durable, heavy duty grip for push blocks?

[Andy Pratt]

Since I upgraded to a 12" jointer, I'm noticing a lot more difficulty pushing boards through as they approach flatness and their friction increases. My current pushblocks are the standard plastic with soft, rubber like black bottoms that you see for sale all the time. A few small parts have started to wear out on the rubber, but they do okay, but only okay. Sometimes they will slip if there is even a little bit of sawdust on a board, or if the surface I'm gripping on is planed smooth they occasionally have problem holding on that surface.

Anyone have any good ideas for a material to replace the rubber with that would work better? I've heard of using sandpaper but it doesn't seem like that would be a very durable solution. I'm looking for something I can do once and have it last a long time, cost and ease of doing it that one time aren't a big concern.

Thanks,
Andy

[Jamie Buxton]

I use those cotton gloves with the rubber fronts. They have high friction, which is what I want. They cost $4 or so at the local big box. They even come in several sizes so I can get a good fit. I use them a lot, so they wear out in six months or so.

[Andy Pratt]

Jamie, are you using push blocks too or just the gloves? I'm looking for something to affix to the bottom of my push blocks for face jointing boards. On edge jointing it hasn't been much of a problem for me due to the lower surface area on the table.

Thanks,
Andy

[Jamie Buxton]

I only use a push device if I'm planing something very short -- so short that I can't grab it with my hands without getting said hands too close to the cutter. I try to avoid planing things that short anyhow.

My favorite style of pushing device is a kind with a handle on top and a hook at the back to hook over the rear of the workpiece. I cut them out of scrap plywood, but they're available commercially in plastic. There's no friction involved. Type E in this page: http://eagleamerica.com/safety-push-blocksand-sticks/p/420-2009/

[Jamie Buxton]

One more thought: wax. I use good ol' Johnsons Paste Wax on my sliding surfaces -- jointer, planer, tablesaw, shaper. It makes stuff slide amazingly better.

[Joe Scharle]

Look in the BORG cement finishing area for a large float with a handle and rubber like bottom pad. Less than $5.00 for my last one.

[Prashun Patel]

+2 for grout float. Try an epoxy grout float.

Also, keep some isopropyl alcohol on hand in a squirt bottle to make rubber surfaces 'squeaky' again.

[Steve Sawyer]

I find that the spongy material that backs most mouse pads is very good. It's softer and thicker than the stuff that comes on those plastic push blocks.

+1 for waxing, but I've become a big fan of Renaissance Wax for any metal surface. I use it on the jointer, planer, table saw, even on the bottoms of my metal hand planes.

[Chip Lindley]

+3 for a grout float! Although I have NO qualms about using my bare hands to push boards thru the jointer, I use a float to push the very end of board thru. No chance of a finger being anywhere close that way!

[Greg Robbins]

I take sticky sandpaper and attach it to the bottom of the push block. It gives a great grip.

[Greg Cole]

I stuck some 60 grit to my rubber soled push blocks with some 3M Super 77.

[Eric Gustafson]

I use that beaded spongy drawer liner that has become unbitquitous and it found everywhere from costco, HD, and HF.

[Rob Young]

I have one (and I'm going to get another) wooden grout float. I have added some sandpaper to the bottom of it and I think I'll glue on a little 1/4" lip too. The float was $5 or $6 at Ace/Westlake Hardware.

[John Thompson]

Make me #6 for tile grout smoothers. I use the ones with about 1/2" rubber on the bottom... add self-adhesive sandpaper to that. And when I do really long and thick stock.. I took one and squared off the back on my BS. Then added a strip of wood to the tail that extends down about 1/4" to catch the rear top of the stock being surfaced to avoid slip and assist in moving against the friction of the table. And the table gets a new coat of wax about weekly.

Sarge..

[Andy Pratt]

Thanks for the ideas everyone, I'll check out HD for the grout floats today, that mouse pad idea sounds like a great one.

thanks,
Andy

[Gordon Peery]

One more thought: wax. I use good ol' Johnsons Paste Wax on my sliding surfaces -- jointer, planer, tablesaw, shaper. It makes stuff slide amazingly better.

Suggestion: Clean all your "sliding surfaces" of wax-gunk buildup and spray a very light "dusting" of "SailKote" (aka Team McLube) ...dries in 5 seconds/no polishing needed. I guarantee: the most slippery stuff on planet earth. Practically instant application, no gunk buildup. Drag, friction? - Zero, Zilch! In fact, on my jointer and shaper the lack of drag or friction is a bit disconcerting; with a less than humongous depth of cut, the lack of drag (something to push against), the loss of "feel", seems dangerous - at first. It seems like you are not cutting.

Suddenly you realize just how little resistance the "cutters" generate in removing wood...... and I'm talking wenge, rosewood, etc.

Spray this on a router base & bit, then start cutting - you won't believe it.

Sorry messrs Johnson! I started woodworking in 1947. I've used enough of your wax to feel like I own a piece of your company. But it is 2009 & dry lubricant technology is a new kid on the block.

[Alan Marchbanks]

I use the sandpaper material used to surface skateboards. It is pertty heavy duty and adheres very well. It has worked very well for me. Available in most sporting goods stores that sell skateboards and is pretty reasonably priced. Comes in sheets 24"x18" or so.

[Andy Pratt]

Based on the advice here I bought two $6 grout floats at HD yesterday, and they seem to be a major step up in friction. Not only are they larger, with nicer handles (not cocked to one side too, which is a plus) and more surface area, the rubber is just way better.

I should mention, for anyone considering them, that there were two distinct kinds of material on the bottom of the various models. Out of the 8 types they had there, 7 had a fairly slick, somewhat cushioned plastic feel to the bottom. The other type, which was one of the least expensive, had a textured, high friction rubber on it. Those are the ones I bought. The rubber is way more dense and appears to be much more durable than on the push blocks I had previously, so I would definitely hold out for this type if you go to the store and only see the slick ones. The exact kind I bought had black handles attached to the thick rubber base with a piece of sheet metal, they were a bottom bin for $5.96 a piece.

Now I won't be worried my push block is about to slip off the wood anymore.

Thanks,
Andy

[Prashun Patel]

The black rubber/foamish ones are regular grout floats. The slick ones are epoxy grout floats. They work well too, but you gotta cleanem w IPA often else they get megadusty.

[Jim Kountz]

For smaller stuff and just general use I make a push shoe. If you have ever hung a large double door they will usually come with plastic handles screwed to the sides for carrying it. I save every one of those things from my jobs. Take a piece of ply or whateve about 8" long and 2-3" wide. Attach the handle to the top and a small cleat of 1/4" ply to the heel and you have a great push shoe with a handle for pushing material through the jointer, router, bandsaw (works great in it side for resawing) or whatever else!!
If you know someone in the building biz, Im sure they can get you all you will ever need!!

[Al Navas]

...Anyone have any good ideas for a material to replace the rubber with that would work better? I've heard of using sandpaper but it doesn't seem like that would be a very durable solution. I'm looking for something I can do once and have it last a long time, cost and ease of doing it that one time aren't a big concern...
Andy,

Congratulations!

You have found stiction, or static friction. What does this mean? Your 12-inch jointer is doing a terrific job getting the face of your boards really flat.

One way to overcome it, as others have already offered, is to use wax. But, in my opinion, no matter how good the "rubbery" stuff on the bottom of your push blocks, it could remain somewhat difficult to push the boards properly; and that could be dangerous.

My suggestion: Always use one push block at the front of the boards, and a push stick on the the back end of the board. This will give you a much better way to overcome stiction.

Once more, congratulations! you have found a way to really flatten boards, and your technique proves it. Just be careful!


.

[Joe Jensen]

Suggestion: Clean all your "sliding surfaces" of wax-gunk buildup and spray a very light "dusting" of "SailKote" (aka Team McLube) ...dries in 5 seconds/no polishing needed. I guarantee: the most slippery stuff on planet earth. Practically instant application, no gunk buildup. Drag, friction? - Zero, Zilch! In fact, on my jointer and shaper the lack of drag or friction is a bit disconcerting; with a less than humongous depth of cut, the lack of drag (something to push against), the loss of "feel", seems dangerous - at first. It seems like you are not cutting.

Suddenly you realize just how little resistance the "cutters" generate in removing wood...... and I'm talking wenge, rosewood, etc.

Spray this on a router base & bit, then start cutting - you won't believe it.

Sorry messrs Johnson! I started woodworking in 1947. I've used enough of your wax to feel like I own a piece of your company. But it is 2009 & dry lubricant technology is a new kid on the block.

Do you know if Sailcoat uses silicone? Silicone is very bad for spray finishes...joe

[Andy Pratt]

Al, thanks for reminding me of the positive aspect of this issue. I suppose that I'm having a problem that isn't a bad problem to have, in retrospect.

I used the t-9 lubricant on the jointer top and it worked pretty well, maybe it's time for a new application though.

Seems like the top design where the cast iron has small flutes in it is a smart idea, as it would probably reduce this friction considerably, as well as any suction issues, and keep tiny wood bits from impacting the plane cut on the board if you happen to rest it on top of them.

I think the jet J/P has this feature, anyone have any thoughts on how it impacts the friction issue?

Andy

[Jim W. White]

skateboard grip tape!

Jim in Idaho

[willie sobat]

Dang it! Now I have to buy a grout float:mad:.

[Jeff Willard]

Look in the BORG cement finishing area for a large float with a handle and rubber like bottom pad. Less than $5.00 for my last one.

That's what I use. As for the sandpaper idea, find an old J weight sanding belt. Won't be many durability issues there.

[Duncan Horner]

I cringe whenever I hear someone saying that gloves are good around large machines, especially machines with sharp blades.

Grout float works for me. Price is right too :)