up in use because it supports the entire back edge of the strip you cut, but does not extent beyond that into the blade. (Not after the first pass anyway.)

yep.........

[Larry Rasmussen]

Funny but I am looking at having to cut some 3/16 strips and just figured out my approach. The Grr ripper is a fancy push block that starts at $49, you can go to Peach Tree Woodworking, www.ptreeusa.com (http://www.ptreeusa.com) or Amazon to take a look. They go on sale for 2 for $69 once in a while. Its basically a push block that has an adjustable gap where the blade is and sticky rubber face so you can push the wood on both sides of the blade putting downword pressure on it all the way through the blade area. The narrow part of the cut is next to the fence so if you want an identical piece just push the board on through again without adjustment.

PROBLEM! The width of the thinnest area of the block that goes on fence side as you are pushing is 1/4 inch. If you do a ton of these you could just run the Gripper through at 1/8" width setting and make that 1/4' wide face smaller- it's plastic. I am going to keep mine intact so I'm going to double back tape a 1/8" or so wide piece of the wood I'm ripping sticks from along the bottom of the fence so I have a full 1/4 surface to clear the gripper. Hopefully that makes sense. I like the gripper and use it especially whenever I need repeated width cuts like cabinet facing, trim, whatever. Sorry I can't report on effectiveness but it's cold today so I'm working on the inside part of the project, my garage is unheated.

Good luck,
Larry Rasmussen
Seattle

[Michael Parr]

http://www.incra.com/product_buildit_main.htm

You could use this kind of system to make a sliding cross cut fence (or make your own). This would allow you to hold a piece of wood very close to the blade.

As for the EZ zone check the video on this link (http://www.eurekazone.com/products/detail/smartclamp.html). I am planning on using this to make some veneer strips for some garage shelving I am making out of plywood.

[Joe Scharle]

I've used this for many years. Push shoe hooks the work and carries it thru. With the replacable hook of 1/8" hardboard I can cut 1/8" strips over & over. Don't have to move the fence and the saaw gard stays in place. I mount a thicker shoe hook for larger strips.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1419/Spline_Jig_9_.JPG

[William Hutchinson]

This video on cutting thin strips may give you another option....
http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/category_player.php?type=1&cat=1
(left menu, second one down)

[Brian Norton]

I guess this is where a band saw does excel with ease. Good luck Jon. Did I type table? Time for a nap...bye

[Jon Grider]

Thanks for all the replies and links. Brent and Alan, now that the light has finally turned on in my head, and I've seen the photos of the jig, that's exactly what I need! That solution is the kind I like the most, simple,safe,and home made. You have made me a happy ripper.

[Bill Huber]

I have one of the Rockler jigs and it works very well, it is easy to set up and make uniform cuts.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18056&filter=thin


109377

[Nissim Avrahami]

It depends on the length of the strips that you need...

For long strips (67"), I'm using a straight board with a "pusher" screwed at the end as was shown on the posts above.

For shorter (up to 45") but thinner (5/64"~1/8"), I use the "Vacuum sled" (the vacuum holds the thin strip from flattering after passing the front teeth)
http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb151/matsukawa/Strips%20Vacuum/027.jpg


http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb151/matsukawa/Strips%20Vacuum/024.jpg


http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb151/matsukawa/Strips%20Vacuum/025.jpg

Please note that in both cases, I use feather board (or feeder rollers) and a splitter/riving knife is a must...

Regards
niki

[Jon Grider]

Nice set up Nissam, did you create that system or do you have plans? Anyway, I have just completed cutting about 50- .125X1.562X 43" long strips with my new system of a 6" X 45" piece of B. birch plywood with a piece of hardboard screwed into the rear end, with a featherboard in front of the blade. It worked so much better than my original method. The only scary part is the last few inches of the cut when the featherboard no longer applies presure to the piece. Now that the rocker strips are done, I need to make a shorter board to rip the .090 thick strips for the back braces. I'm thinking of attaching an overhanging piece of plywood to the "sled" near the back end to hold the strip down and in place for the last several inches of the cut. Again, thanks to all for the ideas,pics, links, and help. You guys have made this task so much easier and safer.

[George Lohnes]

Bill

Regarding the Rockler jig... I have looked at that a little but havent figured out how it differs from just having one of those magnetic feather boards (drawing a complete blank on the name) in ths same spot as the jig.

I know I am missing something but can't figure out what it is. what does it do different?

thanks
George