Al Navas
02-05-2009, 10:40 PM
From my blog:
Where I was a while ago: Application of the Zinsser SealCoat™ (an alcohol-based, wax-free sanding sealer) went well. The secret: Apply very thin coats with a lint-free rag, wiping as you go. Wait a minimum of 2 hours, then sand with 400 grit sandpaper, until smooth to the touch - but don’t sand all the way to the wood. Repeat once.
Today:
1) Time to apply the first coat of Target Coatings’ EM2000wvx alkyd varnish:
2) I fine-tuned the mortise and tenon fit on a test leg made of scrap, glued-up quarter-sawn white oak (QSWO):
Now, some details.
Setting up the FMT to make the tenons - I don’t want to do this while perched 6 feet above the ground, so I do this with the FMT on the workbench:
http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/table-leg-tenon-fmt-300x199.png
As a first step, I record all dimensions for the test tenons; this simply makes it easier to tweak the fit:
http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/table-leg-tenon-measure-300x157.png
Just for kicks, I make sure I won’t cut through into another mortise. For this I make a new test mortise, at 90° from the first one, on the face where the other tenon will be - I cut this one, to share with YOU:
http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/table-leg-tenon-setup-300x125.png
Now, to cut a test mortise:
http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/table-leg-cut-mortise-271x300.png
This is my view when I remove the router from the FMT:
http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/table-leg-mortise-300x199.png
I wanted a 1/4-inch reveal from the front edge of the leg - and got it:
http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/table-leg-reveal-300x186.png
Now that the mortise and tenon joinery fit has been tweaked, I turn my attention to spraying the table top.
Getting ready to spray took about 10 minutes. The steps:
1. Filter water into one TeflonŽ-coated aluminum spray cup, using a Fine paint filter - I will use this water to clean the internals of the HVLP system; I will do it after spraying each of the 2 or 3 coats:
2. Stir the top coat. Satin sheen coatings have a “flattening agent” that settles to the bottom of the can; it must be stirred prior to application:
3. After stirring, filter the topcoat using a Medium filter, directly into a TeflonŽ-coated aluminum spray cup:
http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/topcoat-filter1-172x300.png
4. Proper application of a finish using HVLP equipment requires careful adjustment of the air flow, and of the material being sprayed. I shoot into Kraft paper I tape to the back panel of the booth:
http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/first-topcoat-adjust-spray.png
5. Once I am happy with my adjustments, I start spraying. I am especially careful to fully coat spray all edges, and about 3 inches into the top surface. This ensures proper coverage:
http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/first-topcoat-spray-start-300x199.png
6. As soon as I finish spraying I inspect the surface, to ensure sufficient coverage. The applied spray must be “wet”, and applied at a wet film thickness of 2-3 mils (thousands of an inch); if not, the finish will have a somewhat rough feel. On inspection, this first application of the varnish went well (the final appearance will not be shiny, but rather a nice, satin finish):
http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/first-topcoat-spray.png
Actual spraying took about 5 minutes, followed by about 5 minutes to clean up the spray gun.
Enough for today. After cleaning the spray equipment, I headed to the house, and a wonderful dinner - spinach salad and a few crackers!
Next: Continue spraying the table top, mill the QSWO boards for the aprons, finish milling the walnut blanks for the legs, glue up the legs. Use the Leigh FMT to cut mortises on the legs, and the tenons on the aprons.
Thanks for following along!
.
Where I was a while ago: Application of the Zinsser SealCoat™ (an alcohol-based, wax-free sanding sealer) went well. The secret: Apply very thin coats with a lint-free rag, wiping as you go. Wait a minimum of 2 hours, then sand with 400 grit sandpaper, until smooth to the touch - but don’t sand all the way to the wood. Repeat once.
Today:
1) Time to apply the first coat of Target Coatings’ EM2000wvx alkyd varnish:
2) I fine-tuned the mortise and tenon fit on a test leg made of scrap, glued-up quarter-sawn white oak (QSWO):
Now, some details.
Setting up the FMT to make the tenons - I don’t want to do this while perched 6 feet above the ground, so I do this with the FMT on the workbench:
http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/table-leg-tenon-fmt-300x199.png
As a first step, I record all dimensions for the test tenons; this simply makes it easier to tweak the fit:
http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/table-leg-tenon-measure-300x157.png
Just for kicks, I make sure I won’t cut through into another mortise. For this I make a new test mortise, at 90° from the first one, on the face where the other tenon will be - I cut this one, to share with YOU:
http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/table-leg-tenon-setup-300x125.png
Now, to cut a test mortise:
http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/table-leg-cut-mortise-271x300.png
This is my view when I remove the router from the FMT:
http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/table-leg-mortise-300x199.png
I wanted a 1/4-inch reveal from the front edge of the leg - and got it:
http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/table-leg-reveal-300x186.png
Now that the mortise and tenon joinery fit has been tweaked, I turn my attention to spraying the table top.
Getting ready to spray took about 10 minutes. The steps:
1. Filter water into one TeflonŽ-coated aluminum spray cup, using a Fine paint filter - I will use this water to clean the internals of the HVLP system; I will do it after spraying each of the 2 or 3 coats:
2. Stir the top coat. Satin sheen coatings have a “flattening agent” that settles to the bottom of the can; it must be stirred prior to application:
3. After stirring, filter the topcoat using a Medium filter, directly into a TeflonŽ-coated aluminum spray cup:
http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/topcoat-filter1-172x300.png
4. Proper application of a finish using HVLP equipment requires careful adjustment of the air flow, and of the material being sprayed. I shoot into Kraft paper I tape to the back panel of the booth:
http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/first-topcoat-adjust-spray.png
5. Once I am happy with my adjustments, I start spraying. I am especially careful to fully coat spray all edges, and about 3 inches into the top surface. This ensures proper coverage:
http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/first-topcoat-spray-start-300x199.png
6. As soon as I finish spraying I inspect the surface, to ensure sufficient coverage. The applied spray must be “wet”, and applied at a wet film thickness of 2-3 mils (thousands of an inch); if not, the finish will have a somewhat rough feel. On inspection, this first application of the varnish went well (the final appearance will not be shiny, but rather a nice, satin finish):
http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/first-topcoat-spray.png
Actual spraying took about 5 minutes, followed by about 5 minutes to clean up the spray gun.
Enough for today. After cleaning the spray equipment, I headed to the house, and a wonderful dinner - spinach salad and a few crackers!
Next: Continue spraying the table top, mill the QSWO boards for the aprons, finish milling the walnut blanks for the legs, glue up the legs. Use the Leigh FMT to cut mortises on the legs, and the tenons on the aprons.
Thanks for following along!
.