Sliding Table Saw vs Panel Saw

[Alan Schell]

If you had the choice, and space wasn't the only issue, which would you rather use 1) a sliding table saw or 2) a panel saw? It looks to me like the sliding table saw can be had for $3000 and the panel saw for $1800. So cost is a consideration, but the versatility of the sliding table saw may be worth it, thoughts?:confused:

[Rob Russell]

It depends what you want to use the saw for. If all you're ever going to use the saw for is cutting up panels, then the panel saw should work fine.

A sliding table saw allows you to do other things. For example, you can clamp a long board to the table and rip a dead straight edge faster and more accurately than you can joint it.

[Jeffrey Makiel]

I'm not sure you would get the smoothness and accuracy from a panel saw that you get from a decent table saw with a sliding table attachment. Also, I don't think you can perform many of the other functions that a table saw can offer when working with sheet goods. Examples are beveled cuts, non-square panel cuts, dados, rabbets, etc.

I see the panel saw more of an augmentatation to a tablesaw. They are good at reducing sheets goods down to a more movable size. I suppose a real high end panel saw would do more, but they are way more than $1,800.

-Jeff :)

[John Thompson]

As stated.. if all you intend to do is cut down panels and have a TS... then the panel saw. If you don't have a TS and intend to rip.. cross-cut.. and do panels.. the sliding TS. Sort of a no brainer really.

Sarge..

[frank shic]

the cheaper vertical standing panel saws are not renowned for their accuracy and usually require further trimming. on the other hand, i make finish cuts with my exaktor sliding table.

[Chip Lindley]

Ditto Frank! Vertical panel saws are not best for square accuracy OR finished edges! They are great for saving space though! For finish work in hardwood ply or melamine, MY Exaktor table with a Modulus scoring attachment is the next best thing to a REAL SLIDER! My PM66 does double duty as *justa TS* and also as an accurate *mini-slider*!

[Jonathan Spool]

I have a Milwaukee 6480-20 panel saw. Probably have $1500 into it with all the attachments I use with it.
I can get 1/64" accuracy in a 48" cut. Close enough for any cabinet box I put together. Using a good blade, and sliding the work away from the blade prior to letting the saw return is important to get a good cut.
I use a Gorilla grip, and a panel dolly to roll the panel from the rack to the saw. Never a strain on my back.
If I want a perfect cut, I'l take the broken down sections to the tablesaw that has a Jessem table on it, and it can handle those perfectly.
So I guess my answer is to have both!
Jonathan

[Thomas S Stockton]

In that price range I would look for a good used slider. The inexpensive panels saws are not as accurate or do they do a nicer cut than a slider. If I cut a lot of sheet goods I would go with a high quality panel saw like a Holz=Her or Striebeg, they aren't cheap but they will produce accurate panels with no chip out all day long.
Tom

[frank shic]

chip, i'm glad to know that i wasn't the only one who forked out the big bucks for the modulus 2000 lol. it works great except that i've yet to figure out how to make a throat plate to prevent small pieces of wood from falling into the contraption and jamming up the drive belt.

[Alan Schell]

Thanks for the replies. I am thinking that the sliding table saw is the route to go. Any opinions on the Grizzly G0623X?

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Sliders are phenomenally accurate and repeatable.

They make compound angle cuts a breeze.

You can rig up fixtures for holding complex work and run them like you might a milling machine.

I don't know how I drew breath before I got mine.

[Mike Wilkins]

Alan, have you checked the Laguna offerings??? The small sliding tablesaw from the green bear company looks OK. But I don't know of anyone who has one or reviewed one. There are many companies that offer sliding tablesaws, but be prepared for sticker shock.

[Jim Kountz]

If I had a choice it would be the slider no doubt. Panel saws arent the most accurate things in the world and not nearly as versatile as a slider. Contact Jim Becker and talk to him about this, he has a nice slider and according to his posts loves it. He could probably answer alot of your questions for you.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Hey Jim, ought to mention that Jim Becker probably (unless he got the deal of the centuary) paid far more than $3000 for his saw.

Sliders are great, and I really can't imagine how a panel saw could come close. Panel saws are made for one thing, which they do well enough. Sliding table saws are a completely different animal, and they are a much better fit if you do anything other than size plywood sheets, which they do better as well. Sure won't be willingly trading mine anytime soon.

[lou sansone]

I love my slider, but as others have said, 3000 is not going to go very far.

lou

[frank shic]

wow, that grizzly sliding table saw looks terrific. i wonder if anyone's had a chance to review it... did you guys notice that it had a SCORING blade included??? drool.... that's probably the cheapest option i see unless you want to just buy a contractor's table saw, an exaktor sliding table and a scoring blade attachment which would definitel come out to a little more than $1000 especially if you buy the saw and sliding table used off of craigslist.

[Paul B. Cresti]

Good sliders are not cheap! neither are good vertical panel saws! and there are some very good ones in both categories. If you have a budget of 3k you will most likely be limited in your choices and more importantly SIZES of sliders. The cheaper end of vertical panel saws will most likely end you up in the realm of Safety Speed Saw. The more you are willing to spend the more options you have. Do yourself a favor and look at all levels and then decide what options, functions and company you FEEL the most comfortable with. I have plenty of opinions....;)....but it is your money spend it wisely!

[Kevin Groenke]

Another consideration:

A conventional "american" cabinet saw with a sliding table can have a dado or moulding head installed, most "euro" sliders can not.

-kg

[Frank Drew]

Sliders are phenomenally accurate and repeatable.

They make compound angle cuts a breeze.

You can rig up fixtures for holding complex work and run them like you might a milling machine.

I don't know how I drew breath before I got mine.

What Cliff said.

[Bill Neely]

I was able to find a Laguna TSS with scoring for $2000.00 - I'd prefer an 8' carriage but I'm pretty happy with what I have and don't actually know where I'd find the space to run a bigger saw.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Another consideration:

A conventional "american" cabinet saw with a sliding table can have a dado or moulding head installed, most "euro" sliders can not.

-kg

Actually Kevin, when I was shopping several months ago, I found that the major brands models that I looked at all took dado cutters of some sort now. My Felder uses a cutter that is more like a shaper cutter than the typical stacked dado, but works the same.

[James Reichman]

I was able to find a Laguna TSS with scoring for $2000.00 - I'd prefer an 8' carriage but I'm pretty happy with what I have and don't actually know where I'd find the space to run a bigger saw.

I have a mini max sc3. Picked it up for under 2k. It will not take a dado head. So instead of building an outfeed table. I watched CL for a used grizzly 1023. Put it in front of the SC3. Back to back saws do it all. Cut PLY and crosscut on the SC3. Rip hardwood and dado on the Grizzly. Works real sweet. I use the grizzly top with an old peice of melamine thrown on the top for an assembly table. If you just sit tight you can do it for way under 3k.

My sc3 can cross cut 52"? Granted it cannot rip a whole sheet with the slider. But it does more then half so I just push the rest. the slider past the blade also helps support the cut off. It is all how YOU work.To me this was the best setup for my space. And the sc3 outrigger takes about 1 minute to take off and put back on. So I do not lose much space to the left of the blade.

Before I had the grizzly I had a ridgid 3650 back to back with the slider. Just as sweet and you can pick up that saw now cheap.

Good luck
jim

[John Carlo]

I almost bought a panel saw. Then I bought the Festool TS 55. No regrets ever. I now leave the dado blade on the table saw most of the time. My daughter called me recently bc she couldn't hang her doors back up after getting new carpet. Two saw horses and the Festool set up in her driveway and the 3 doors were trimmed in 10 minutes and back up. I made the first cut. She did the next two doors on her own. She was amazed at her new abilities.

[Andrew Joiner]

I like vertical panel saws for sheet goods. Repeatable with stops, accurrate to 1/64" and less heavy lifting for one person. I had a Safety Speed Cut for years. I put many hours on it and it stayed dead on accurrate.

How does one person place a heavy sheet on a slider without scratching/sliding the sheet face?

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I like vertical panel saws for sheet goods. Repeatable with stops, accurrate to 1/64" and less heavy lifting for one person. I had a Safety Speed Cut for years. I put many hours on it and it stayed dead on accurrate.

How does one person place a heavy sheet on a slider without scratching/sliding the sheet face?

My Felder has a very well placed roller that you use as a fulcrum, and to move the sheet. The slider is a tiny bit higher then the table as well, so the surface of the sheet only slides against something if the operator goofs. Don't know about the other saws, but as that is what these saws where made for, I'd imagine that most of the other manufacturers have a plan.

[Rob Damon]

Andrew Joiner I like vertical panel saws for sheet goods. Repeatable with stops, accurrate to 1/64" and less heavy lifting for one person. I had a Safety Speed Cut for years. I put many hours on it and it stayed dead on accurrate.

Andrew,

What blade do you use on your vertical panelsaw? I was looking at a Freud P408 8" 34 Hi-ATB or the Freud LU98R 8" as they show excellent cut for all sheet good types.

Thanks,

Rob

[Jim Becker]

Another consideration:

A conventional "american" cabinet saw with a sliding table can have a dado or moulding head installed, most "euro" sliders can not.

-kg

Minimax saws can use a dado set and Felder has an alternative option to handle that function.

There is a marked difference between a cabinet saw with a sliding table and a true slider...and aside from the mechanisms themselves...it's the distance between the edge of the slider and the blade. You lose a lot of versatility if the edge of the slider is nearly a foot away from the blade. That's not an issue for typical panels, but it sacrifices functionality for things like straight-line ripping, etc.

To the OP, $3K may get you a used Euro style slider, but anything new in that price range is going to likely have major compromises in capacities and quality.

[Andrew Joiner]

I use a Matsushita blade.

[tim rowledge]

Actually Kevin, when I was shopping several months ago, I found that the major brands models that I looked at all took dado cutters of some sort now. My Felder uses a cutter that is more like a shaper cutter than the typical stacked dado, but works the same.

My six year old MM CU300 takes a dado head. Not a particularly recent change. The only thing I can think of that a US style TS might be better for is near-exclusive long-piece ripping use. A slider is actually a tiny bit inconvenient for ripping a 20ft strip, for example. You have to take off the mitre fence, which can take as long as two minutes.

[Larry Edgerton]

I don't really see them as an either/or choice. I would like to have a vertical panel saw to compliment my slide saw, that would be my choice.

As far as accuracy, most vertical saws are never set up properly, AKA lumber yard saws but I do know of a couple that get regular use in small shops and they help the flow.

I have a SSC panel router I bought from Leigh, and after setting it up and painting it red:), I was amazed at how accurate it is, and it has the same basic mechanism as the saws. One thing I would do if I bought one is replace the saw with an old Speedmatic, a much better cutting saw. After seeing what the panel router will do I suspect that any discrepancies are in the saw itself.

My MiniMax has a dado adapter, set is bored to 1 1/4".

[Alan Schell]

I was fortunate to find another creeker that was selling his Exaktor, thanks Rob, I really enjoyed meeting you and your wife and seeing your shop!

Where would you go to find a Modulus 2000? Several of the .com's just drop ship and don't have any in stock, and oh by the way, the price is up $50 plus the are selling the adapter separately at about $70 extra.

Would you buy a used blade or fork out the bucks for a new one?

Are there any similar products from a different vendor?