A monster question or two.

[Chris Haas]

ok, recieved my articulated arm last night and went to work on it, will post pics tonight. my question is does anyone have trouble with removing the nub at the bottom of the HF, does it just take patience and a lite touch? thanks in advance, now its off to work.

[Gary Max]

Always one of the most fun parts to remove and the inside edge at the base---getting that even with the sides and bottom is also fun.

[George Guadiane]

ok, recieved my articulated arm last night and went to work on it, will post pics tonight. my question is does anyone have trouble with removing the nub at the bottom of the HF, does it just take patience and a lite touch? thanks in advance, now its off to work.
Inside?? It sounds like you might need to raise or lower your centering...
When you are cutting at dead center, you should be able to get the cutter to clear the nub...
If you are just talking about technique, start at the center and focus on bringing it down to level or to the "new low spot," then work your way out and blend in to the existing contour you are happy with.
You could practice THAT aspect on flat scraps that you make an impression on, till you get the feel of the tool.
I hope that helps.
G

[Curt Fuller]

In the new Woodturning Design magazine I just got yesterday there's an article about this and a custom built front rest that can be adjusted by just a hair to get it dead level for removing the 'nub'.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Chris - ideally, hollowing is done with the tool having a slight downward angle. When I first start hollowing, the tool rest is about 4" to 5" away from the turning. As the hollowing progresses, the tool rest is moved closer - about an inch at a time. Without changing the height of the arm itself - just moving the tool rest closer to the turning actually raises the cutting edge. When you have the small nub left at the bottom of the form - chances are it is because the cutter is actually slightly above (or below) the centerline equal to 1/2 the diameter of the nub.

Easiest corrective action, without changing the height of the arm or tool rest, is to move the tool rest back, away from the form a couple of inches. This lowers the cutter and should remove the nub. If you still have trouble - with the lathe off, move the cutter side to side of the nub, rubbing on the bottom of the form. With a flashlight, find the cut line you just made. Move the rest closer or further back - depending on location of the cut line.

Takes doing a few times but you get used to it.

Just to add to George's suggestion - the next time you turn a bowl, use your new hollowing system to turn the inside of the bowl. You can see how all the cutters work and get used to the feel of the arm!

Have fun with it! Looking forward to seeing your hollow forms real soon!

[Bernie Weishapl]

Ditto what Steve said. The key is getting your cutter dead center of the nub. Once there work back and forth till it is gone then blend your bottom to the sides. It took me a few times using a flashlight to get to where I could get the feel of it.

[Randy Privett]

What they said. :)

[Reed Gray]

I have found it easier to remove the nub with a cutter that is at a 45 degree angle rather than flat. I think this is mostly because you present a wider (in the up and down plane) cutting surface than you do if it is flat. Also, a straight cutter rather than one of the hooked ones. The hooked ones can catch the side of the nub and go under and around with a spectacular bang. If you find the old Dave Ellsworth video on hollow forms, he goes into this. You can also practice it with a piece of endgrain material that isn't a hollow form so you can see what you are doing, then go back to the hollow form, and put your practice to work.
robo hippy