repeatable length miter cuts on the table saw

[Andy Pratt]

It seems like everyone agrees that using a miter gauge on the table saw, with the rip fence as a length stop is a big no-no. So, if you are going to crosscut a bunch of small pieces from one board on the table saw (say blocks for an end grain cutting board), how do you accurately repeat their length without using it?

Would one option be to attach a small stop block to the rip fence that you can use to position the board each time, but that isn't long enough to extend parallel to the blade? You would be counting on the wood not slipping left or right as you cut it, but I think this might work.

I feel like there's an easy way out there I just haven't been told about yet, hopefully someone's got it.

thanks,
Andy

[Brad Wood]

your second paragraph is what I do

[george wilson]

There are stops you can get that fit on the miter gauges made by Inca.Some old saws had them. My 1963 Dewalt TABLE saw has such. Otherwise,place a wide slab of wood against the fence,and adjust the fence till the slab of wood serves as your stop. Place the slab of wood so it is well ahead of the blade. The slab of wood needs to be wide enough that the pieces you ae cutting off cannot go diagonal,and catch between he fence and the revolving blade. Be careful to not let the cut pieces pile up and get in the way. BE CAREFUL OF THE INCA miter guages. ANY aluminium anodized miter gauge is very slippery,letting the wood slip sideways a bit while cutting. Screw a straight piece of wood over the miter gauge's face.

[Bill White]

Incra 2000 SE. Has the stops for relatively short cuts. Just got thru cuttin' some 29" table legs with mine.
Bill

[Danny Thompson]

If the repeating pieces are going to be on the opposite side of the blade from your miter guage, then I recommend using a crosscut sled instead. The crosscut sled will fully support the cutoff throughout the cut and reduce the chance of it skewing and jamming between the blade and fence.

[Robert Parrish]

I have a miter sled for my table saw but most of the time I use my sliding miter saw with Kreg stops. There are a lot of plans for a sled available.

[Jeff Duncan]

Yup I use the stop block on the fence method and have never had a problem with it. To prevent slipping attach a piece of solid wood to the fence. To kick it up a notch, use some spray adhesive to attach a strip of 180 grit sandpaper to the wood. Gives you a positive grip on your piece without having to try to use a death grip to hold it.
good luck,
JeffD

[glenn bradley]

I thought everyone used a stop block ;-)

[Tom Veatch]

...Would one option be to attach a small stop block to the rip fence that you can use to position the board each time, but that isn't long enough to extend parallel to the blade?

Yep!

I have a 1-2-3 setup block (precision ground metal block that measures 1" high, 2" wide, 3" long) that sits in a drawer in my undertable cabinet. When I need to make repeated short cutoffs, I set the fence to blade distance 1" greater than the cutoff. The block against the fence, the workpiece against the miter gage and butted against the block. Move the gage and workpiece through the blade leaving the setup block behind. Simple, safe, repeatable.


You would be counting on the wood not slipping left or right as you cut it, but I think this might work. ...

A strip of sandpaper glued to the miter fence takes care of that problem.

(Now I'll go read the other replies and see how many present the same or similar solution;))

Edit: Should have mentioned that I use this technique for relatively short cutoffs at the table saw. For long cutoffs, as Bill mentioned for the table legs, a stop block on the miter fence is a better solution if a crosscut sled or miter saw isn't available.

[JohnT Fitzgerald]

If the repeating pieces are going to be on the opposite side of the blade from your miter guage, then I recommend using a crosscut sled instead. The crosscut sled will fully support the cutoff throughout the cut and reduce the chance of it skewing and jamming between the blade and fence.

Ditto. .

[Joe Von Kaenel]

Andy,

I've had the same problem. I make picture frames (as a hobby). I use a Rockler version of the Dubby. I can make repeatable miter cuts all day long.


Joe

[Andy Pratt]

Thanks for the replies everyone. Seems like the stop block on the rip fence thing is the way to go, great to always be able to get quick answers like this on the site.

[Dick Sylvan]

I feel like there's an easy way out there I just haven't been told about yet, hopefully someone's got it.


Yet another reason a sliding table saw is the way to go.

[Joe Scharle]

You've got lots of choices, but if your pieces are going to be small I suggest something like a stop rod on a sled. Small pieces can be lifted by the blade wind on miter saws, then the blade will send it flying. Same can happen with a miter gage. Whatever you do, don't keep pressure against any stop while cutting. It's a stop...Not a fence!

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/194/Stop_Rod_1_.JPG

[John Petsche]

great extension rod idea and pic, thanks.

[Loren Woirhaye]

I like the stop block on the rip fence because it allows the longer part to be handled and the hands not close to the blade until the longer part gets pretty short. Sometimes the spinning blade will push the offcut around a bit but I've never had it turn into a projectile.