which bed rail mount is best

[Jeff Cremers]

I am in the planning stages of a bed and am wondering which method is the best for mounting the rails. I not a huge fan of the hole in the outside of the post with the cover cap and was thinking about the inside but same type of way but like the look of the one where you you have the two metal inserts but don't know if that would hold up in the long run.

What way do you guys recommend is the sturdiest way
Thanks
Jeff

[Steve Rozmiarek]

http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/hardware/bedhardware/01s0201g1.jpg












I've used the type "C" on two beds now, they are from Lee Valley, and they work well. I do install them a little different then they where designed though. I inset the "B" part into the rail, like you would a door hinge. I also add another couple small screws into "B". I fully inset part "C" into the post as well, because I think the rail needs to make good contact with the post to prevent racking when the bed occupants are tossing and turning, or uh whatever... The stiffness of the joint created when these pull together is good, and it really makes a strong bed.

I used two sets on each corner once, and while I don't think it was nessecary, if you have the room on your rail, it adds a little peace of mind.

There are a bunch of different ways to do this joint, and others may be just as strong, but I do know that these work well. I choose these over bed bolts for two reasons, first, bed bolts need a wrench to opporate, something some people may not take the time to go find, and will instead just pull on the footboard to move a heavy bed. This sure does make a bunch of leverage on the little brass "nut" in a bed bolt, which has always looked like a good way to split wood to me.

[Danny Thompson]

The pegs that held hooks like the ones above in place in the rail (not the leg, but the rail) of my bed twisted over time, so the joints became loose. (Maybe I installed them incorrectly.)

I replaced them with the following:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10230

http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/53724-01-200.jpg

So far so good. Just make sure you have enough width on your leg. Notice that your rail will not be centered on the leg plate.

[Joe Jensen]

I had the same concern when I built my Heirloom bed. I ended up making my own brackets out of 2 1/2" by 2 1/2" angle iron, 1/4" thick. They are as high as my side boards which are about 12" (sleigh style sides). I put steel thread inserts in the post and the side of the rail, and each angle has 3 bolts into the post and 3 into the rail. I have zero play and zero squeak. I had a local metal shop cut them for me and I drilled and countersink drilled the holes. I then spent about $20 to have them powder coated. A little extreme, but super solid and quiet.

[Chris Friesen]

I am in the planning stages of a bed and am wondering which method is the best for mounting the rails. I not a huge fan of the hole in the outside of the post with the cover cap...

What way do you guys recommend is the sturdiest way

The sturdiest is the hole in the outside of the post. :) I didn't bother with a cover cap for mine, just left them exposed.

There's an invisible (but much more complicated) version of this, where you embed a nut inside the leg and put a bolt in the side rail. This requires routing a clearance groove for the bolt, while the nut can be embedded in the leg by epoxying it into the tenon of the head/foot rails. I think I saw this in a FWW article.

[Thomas Pender]

The best IMHO.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10&filter=bed%20rail%20fasteners

Rockler and I imagine others sells two different sizes. I have used these several times and you could park a car on the beds I made with these things. Not too easy to install - some real mortising skills (unless you build a jig to cut the mortise out with a rounter for the end grain on the rail - using a 1/4" shank 5/8" mortise bit). Also helps to have skew chisels for cutting the corners. You also have to use really good screws, e.g., McFeely's, etc., so they do not snap when you drive them into the end grain. The reward is a spectacular look. You get a perfect 90 and they disassemble really well. The trick is to make sure they are perfectly flush and if your mortise is a bit too deep, you can use a washer or two to move the plate out without any fear.

[Chris Friesen]

The best IMHO.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10&filter=bed%20rail%20fasteners

Rockler and I imagine others sells two different sizes. I have used these several times and you could park a car on the beds I made with these things.

The main problem with those is that you're putting screws into end grain, and even in hardwood they can eventually work loose. If using those particular ones, I would suggest using the technique shown at http://woodgears.ca/shop-tricks/endgrain_screw.html.

[Sherzod Niazov]

In my opinion it depends on the application. When I was building my first bed, the brackets seemed a bit flimsy, so I went with bolts. I believe they were 5/16 x 6" galvanized hex bolts. That method requires routing a nut hole in bed rails and drilling precision holes in the headboard/footboard. The outcome is a rock solid joint that will probably never get lose. The drawback is a hole outside the rail, which has to be plugged.
There is another method mentioned in an earlier post - concealing the nut in the tenon of headboard/footboard frame. This way there is no outside holes. I tried it on my second bed, it’s a little more work, but it’s well worth it. I learned a lot about building beds from the book by Jeff Miller, “Building Beds”. Good luck! :)

[Michael McCoy]

The main problem with those is that you're putting screws into end grain, and even in hardwood they can eventually work loose. If using those particular ones, I would suggest using the technique shown at http://woodgears.ca/shop-tricks/endgrain_screw.html.

I've used that hardware for three beds and am in the process of finishing a set of bunk beds. I drill 3/4 holes on the insides of the rails and insert dowels where the screws enter the male hardware so I'm getting some good cross grain for the screws. That may be what your link points to but I can't access it for some reason.

I just used a rabbet bit to do the recess in the end grain and square the corners with a chisel. I have a full bearing set so I can limit the recess to the needed 1/8th inch.

[Aaron Wingert]

I've built about 6 beds and used these on every one of them. They're basic knockdown design. They're absolutely rock solid...My last headboard was 54" tall and had no wiggle to it at all. The bed assembles and disassembles with a couple raps with a rubber dead blow mallet. The 2nd picture shows the template I made for the router to cut the recesses. A small forstner bit cuts the mortises for the fingers.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Anybody else notice how we all can't just build one bed? Kind of funny:D

[Jeff Cremers]

Thanks for all the input guys. I think I'm going with the inside the reail bracket (the heavy duty ones). IMHO I don't think you can beat that clean look.
J4eff