PDA

View Full Version : Longworth Chuck Problem need help!



Thomas Bennett
02-04-2009, 8:27 PM
I'm in the middle of producing some Longworth chucks. One is quite large, about 28" . the rest are 16 inches, one is 12 inches. I glued an inch thick block of maple, six inches in diameter, onto a 3/4 inch thick piece of Russian ply covered with plastic laminate . The outside pieces are 3/8(some 1/4)Russian birch covered with laminate. The idea is to have both laminate surfaces rub against each other upon completion. These constructions seem very flat.
Next I screwed a face plate as close to the center of the maple black as possible. The face plates are home made, but trued up( on a metal lathe) on the “nut side” and recessed to fit nice and snug against the headstock. The outside of the face plates are untouched but seem flat enough, although not perfect. Then I mounted the whole construction on the lathe. I noticed a pretty big “wobble” on the 28 incher. Some of the 16 inch and the 12 inch are also out of true. I continued and turned the outside of the ply construction to a perfect round. Obviously, I can’t turn the face true, as it’s covered with the laminate.
I was hoping this wobble might “go way” or “fix itself a little” after I route the arcs for the mounting hardware. I was also hoping my truck might fix itself after the engine light came on. Would a wobble matter if one is only turning a mounted bowl closer to the center of the chuck, to clean up the bottom of a bowl or platter?
I know of one way to remedy the situation. I could cut off the maple blocks, then mount a new maple block on the faceplate and true it up on the lathe, then glue the ply/laminate construction on the block. I have the ply/laminate constructions screwed together . I drilled a ¼ inch hole through the middle of each construction while it was on the lathe, with a drill in a chuck mounted in the tailstock. I can use this ¼ hole to reference the future glue-up to get it really close to round. I realize I probably should have worked from the face plate out. If the faceplate is out just a hair, the wobble become extreme out at 16 or more inches. If I go to all this trouble, cutting off the maple block, re-glueing it etc. will the chucks be any truer than they are right now? Is there a limit to the size most turners make them? Do they have to be absolutely flat and true? Do any of you that have made these chucks have any insight into this situation?

Allen Neighbors
02-04-2009, 9:36 PM
I have made two of them. I think your entire problem is you started working from the outside in instead of inside out. Should have started with the faceplate.
If you have a 1/4" hole in the center, you can take off the faceplates, make some new faceplates for chuck mounting, and mount the new one using the 1/4" hole to center it, and using a pointed drive center. You may be able to get it done that way. Other than that, I don't know. It might be better to just mark it down as experience, and start over.
Both of mine clamp in a chuck. One of mine is 23-1/2" dia, and one is 15-3/4" diameter, for use outboard and inboard of my OW1640. There is no wobble. I mounted the pre-trued faceplate, with pre-cut tenon, on the double disk of ply. Then marked the circles on the 1/2" Baltic Birch plywood, on the lathe, then removed the faceplate, and cut the arcs with a jig saw, then reversed the outer disc, and remounted the faceplate. My disks rotate on a 3/8" bolt which goes through the faceplate.

Ken Fitzgerald
02-04-2009, 9:41 PM
Thomas...when I made both of mine, I roughed them out with a bandsaw and then mounted them to the face plate. Then I trued them up on the lathe.

Bill Bolen
02-04-2009, 9:56 PM
Good advice above! I have made and sold over 100 Longworths and one thing I know to be true. There is no such thing as a truly flat piece of plywood. After squaring up and facing off the wood mounting block on my homemade faceplates I nearly always had to face off the back disc of the chuck. Sometimes nearly 1/8" of plywood would end up coming off of the worst of these pieces. Sacrafice the laminate on this one and just face it off till the wobble is gone. Mineral oil and a good coat of wax will give you a near frictionless movement between the disc's...Bill...

Steve Mawson
02-04-2009, 10:59 PM
I don't think I understand what is gong on here. Could someone post a picture of what you are talking about. Perhaps I could get a better understanding of what is happening.

Richard A. Rivera, M.D.
02-04-2009, 11:22 PM
I have made two of these, the first had a small "wobble" and it DID NOT WORK...I then found this article and it was a great help...great chuck second time around.

www.morewoodturning.net/Longworth%20Chuck.pdf (http://www.morewoodturning.net/Longworth%20Chuck.pdf)

Good luck...Richard ( I am sure there are many plans etc. out on the web)

Thomas Bennett
02-05-2009, 7:34 AM
Thanks everyone for responding to this problem. I think the laminate , glued to plywood is not the greatest idea. It can warp the plywood a little as it is just glued on one side. I agree that a varnished and waxed surface would be just as good.
I checked the plywood construction for "flatness" by laying the construction face down on a tablesaw table, the flattest surface I have in the shop. I found two of the 16 inchers were out only about 1/16, Two were out 1/8. The big one is out about 3/16 over a 28 inch diameter. The worst one was the 12 incher, out about 1/4. I discarded it.
I proceded to route the arcs last night, hoping I might relieve some stress in the plywood. I decided to give them a try as I am so close to completing them. As everyone who has made one knows, once you figure it out, it doesn't take that much time to make a replacement.
I will report on the sucess of the finished product, with photos, in a few days.