1220 spur drive

[David Dobbs]

I am New here wow what a great site been turning for 30 plus years


I have a new Jet 1220 the spur drive is very hard to get out of the headstock. Has anyone else ran in to this? Would it hurt to put a very very small bit of never seize on it?

Dave

[Steve Schlumpf]

David - just wanted to jump in here and welcome you to the Creek! You've been turning for 30 years? Wow - I am really looking forward to seeing some of your turnings!

Should be someone along real soon that can help you out with your 1220 question!

[Joe Chritz]

If it is a morse taper i have always been told to use nothing on them but light oil wiped off well.

Check for anything burred up on either the taper or the fitting.

If it isn't a taper then ignore me and be welcomed aboard.

Joe

[Ron Lynch]

Tapers are always dry. You may have a small burr on the taper or in the socket. Are you using a knock-out bar or are you trying to pull/twist it out?

[Jon McCoy]

I have a new Jet 1220 the spur drive is very hard to get out of the headstock. Has anyone else ran in to this? Would it hurt to put a very very small bit of never seize on it?
Hard to remove by hand, or when using the knockout rod?

Mine sometimes takes 2 or 3 good whacks to unseat with the rod -- although I'm getting better at whacking it hard enough to unseat it on the first go, flying out of the driveshaft and into my hand.

You shouldn't put anything on the taper; it should fit snugly when dry. If you see any scratches on the drive or inside the driveshaft, that should be resolved before you do any more turning -- if you let it go, you may soon be replacing the driveshaft.

-jon-

[David Dobbs]

The 1220 comes with a nice knock out pin but I have been using a 1/4" steel rod and a 2 Lb Hammer. Which really makes me hurt since it is brand new. It is a MT #2, both my old lathes spurs just tap right out.

I guess I should have said I started turning 30 yrs ago for 4 or 5 yrs then got busy doing other things. I will try to take a few pic of some of the old stuff.

Dave

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Hi David, I do assume it is the MT surface in your new lathe that is not smooth, the far east machining isn't always up to snuff, did you use your old spurs in the new lathe ??
If they come out easy then I would suspect the new spur drive, and you should return it for a new one if still under warranty, as I wouldn't play around with it, the mating surfaces do need to fit very close to work well.
And no you should not need a hammer to remove the spur drive, a good size rod should be all you need to remove any MT drive, also no oil or grease in there, you want it clean and dry.

[Bernie Weishapl]

David welcome to SMC. Lots of good people and lots of knowledge.

I have a 1220 and had problems a few times getting my spur center out. I made a new knock out rod which is twice a long and with a heavy wood handle that fits my hand on the end. It nows comes out first whack.

[Jim Slovik]

I have a new 1220 and the spur drive comes out with just a few taps of the knock out rod.This may be a problem that is specific to your lathe. Good luck.

[Dewey Torres]

I also have that lathe and the knockout rod works fine by itself. What you described doesn't sound good.

[alex carey]

you might not want this advice. In high school when kids used to turn between centers they would crank the tailstock and after enough time they would warp the spur drive. It was bad enough you could see the damage so I would actually take it to the grinder and grind off the unevenness. I doubt you are screwing it up that much. I never have on my machine. But if you are this is just a though. Also Welcome, let's see some pictures :)

Alex

[Don Eddard]

Since it's a new lathe, have you checked to see if there's any of the rust preventative goop on the inside taper of the spindle? You can clean it out with mineral spirits or a similar solvent to make sure.

[Bob Haverstock]

I have a new Jet 1220 the spur drive is very hard to get out of the headstock. Has anyone else ran in to this? Would it hurt to put a very very small bit of never seize on it?

Dave[/quote]

I had a similar problem this week with mine. I suspect that I was the cause of it. I hadn't trimmed the dry bowl blank and it was large. I think that I had some slippage on the spur, so I used a lot of tail stock pressure.

The Jet spur drive as supplied is blunt. I think I need to thin the tops of the 4 drive blades and perhaps use a pilot hole in the blank. Perhaps there is a thread on modifying the spur drive.

Keep the taper clean and dry, the last thing you want to see on a taper is a concentric groove or ridge.

BTW, Dave is the fellow that told me about this forum.

Bob