Shaper Tuning

[Richard McComas]

I have a Delta 43-375 3HP shaper that the spindle is not perpendicular to the table.

How do I fix this. Do I shim the table top or do I shim the carriage. Where do I get instruction shimming the carriage?

[lowell holmes]

In his book "The Shaper Book", Lonnie Bird devotes two pages to tuning the shaper. He states that you should adjust either the table or the spindle with shims. He also states that you should consult the manual that came with your machine. Not much help is it.

[Peter Quinn]

I have a Delta 43-375 3HP shaper that the spindle is not perpendicular to the table.

How do I fix this. Do I shim the table top or do I shim the carriage. Where do I get instruction shimming the carriage?

You shim the connection between the spindle carriage and the table top. There is a three point connection down there, in the cabinet under the table. it is no great joy to do but I have accomplished it successfully. Mine was out .015" which presented great problems when using insert knives that could not be shimmed for door joinery. I got the shims from McMaster Carr.

I have found no specific resources from Delta describing the process as it is a factory set relationship that is not normally in need of adjustment. I think my old manual mentions that it can be done but offers no specific instructions. I put together a method using information culled from various sources. First steps involve checking everything else. Check the bearings and cartridge assembly for play, check the spindle for run-out and insure that it is not warped or bent, make sure the table is flat within tolerances. If these check out the real fun begins.

To highlight the variance, chuck a minimum 12" straight edge (I used a 12" Starret combo square blade) between two spindle collars and snug by hand with the nut. Lower this slowly down to the table, spinning it slowly (with the power manually disconnected for obvious reasons) until you find the low point. Measure the gap at the high point (the other end of the straight edge) with a feeler gauge. This will give you some sense of how thick your shim should be. I started with a shim half the gap at the high side. When you shim one of the three points of connection it seems to change the relationship of the other two, so for me it was necessary to shim each sequentially over a series of checks and adjustments. Sort of hunt-peck-measure-check-hunt and peck some more.

It took me several hours of careful adjustment, not so much fun working in that little cabinet. Get a good slip shim kit from master carr and be prepared to spend a bit of time with it. Only loosen the carriage assembly bolts enough to slip the shims in, which makes them easier to snug back up. The visible bolts on the out side of the cabinet connect only the table to the cabinet and do nothing to adjust the spindle perpendicular to the table. Hope this helps.

[J.R. Rutter]

Ditto what Peter said. I had to tune both of the Powermatics that I have owned. It definitely pays off. I was talking with some Freeborn people at a show and mentioned that their insert sets cut a joint that fit a bit tight. They said that they try to design them for the average shaper, which is probably a bit out of adjustment.

[Richard McComas]

Thanks for the advice/instructions. I just got a set for Freeborn cope and stick cutters and the don't cut as tight as joint as I think they should. Using a machinist straight edge as you describe. I'm finding the spindle is out both front to back and left to right.

[Jeff Duncan]

One thing to check is whether the spindle moves as you adjust the height. I had a Delta 3 hp unit that would swing a bit one way or the other as you raised or lowered the spindle. To check put a straight edge between the spindle shoulder and the locking nut. I can't tell you how to fix that problem as I couldn't get any decent info from Delta. I ended up dumping mine and moving up to a 27.
good luck,
JeffD

[Ron Bontz]

"chuck a minimum 12" straight edge (I used a 12" Starret combo square blade) between two spindle collars and snug by hand with the nut."
Reading with interest...I am not sure I follow this part.

[Steve Jenkins]

You put the straightedge in instead of a cutterhead then lower the spindle until the straightedge is just above the table. Rotate the spindle by hand and watch the clearance between it and the tabletop. By watch I mean you may have to use a feeler gauge. Of course the shaper should be unplugged. :o

[Peter Quinn]

You put the straightedge in instead of a cutterhead then lower the spindle until the straightedge is just above the table. Rotate the spindle by hand and watch the clearance between it and the tabletop. By watch I mean you may have to use a feeler gauge. Of course the shaper should be unplugged. :o

Yea, that's what I meant. I put a solid spacer both above and below the straight edge to act sort of like a lock edge cutter head assembly. Lower it real slow near the end if you value your straight edge and iron top!:D This allows you to check the spindle in 360 degrees and use feeler gauges as Steve said to measure the variance. I think I read that technique in literature from Freeborne? Can't find it on their web site though or in my files at this point. It does work though.

[Ron Bontz]

Thanks. Mine seems pretty straight. I checked the run out a while back. But I think I'll try that tomorrow just to see.