Why can't I cut a 2x4?

[Stefan Antwarg]

There must be some sort of secret way to cut a 2x4 with a circular saw. Because every time (and I mean every time) I get to the end of the cut, the saw kicks back on me. I end up tearing the scrap off by just twisting it.

There must be something I'm missing.

Stefan

[Mark Singer]

Stefan,
I have done a lot of rough framing and have gone through many Skil 77 saws over the years. It sounds as if you are binding the blade and getting a bit of kickback. To avoid it try cutting a couple inches off a 2x4 , leaving the 2" piece free to drop off the end of your bench. It will not bind because the blade is not pinched. Now if you need to cut a board in the middle, support it under the saw ...the support can be right under the blade. If it is a big piece do it on the floor so the board won't drop far. When framing I use my left foot and left hand to slightly raise the board then cutting. Or if the board is continously supported ie, resting on the floor and you cut through...no problem. If the bord is supported near the ends the weight of the saw causes it to bind as you make the cut...when the board loses strength it deflects binding the blade. Its physics. Hope that helps.

[Frank Pellow]

Stefan,
I have done a lot of rough framing and have gone through many Skil 77 saws over the years. It sounds as if you are binding the blade and getting a bit of kickback. To avoid it try cutting a couple inches off a 2x4 , leaving the 2" piece free to drop off the end of your bench. It will not bind because the blade is not pinched. Now if you need to cut a board in the middle, support it under the saw ...the support can be right under the blade. If it is a big piece do it on the floor so the board won't drop far. When framing I use my left foot and left hand to slightly raise the board then cutting. Or if the board is continously supported ie, resting on the floor and you cut through...no problem. If the bord is supported near the ends the weight of the saw causes it to bind as you make the cut...when the board loses strength it deflects binding the blade. Its physics. Hope that helps.

That is good advise Mark, I use many of the same "tricks".

[Nathan Hoffman]

Another thing I would add is that using a speed square to guide the saw has helped me keep the cut from binding. As Mark mentioned, though, it has to be properly supported or making a perfectly square cut will still bind.

[Stefan Antwarg]

Well, I finally figured it out. All I had to do was go to the other side of the wood and cut. This way I am not holding the cut-off - I just let it drop. I guess by holding the cutoff side of the cut, I was binding the blade.

So simple...

Stefan

[Dino Makropoulos]

Hi Stefan.
You got some good advice from Mark and Nathan. :cool:
The most important thing when you cut is not the saw or the blade.
Is the material support system.
If UR using a stop on your miter saw for repeat cuts,you must remove the stop before each cut.
If UR using the sliding table to cross cut and UR using the fence for a stop
you must remove(move over) the fence before each cut.
If UR cutting a panel with a straight edge and circular saw or router take the time to make a supporting platform that it will allow you to cut anywhere
and it will keep the cut piece from falling to your toes.
I "m sure you got Mark and Nathan by suprice. :eek: :confused:
See you guys. :D

[Jerry Olexa]

I always say " let the short end you are cutting off "float" ". Let it fall wo interference and u should be alright! When you put tension or interference w the piece being cut off, you'll have problems. Hope that helps!! Jerry:)

[David Rose]

Uh oh! Is that right about removing a mitersaw stop before making a cut? I always have held the piece tight to the stop before cutting. I understand about the other saws, but I don't see the reason for this. Please enlighten me before I hurt myself. I don't mind a little blood (off the project of course), but I hate pain. :eek:

David


Hi Stefan.
You got some good advice from Mark and Nathan. :cool:
The most important thing when you cut is not the saw or the blade.
Is the material support system.
If UR using a stop on your miter saw for repeat cuts,you must remove the stop before each cut.
If UR using the sliding table to cross cut and UR using the fence for a stop
you must remove(move over) the fence before each cut.
If UR cutting a panel with a straight edge and circular saw or router take the time to make a supporting platform that it will allow you to cut anywhere
and it will keep the cut piece from falling to your toes.
I "m sure you got Mark and Nathan by suprice. :eek: :confused:
See you guys. :D

[Dino Makropoulos]

Goodmorning David.
At the machine shop we cut aluminum on a miter saw.
When we set the stop we use a spacer 1/4"
between the stop and the stock to be cut.
That makes it easy to move the spacer every time instead
moving and reseting the stop.
If you have the flip-up? stops is even better.
--As the wood or the aluminum gets cut due to the
force of the blade or the viabration of the motor
or both,it will move to where it can move.
And your stop becomes the problem.

[David Rose]

Hi Dino,

I must be getting more blonde. Well, actually, maybe it's due to most of "it" falling out. :eek:

I can understand why you wouldn't want to trap work between two stops. Is that what you are doing before you clear them? My habit is to firmly butt my work against the fence and left stop holding it with my hand or clamp, start the saw, then press against the stop again in case the torque moved the piece. Then I saw it letting the offcut fall free to the right of the blade. The piece to the left which is held my clamp against the stop has no place to go that I can see.

I've done this this way for about 3 years with no problem. This isn't a lot of experience but... I have had small missles shoot out from the offcut but that is due to not having good fence support to the right, not the stop itself which is to the left.

I don't think :confused: I'm totally unteachable, but I'm still missing something here.

David


Goodmorning David.
At the machine shop we cut aluminum on a miter saw.
When we set the stop we use a spacer 1/4"
between the stop and the stock to be cut.
That makes it easy to move the spacer every time instead
moving and reseting the stop.
If you have the flip-up? stops is even better.
--As the wood or the aluminum gets cut due to the
force of the blade or the viabration of the motor
or both,it will move to where it can move.
And your stop becomes the problem.

[Dino Makropoulos]

Hi David.
What I was trying to say is never trap the cut off.
if you cut, let say 10" off a long board
and you set your stop at 10" , then you must
remove the stop before you cut.
In the above senario the long piece is the cut off
But some times we forget and hold the drop off /cut off(the long piece)
While the small piece is traped against the fence and the blade.
If you need more confusion ,welcome.

[David Rose]

OK, Dino. I've got it now. "Never trap the cutoff". Good advice!

David


Hi David.
What I was trying to say is never trap the cut off.
if you cut, let say 10" off a long board
and you set your stop at 10" , then you must
remove the stop before you cut.
In the above senario the long piece is the cut off
But some times we forget and hold the drop off /cut off(the long piece)
While the small piece is traped against the fence and the blade.
If you need more confusion ,welcome.

[Sam Chambers]

Stefan...

I think I know why you're having such trouble cutting 2 x 4's.

See, they're not really 2 x 4's. They're really only 1 1/2 x 3 1/2's. It's not a big difference, but it's just enough to mess up all your brain chemistry, hand-eye coordination and various other autonomic functions.

Just keep telling yourself, over and over, "It's not a 2 x 4...it's a 1 1/2 x 3 1/2...It's not a 2 x 4...it's a 1 1/2 x 3 1/2..." Then everything will be fine! :D

[David Rose]

Yeah, and it would help if the 1 1/2s x 3 1/2s were not bowed, cupped, twisted, warped and more or less horseshoe shaped. ;)

David


Stefan...

I think I know why you're having such trouble cutting 2 x 4's.

See, they're not really 2 x 4's. They're really only 1 1/2 x 3 1/2's. It's not a big difference, but it's just enough to mess up all your brain chemistry, hand-eye coordination and various other autonomic functions.

Just keep telling yourself, over and over, "It's not a 2 x 4...it's a 1 1/2 x 3 1/2...It's not a 2 x 4...it's a 1 1/2 x 3 1/2..." Then everything will be fine! :D

[Sam Chambers]

Yeah, and it would help if the 1 1/2s x 3 1/2s were not bowed, cupped, twisted, warped and more or less horseshoe shaped. ;)

Well, yeah, there's that too! :rolleyes: