Simple (I think) wall cabinet question

[Russ Sears]

I'm planning to build a set of 5 wall cabinets for my office. The basis for my construction is from Udo Schmidt's book. He makes his cases from 3/4" plywood. I'm thinking of using 1/2" mostly to make the wall cabinets lighter and easier to mount.
Am I making a mistake?

This is the "before" picture. The reason for my motivation is plain and yes, that's a corn snake in the aquarium.
[img=http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/3216/basementofficeol0.th.jpg] (http://img87.imageshack.us/my.php?image=basementofficeol0.jpg)

[John Lucas]

Russ,
Yes, I think you are making a mistake. 3/4" is used becasue it has the strength to hold up the typical cabinet loads. And it is thick enough to allow good joints. I would guess that pocket holes will serve you best.

[Bill White]

Not to war with the venerable John L., 1/2" GOOD ply will work just fine as long as you use adequate screw rails at the top and bottom of the cabs.
Think about how the load will work. The sides are under extension load. I don't think that you can pull apart a piece of 1/2" ply under those loads.

DON'T PUT THE CABS UP WITH STANDARD SHEET ROCK SCREWS!!!!:eek:
Bill

[Jamie Buxton]

I pretty regularly make uppers with 1/2" material. I work alone, so lighter is gooder.

I often fasten an L-shaped cleat to the wall where the cabinets will rest. The cabinet back continues down past the bottom of the cabinet to catch in the L. On the top of the cabinet (not inside -- on the top) I fasten a "nail" rail. Screws go through it into the studs. The weight of the cabinets rests on the cleat. The screws through the nail rail prevent the cabinets from falling forward. The cleat is can be shimmed so that it is straight, even if the wall is not. Installation is easy: I put the cabinet on the rail, then reach over the top to screw it on to the wall.

[frank shic]

russ, 1/2" for wall cabinets will be fine. have you seen the returned wall cabinets at home depot??? 3/8" material for those and they seem to hold up pretty well!

[Ed Peters]

and I've made a bunch, are 3/4" throughout. Including the backs. I wouldn't do it any other way. So, I guess it's me and John L.

Ed

[Steve Clardy]

and I've made a bunch, are 3/4" throughout. Including the backs. I wouldn't do it any other way. So, I guess it's me and John L.

Ed

+1 for 3/4

Most times, 1/2 cabinet grade ply is higher priced than 3/4

[Dirk Lewis]

Goldilocks approach....definitely 5/8" ;)

[frank shic]

as an avid fan of melamine and in the best long-term interest of my back, i intend to use only 5/8" for all cabinetry. :cool:

[Kevin Godshall]

russ, 1/2" for wall cabinets will be fine. have you seen the returned wall cabinets at home depot??? 3/8" material for those and they seem to hold up pretty well!

As one who used to work for a supplier of the borg's cabinets........I'm totally converted to 3/4. (Sorry Frank)

[frank shic]

nothing to be sorry about! there are countless variations possible in woodworking which is what makes it so much fun...

[Russ Sears]

Thanks for the opinions. I didn't mention that I already have plenty of 1/2" material. Since these are going to live in my office and carry light loads, I think I'll give the 1/2" a go. If it doesn't work well, I've learned my lesson. No question though that I would (and have) used 3/4" for ground-dwelling cabinets.
One question for the 1/2" camp, I noticed while playing with some scrap that the slot for a #20 biscuit penetrates 1/2" plywood rather nicely. Should I use FF biscuits, dadoes or some other method to join the tops and bottoms to the sides?

[frank shic]

russ, the easiest solution is to just screw them together using either assembly screws (they look similar to drywall screws) or confirmats. don't go crazy with the joinery method since most of it will be hidden. you could also use the smaller sized biscuits but screws are way faster and don't tie up as many clamps.

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Frank, Where do they sell "assembly screws"? I also like using 1/2" stuff for the weight aspect but find 3/4" easier to make good joints with especially with screws. Thanks Alan

[frank shic]

alan, here's one source:

http://www.mcfeelys.com/confirmat-assembly

here's another one which also sells confirmats:

http://wwhardware.com/catalog.cfm/GroupID/Fasteners%20%26%20Screws/CatID/Ultimate%20Screws/SubCatID/Screws%2C%20Deep%20Thread%2C%20Square

if you use confirmats, you'll want the smaller 5 mm ones. the 7mm will also work but you better be able to drill VERY STRAIGHT or you will have some blowout issues. i personally prefer the confirmats since they're much meatier than the assembly screws. if you use the assembly screws, you may need to sand over the heads since they cause the material to mushroom slightly which may interfere with pushing the cases together tightly if you're building frameless style cabinets.

[Jim Becker]

I use 1/2" veneer ply for all my upper cabinets. Butt joints with glue and brads. 1/4" backs stapled on. (French cleats fastened to the sides with #7 screws in pilot holes) Face frames flush with cabinet sides and spacers between the cabinet carcasses. Very strong. And I can lift them myself.

[Jim Kountz]

1/2"ply is probably more than adequate however I kinda use a hybrid, I do the sides in 1/2" and use 3/4" for the back for wall cabs. Just gives them a little extra for mounting and holding heavy loads like dishes and such.