super dado problem-craftsman saw

[larry merlau]

i have a mid 70's model of a 10 inch craftsman contractor style TS and went to use the new frued dado blade and found out that flat bottom cuts didnt happen with my saw. seems that the arbor only has a 1/8 in. shoulder for the blades and therefore is letting the rest, postion lower :( the old one that i used previouly(craftsman wobble) had a bushing that prevented that from happening. thought i done my homework, and asked enough questions but as usual, missed one. so if anyone has a good fix i would apprecaite the info,, thought of replacing arbor? but am not sure that is possible. one good thing dad still has the old one, just need to humble myself and go ask permission to use it. its the old adage that old things are better than the new sometimes :) so thanks for the help and i wil be on my way to dads. at least i will get some milk and cookies as well from mom :)

[Jim Becker]

This is a well known issue with the Craftsman saw...there is a "dip" in the arbor that causes one or more chippers to settle out of plane. You can try filling that dip with Bondo after thoroughly cleaning it, but there is no other fix other than either having an new arbor milled by a machinist or replacing the saw.

[larry merlau]

well mr becker i did ask on here and didnt get anything other than the shaft wasnt long enough for the dial awidth version. even had mr millians measure his arbor for me ? oh well :)any ideas on the degree of difficulty replacing the arbo with a new one

[Jim Becker]

I'm sorry, Larry, but I don't know what is involved with replacing the arbor. But I wanted to respond since this same problem has been reported in the forums for many years now with stacked dado sets on a number of the Craftsman contractor's style saws. For some reason, they milled the arbor "thinner" right were the threading starts or thereabouts...

[Bart Leetch]

Hi Larry

I have a 1997 Craftsman Contractors table-saw with the same problem. I had a new arbor made for it & use a Veritas® Saw Blade Truing Disc
found here http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=30077&category=1,41080,41162&abspage=1&ccurrency=2&SID=

Would I do it again NO ABSOLUTELY NOT :( . Why because they
have to press the flange off & press it on the new arbor & it is very hard to make the arbor & flange really true to each other. Thats the reason for the Veritas® Saw Blade Truing Disc. I use it & a Freud TK906 combination blade. I leave the blade on the saw unless I am cutting Melamine or laminate or dadoing & plan to purchase another for when this blade is in the sharpening shop they work great for ripping hard wood. With the truing disc & combination blade I can dial the saw in good enough that I don't have to joint after cutting at least in the red or white oak that I've been ripping.
I hope to purchase a Grizzly G1023 or G1023SLX some day.
So save yourself the heart ache.

[Brian Bischoff]

Larry,

I had the same problem with my Craftsman TS a few years ago. I have sinced purchased a Jet cabinet saw. The arbor on the Jet has square threads which fully support the blade and chip cutters uniformly. I had other issues with my Craftsman, including dust collection, poor fence design, and the trunion always getting out of alignment. Instead of spending money fixing each one of these problems and still having a contractors saw, I decided to buy my last table saw. The best feature of the cabinet saw is that it acually takes up less space than the contractors saw because of the way the motor is mounted.

Sorry I can't be of more help,

Brian

[larry merlau]

i had kinda figured i was headed down a crooked road, so thanks for the warnibngs and i will turn around and head towards the cabinet saw city now had been contemplating it and when i ran into this the bells started going off. and when tyler gloated over his new baby crap yellow machine :) thanks again for the advice from all who replied