17 degree bevel, how to's?

[John Sanford]

I'm building a shaker styled bookcase from an issue of Wood magazine. The top has molding with a 17 degree bevel. There are three pieces, the front is approximately 36" long, the two sides are around 14" long.

Lacking a 17 degree chamfer bit (does anybody even make such a bit?), I'm seeking various suggestions on how to go about doing this, safety and simplicity being real high on the list.

Equipment available:

Right tilt contractor's saw.
Router table.
6" Jointer
Lunchbox planer
#7, #4 handplanes.
Veritas Skew Rabbet planes.

No bandsaw.

[Don Eddard]

If I'm understanding what you're asking about, and you're just trying to chamfer the edge of the top, I'd just set the table saw bevel at 17º and cut away. Touch up any blade marks with sandpaper on a block of wood. And the 17º doesn't need to be exact at all. The angle isn't nearly as critical as just having them all be the same.

[lowell holmes]

I agree with Don.

After sawing,I would touch it up with the handplanes. (I caught the drive-by with the Veritas Skewed Planes).
Chris Schwarz advocates wetting endgrain with paint thinner or alcohol prior to planeing end grain. It reduces tear out.

[Larry Edgerton]

I gathered from what you said that it is a molding "under" the top that has the bevel?

If this is the case, cut the bevel first on a wider board that is long enough to make all three pieces, and then rip it off square to size. Sand it out with a hard block, then rap it around the top keeping the pieces in order so that the grain runs all the way around the piece.

[Karl Brogger]

I'd just do it with the tablesaw as others mentioned. You could make a sled to hold the piece at an angle and run it through the planer to get your chamfer, but that will take longer than if you just cut it on the saw.

[Leigh Betsch]

I'd start to build a specialized molding plane and finally get the initial project finished about next Christmas. But that's just me.

[Jim Becker]

15º would also be typical and that would be easier to source if you want to use a router or shaper cutter for the bevel. Remember also that "plans" are just guides...you don't have to exactly duplicate some detail as long as you account for it within the construction needs of the project.

[Pete Hay]

For the smoothest cut, I'd do the 17° on your 6" jointer. Your fence will easily lay back at that angle