Best product to prevent kickback on a Table Saw?

[Greg L. Brown]

My table saw scares me. I recently bought a Ridgid contractor table saw (TS 3650), but I've been hesitant to use it because I'm scared of kickback (I'm newer to woodworking). I want to be sure I learn how use my TS safely before I start using it more. I really wish I had a riving knife, but saws with that feature were outside of my budget.

Anyway, short of having a riving knife, what can I buy to reduce (or virtually eliminate) kickback? I did some searches here that turned up "Board Buddies" and "Grip-Tite" magnetic featherboards. Is one better than the other? Is there something better?

What about magazine articles about products to make a TS safer? All the "How to use a TS" books I've read seem to, curiously, leave out products one can buy that makes a TS safer. I'm sure Woodworking magazines have tackled this subject. If you know any articles I'd love to know. I'd love to see some reviews.

Thanks,
Greg

[glenn bradley]

Proper adjustment, a splitter and proper technique. If you regularly work with material prone to kickback, a set of pawls could help. Some folks like Board Buddies but stopping kickback is a friction based method for them whereas pawls dig in. Prevention is far better than protection IMHO.

[Brent Leonard]

The MJ Splitter is an excellent product that comes as close to an aftermarket riving knife you can get. I have one and highly recommend it.
The other device, by the same company is the Grr Ripper by the same company. Most people like them and swear by them. I am still undecided on mine. It is a good product and for someone who hasn't made habits in their table saw use, I would HIGHLY reccommend it for a new TS user.

Additionally. Tune your saw to the most precise tolerances you can. A blade that is set parrallel to the miter slot and a fence that is parrallel helps too. Some poeple like their rip fence to slightly (a couple thousands of an inch, no more) kick away from the blade on the far end of the table.

Sharp, good quality blades.

A zero clearance insert is good. A small piece that gets wedged between the blade and the insert is, well, not so good.

Respect your saw, don't "fear" it.



Good luck

[jason lambert]

I aggree with glen above. I have board buddies and they help alot, not so much to prevent kick but to help hold the work piece which prevents the board from getting in the wrong position to start, fethor boards also help the same way. Just don't put a fethorboard behind the blade pressing towards the fcence.

[Zach Dillinger]

I would make sure that the saw is tuned up (miter slot square to the blade, fence square to the blade / slot). Kickback is causing by pinching the stock between the blade and fence or by allowing already-stock to slide into the rear of the blade as it come up out of the table. If the fence and blade are perfectly parallel to each other, this pinching and sliding won't happen. That said, I recently received some Board Buddies in a purchase. I probably wouldn't have bought them specifically, but I find myself using them more and more, but mostly to hold the stock flat to the table and tight against the fence. I haven't yet tested their kickback-stopping feature. I'm hoping that I don't anytime soon.

Take care,

Zach

[Scott Vigder]

A healthy dose of respect for your table saw will go a long way in overcoming your fear. It is important to pay complete attention to what you are doing, remove all distractions, and plan thoroughly before you start.

Several Creekers use a product called a Grr-ipper to hold the piece firmly as it passes the blade. This high-tech push stick applies downward pressure to both sides of the piece being cut.

I have been using a pair of Grr-ippers for nearly two years now and have never had a kickback incident.

Also, as a rule, I try to never stand directly behind a board being cut.

[Al Navas]

http://www.google.com/images?q=tbn:r9dRJAyBqPtbiM::www.joelertola.com/tutorials/brain/gifs/Brain.gif

Greg,

The fact you ARE thinking about it tells me you have what it takes to minimize the risk of kickback. And that is really what it is all about. Whenever we use a table saw, there is always the risk of kickback. But using proper methods and techniques, and especially stopping to think about every cut we make, will minimize the risk.

A quick search in the Internet using the phrase "table saw safety" yielded several articles to read. As good as any place to start, Woodshopdemos.com has a great article I would use (http://www.woodshopdemos.com/safe-1.htm); please remember, this is only the start. The rest is up to you, and asking question, and, better than anything else, always asking yourself "...is this a safe cut?..."

My own personal experience: NEVER, never, never rip a board on the table saw unless you have jointed one edge. And I mean, NEVER...

PLEASE, if you have any questions, post it here, or via PM, or e-mail, or phone call, or... You are likely to always get the help you need.


.

[Don Morris]

Ditto to the above. Any kind of a splitter is indicated and The MJ splitter is a good one. I have the Grr..ripper also and use it when indicated. 2 Grr..rippers for long pieces. It's good you have a healthy respect for the Table saw. It deserves it. The day I don't, it'll bite me. Just like cars, they kill people every day, but I still need to drive mine to get things done.

[Todd Pawlowski]

I'm pretty new around here as well and have been enjoying my time reading past posts to gain knowledge. One thing I have noticed for 'ripping' boards on the table saw is that the folks over in Europe tend to use a 'short fence' whereas we in the US have full length fences. You can modify your saw by just using a temporary add on fence that ends about half way next to the blade. The theory behind it is that if the board has an area of relief after the saw blade it may be less likely to catch the back of the blade causing a kickback. Plus once the board has already made it to the halfway point of the blade it has already been cut so why does it need to be pinned against a fence. Actually I have noticed this 'tip' popping up in more magazines and best practices type books. It seems to make sense to me but requires a different way of thinking about ripping boards and the fence system.

Todd

[Carlos Alden]

Greg:

I bought a table saw about four years ago and had to wait about five months until our garage/shop was constructed before I fired it up. I CLEARLY remember the first time I turned it on. I felt like returning it - there was so much torque and power in that spinning blade, and I was sure I'd lose control of something and slice my guitar-playin' hand right off.

But I thought about all the woodworking that is safely done, and re-read my table saw book (Kelly Mehler - very good book), and approached things with care and caution, thinking through things before I did them. I also rechecked the setup on the saw. So far I have all my digits still attached and feel very comfortable with this beast.

I always use the blade guard and splitter. ALWAYS. I don't see any reason not to use one except for dado or non-through cuts, which I don't do. I made a zero-clearance insert. I installed board buddies which I think helps more as a redundancy system. I stand in the right place. I use all the right techniques that I learned from the book (and also Kelly Mehlers excellent DVD on table saw use I got from the library - its very instructive to see someone used proper techniques instead of just reading about them. The slow motion shot of kickback is worth the price of admission alone.)

In short, it's a lot like the first time you sat behind the wheel of a car and your Mom (Dad, driving instructor) said "okay, back out of the driveway.") You managed to somehow learn to drive and (as far as we know) haven't yet injured yourself or destroyed public property.

It's important to pay attention to what you're doing and think things through first, especially with a technique you haven't done yet. If something doesn't feel right or doesn't make sense, don't do it yet.

Carlos

[Bill White]

I use Board Buddies, GripTites, feather boards, push sticks, anything that will keep the workpiece in contact with the table and fence. I always use the splitter and pawls unless making a cut not completely through the workpiece.
BE AFRAID-BE VERY AFRAID.
So far, I still have all the fingers.
Bill;)

[Chris Padilla]

I use a bandsaw for ripping of >1" thick stock. Bandsaws do not kickback the way table saws do.

[Robert Chapman]

Al's point on jointing one edge before ripping on a TS is well taken AND that jointed edge is the edge that goes next to the fence. It's also important to make sure that the board is not warped so that it will bind during the cut.

Todd's comment on a European "short fence" are intriguing - any pics of these fences?

[Alan Schaffter]

Al hit the nail on the head, literally. There are many products and procedures to help minimize kick-back. NONE are foolproof, but the BEST is between your ears. Also, being cautious and respectful of your machines is good, being afraid IS NOT.

Getting back to the brain issue- knowledge of what causes kickback, how to avoid it, experience, and common sense are the best ways to avoid kick-back. I have only experienced two, non-injury kickbacks in over 30 years of woodworking. I was not using the "Best" tool when the two exceptions occurred.

[Danny Thompson]

Aside from the splitter and blade guard advice, here are my top 10 TS safety rules::

1) NEVER FREEHAND ON THE TABLE SAW--i.e, always use a fence or something that slides in the miter slot to stabilize and make sure the work slides in line with the blade
2) Take the time to adjust your fence parallel to the blade. This is HUGE!
3) If you have any doubt about whether you will keep the board flush against the fence throughout the cut, then use a featherboard.
4) Use push sticks whenever possible. I like the shopmade L shaped ones because they maintain downward pressure and better grip on the board. I use one on top and, frequently, one sideways on the cutoff side of the board in place of a featherboard.
5) Never lean or pass your hand over the blade. Get some outfeed support for ripping pieces longer than your table--I hate the portable rollers like this: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100026516&N=10000003+90327+530616 because they cause the board to track in a direction that is not in line with the saw blade. Instead, Ridgid has a similar flat outfeed aid that works great:
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100618242&N=10000003+90327+530616 . Better yet is a custom outfeed table that matches the width of, or is wider than, your TS.
6) If your offcut is very thin, you need a Zero-clearance-insert or your piece may jam in the mouth of the saw. If it Jams, stop the cut, immediately--do NOT jiggle the wood! Can you say, "Lift-off?"
9) Unless you are really good at catching sharp wooden frisbees, if the board is wider than it is long, then use a miter guage (Short lightweight pieces) or crosscut sled (long >18", or heavy pieces)--i.e., if the piece wobbles while you slide it, then use the crosscut sled; never make cross-cuts with the board butted against the fence.
10) If you are tired, angry, sad, talking, excited/thrilled, in love, high, or in any way distracted--go crack open a bottle and sit on the couch.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

The brain.

[Nissim Avrahami]

Hi Greg

You touched a subject that is almost as big as the "Table saw operation"....

I'll try to "shrink" it a little bit.

In my opinion, there are two types (or causes) for a kickback:

1. Operator induced kickback - i.e. the operator moves the board or doesn't hold it firmly attached to the rip fence...the back teeth will grab the board and in a split of a second you get an UFO.....

This kind of kickback can be minimized buy using anything that will hold the board tight to the rip fence till the end of the cut...like, Board Buddies, feather boards or even push stick to push the workpiece toward the fence with your left hand just before it enters the blade...

Of course, a splitter (or better, Riving knife) and the Anti-kickback pawls will help also to minimize the kickback (but, I read somewhere that, the Anti-kickback pawls just shuttered to pieces in one occasion of a kickback).

2. Reactive wood kickback i.e. after the wood is severed by the front teeth, the part between the blade and the fence "springs" out toward the fence but, the fence is stronger and the wood is pushed into the awaiting back teeth and Zooooooooooom.....

The other case is that the wood "Springs In" and "locks" the blade (happened to me once but no kickback occurred)

To minimize this kind of kickback, you must use a "short fence" - a rip fence that extends up to the center of the blade....when the severed wood passes the center of the blade, even if it "Springs out" it will not press on the fence because....there is no fence....no fence - no binding...no binding - no kickback...

Just to clarify, the "Short fence" is used ONLY when ripping SOLID WOOD, when cutting man-made boards, the long (the normal) fence should be used.

Regards
niki

[Charles Lent]

You should always have a strong respect for your power tools and know what can happen if things go wrong while you are using them. This applies to all ower tools and not just the table saw. Knowing what can go wrong, and knowing how to properly use them, will go a long way to keeping you safe. Some power tools, like a table saw, need a little more respect and training than others, but this should not make you so afraid of it that you don't use it. Learn what causes table saw kickback and then take measures to prevent it, like using a splitter with pawls, standing to one side of the board instead of directly behind it as you feed it into the saw, keeping your saw and fence properly aligned, using feather boards or some other type of hold down device, etc.

I have great respect for my Delta Unisaw. I always keep it tuned up, use a splitter and pawls when possible, and stand to the side of the board when I'm feeding it in. I also keep myself constantly aware of the blade position and the board edge-to-fence position, as well as where both of my hands are located, at all times during the entire cutting process, and I never reach over the blade while it's spinning. I've added a safety switch to prevent the saw from starting when I need to reach into it or change the blade, as I can't easily disconnect my saw from it's power source near my saw. If your saw's plug is accessable, then unplug it when you need to reach into it or change your blade. In addition, I have a ceiling mounted laser that shows the cut line across the top of my saw whenever it's running. It doesn't show up on the saw very well, but shines brightly on my fingers, if they should accidently be placed in front of the blade while I'm feeding the board in. After 50 years of woodworking I still have all 10 of my fingers (no sawblade injuries - not even a knick) and I have had no kickback injuries (there have been kickbacks). Those who don't respect their power tools and who don't follow the safety rules for using them are destined to be injured, possibly severely.

If you are that afraid of your table saw, maybe taking a woodworking class where you can get supervised experience using a table saw would help you get past this fear, or maybe another experienced woodworker friend could be with you while you make your first cuts with it to double check your actions. You will quickly overcome your fears and enjoy a lifetime of woodworking after you get some experience using it.

Charley

[Lee Schierer]

I don't have a splitter on my say and I can't even remember the last time I had a kick back. The key is a well tuned saw. If the saw blade is exactly parallel with the fence you will hve few if any kick backs. Frankly I don't think they actually do anything, but I will not debate that here since many folks have their minds made up about them. If a splitter gives you confidence then use it. I don't see where a splitter actually increases your risk of a problem.

Now people talk about reaction wood all the time. I'm sorry, but I rarely see that from my hardwood lumber supplier which supplies only kiln dried S4S materials. I do see it in construction grade lumber from the home centers. I think in all the hardwood projects I've built, I've had one or two pieces bow during a cut in 20-30 years. Maybe their wood source is the problem.

I use feather boards and or my magnetic Grip Tites for ripping. The best product for you is the one you will actually use. For me the grip tites work well and are fast to get on and get off the saw; therfore I aqctually use them. My dad had a variety of hold downs that he tried and none worked well because they took too much time to set up and therfore didn't get used for the "one of a kind" cuts.

When you are fearful of the cut you are making there is probably a good reason. I always listen to that little voice in my head and try to find another way when I am fearful of making a cut. I was bit once by my saw with only minor skin damage and don't care to have it happen again. It is proper to have respect for your tools. Don't operate them if you are afraid of them.

[Nissim Avrahami]

Now people talk about reaction wood all the time. I'm sorry, but I rarely see that from my hardwood lumber supplier which supplies only kiln dried S4S materials. I do see it in construction grade lumber from the home centers. I think in all the hardwood projects I've built, I've had one or two pieces bow during a cut in 20-30 years. Maybe their wood source is the problem.
Hi Lee

I'm only 13 years in the hobby and never had a kickback nor "Bowing" (or "reactive") wood...but the possibility is there.

Only one time I had a "Reaction wood" that closed on the blade and just stopped it....

It was during the time that I took pics of a WIP so I had the camera....

Regards
niki

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[Robert Chapman]

Nissim - in your earlier post you state that a short fence should only be used for ripping hardwood and a long fence used for man made boards. Why?

[Rod Sheridan]

Nissim - in your earlier post you state that a short fence should only be used for ripping hardwood and a long fence used for man made boards. Why?


Accuracy.

Man made wood doesn't have reaction wood so the binding is eliminated.

The long fence can be used without worry......Rod.

[Jim Summers]

Aside from the splitter and blade guard advice, here are my top 10 TS safety rules::

10) If you are tired, angry, sad, talking, excited/thrilled, in love, high, or in any way distracted--go crack open a bottle and sit on the couch.

I second the #10 that Danny mentions. Along with it, "DONT be in a hurry". I think that can contribute to forgetting about safe practices.

HTH

[Jim O'Dell]

Greg, your TS 3650 should come with a splitter/guard if it is like my older TS 3612 (predessor to yours). It tilts with the saw blade by mounting off the back of the saw. This will help a lot on most all through cuts. Non-through cuts are a different animal.
Never let go of the wood until it is past the blade. You don't want the wood to catch between the blade and the fence. This is where the push stick comes in handy. Also, never bring the cut wood up over the blade, or back to you beside the blade. Another big help is to have an outfeed table so that the cut wood has something it sits on until you can come around the saw and retrieve it.
Like others have said, it is all using your brain to make sure you aren't doing something stupid. Jim.

[Steve Griffin]

I don't think two other things have been mentioned yet:

1)Proper Blade height:

The only kickback I have experienced to speak of was a warped piece of black walnut which was so far off the table the blade couldn't cut all the way through near the mid point of the cut. It shot across the room and dented the garage door. So make sure the blade is hi enough to have no chance of doing that!

2) Body position. Stand on the non-fence side of the blade as much as possible. In the above incident, I was safely out of harms way because of where I was standing.

-Steve

[Ted Calver]

..but I have had good luck with this simple, removable drill bit splitter from a magazine tip. Just use a bit size that matches your blade kerf. Easy on, easy off and it works....just took me a couple of holes to get it placed right :)

[Chris Padilla]

..but I have had good luck with this simple, removable drill bit splitter from a magazine tip. Just use a bit size that matches your blade kerf. Easy on, easy off and it works....just took me a couple of holes to get it placed right :)

A couple???!!! :p

That isn't a bad idea and good for a quickie if you need it in a pinch! I might be apt to replacing it with drill rod so it would be smooth but I guess wood doesn't get hung up on the drill's sharp edges?

[Greg L. Brown]

Great suggestions everyone. I esp. like the comment about jointing and edge before a rip cut (they taught us that in my quick "intro to power tools" class); I don't think any books recommend that.

I just got Kelly Mehler's DVD from the library last night, so I'll have to watch that.

One question: What is the MJ Splitter?

Here's my TS:http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100608588&N=10000003+90401+527281

It has a decent splitter, with pawls, on it. Is the MJ splitter worth the upgrade over the Ridgid factory one?

I plan to never take the splitter (and pawls) off unless I have to. The clear guard is awlful though; I have already taken that off.

Thanks again,
Greg

[Chris Padilla]

One question: What is the MJ Splitter?

Microjig Splitter (http://www.microjig.com/MJ%20Splitter.htm)

[Phil Green]

Hi Lee

I'm only 13 years in the hobby and never had a kickback nor "Bowing" (or "reactive") wood...but the possibility is there.

Only one time I had a "Reaction wood" that closed on the blade and just stopped it....

It was during the time that I took pics of a WIP so I had the camera....

Regards
niki

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Niki is right on!

Two weeks ago, I bought some 2x4 hemfir culls from a local big box to make sticker stock. There were a number of supplier stamps on the various pieces, one brand had more reactive wood than I have ever seen! This stuff was so reactive I couldn't rip a 4' length without having severe kickback problems. My saw needs a tune up, to be sure, but the quality of that stock was terrible (hence the cull).

As I cut through my pile I became able to recognize which ones were going to give me problems, so I avoided them. I wasn't going to take a chance and used them again so they ended up in the fire.

Phil

[Rod Sheridan]

Maybe this is the best type of product?

[Mike Goetzke]

Greg - for the TS I would highly recommend a Shark Guard. You will use it because it is so easy to take off and put on. Plus you get the benefit of top side dust collection.

I'm a little on the opposite end of the curve that you are on. I have been using a TS for around 30 years as a hobbyist. Almost two years ago I bought a circular saw rail system to trim down sheets of ply so they would be easier to handle. I happened to buy a Eurekazone system, they have a spot on the manufacturers forum, but, there are several of these systems on the market. Ends up there are all kinds of components to add to the rail to duplicate TS functions. With this type of system the wood is stationary and the moving blade is below the table. I feel so safe cutting wood this way I really don't use my cabinet saw very much anymore, but, I'm not looking to get rid of it anytime soon. Might be worth taking a look at.


Mike

[Cody Colston]

Greg,

The best thing that you can do to prevent kickback is to understand what causes it. Purchase a good book on TS useage like Tolpin's "Tablesaw Magic" and read it thoroughly...then read it again. Before you perform a particular operation, get the book out and refer to the part that describes how to do that operation.

A tablesaw (or any power tool) can be dangerous but only if you don't know or don't follow sound technique when using it. Remember Norm's advice to "read, understand and follow all the safety rules that come with your power tools. Knowing how to use your power tools properly will greatly reduce the risk of accident."

As for purchasing something to eliminate kickback, by all means use a splitter and if you want more, there have been enough suggestions already to keep you researching for a while.

But, regardless of how many gizmos you purchase, you will still stand a really good chance of getting hurt unless you understand the tool and it's usage. "knowledge is power" certainly applies here.

[Al Navas]

Maybe this is the best type of product?
I have a feeling that power feeder costs a lot more than the table saw...But I am not sure...:eek:


.

[Nissim Avrahami]

Nissim - in your earlier post you state that a short fence should only be used for ripping hardwood and a long fence used for man made boards. Why?

Hi Robert

It's because man-made boards never have an internal stresses like the solid wood...

I would like to show you a reply of Metabo (my TS maker) - I asked about the short fence...

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Dear customer,

thank you for your email regarding the setting possibilities of the rip fence.

Reactive woods (not dead woods) can move to the side just after cutting. That´s why there might be the risk of a kick back if the rip fence is set in the long position.
In order to minimize this it is recommended to set the end of the rip fence to the saw blade centre (short position).

For sawing dead wood like chipboards it is recomended to set the rip fence in the long position in order to achieve the maximum guiding length.

The riving knife is absolutely necessary and the correct position of the rip fence has to be chosen according to the wood!

If you have further questions please feel free to contact me.
Furthermore enjoy woodworking!

With best regards

-------------------------------------------
Florian Fischer
Produktmanager Holzbearbeitung
Product Manager Woodworking

Phone: +49 (0) 70 22-72-2529
Fax: +49 (0) 70 22-72-2074
Email: ffischer@metabo.de


Regards
niki

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,

It has a decent splitter, with pawls, on it. Is the MJ splitter worth the upgrade over the Ridgid factory one?

That's what I thought also until about the fourth time I'd taken the splitter/guard off and put it back on.
After about the fourth time, it just seemed to go all to pot and it's never been right since then.

I picked up a Leecraft RG-1 ZCI for my TS3660 and a couple of MJ splitters. Amazon has a good price on the ZCI - $21.99.

For the stock blade on the TS 3660, you'll need to get the thin kerf MJ splitter (which is why I have a couple of them :rolleyes: - I bought the standard one without thinking, and when I went back to get the thin kerf one, I picked up the super duper model - again, regular kerf).

Being new, I'd highly recommend getting the Leecraft ZCI and examine it very close as to how it's made. You can use it as a blank from then on to make your own ZCI's out of 1/2" MDF or plywood or whatever suits your fancy.

Enjoy your new TS3660! It's a lot of bang for the buck.

[Jason White]

I have the same saw.

If you're just starting out and are nervous about kickback, use the guard assembly that comes with your saw (blade guard, splitter and anti-kickback pawls). They are more than adequate for preventing kickback.

Jason


My table saw scares me. I recently bought a Ridgid contractor table saw (TS 3650), but I've been hesitant to use it because I'm scared of kickback (I'm newer to woodworking). I want to be sure I learn how use my TS safely before I start using it more. I really wish I had a riving knife, but saws with that feature were outside of my budget.

Anyway, short of having a riving knife, what can I buy to reduce (or virtually eliminate) kickback? I did some searches here that turned up "Board Buddies" and "Grip-Tite" magnetic featherboards. Is one better than the other? Is there something better?

What about magazine articles about products to make a TS safer? All the "How to use a TS" books I've read seem to, curiously, leave out products one can buy that makes a TS safer. I'm sure Woodworking magazines have tackled this subject. If you know any articles I'd love to know. I'd love to see some reviews.

Thanks,
Greg

[Bill White]

I really like the idea about the bottle and sitting down even though I'm not mad, etc. Its just after 4:00pm on Friday.
Bill;)

[Rod Sheridan]

I have a feeling that power feeder costs a lot more than the table saw...But I am not sure...:eek:


.

Probably, however he did ask for the BEST method, and the best method of avoiding injury is to let a machine get injured instead of a person.:D

I know that the money was way out of whack, however a feeder is an incredible addition to a saw.

regards, Rod.

[Homer Faucett]

Now people talk about reaction wood all the time. I'm sorry, but I rarely see that from my hardwood lumber supplier which supplies only kiln dried S4S materials. I do see it in construction grade lumber from the home centers. I think in all the hardwood projects I've built, I've had one or two pieces bow during a cut in 20-30 years. Maybe their wood source is the problem.

I suppose that's one way to look at it, but there are other ways to get kickback without reaction wood being in the picture. One is to cut a piece of wood that is not S4S. That's how I get cherry at $.25 per bf instead of the going rate of $4.00, and I have to cut it down to at least one straight edge and no wider than 6" to fit on my jointer. A guard/splitter or riving knive helps out quite a bit there.

So, you are absolutely right that buying your stock S4S and kiln dried goes a long way to helping you avoid kickback--especially when you don't use a splitter. However, I get to spend more money on tools by buying rough sawn lumber. If I did not use a splitter or riving knife, I can assure you that I would run into a kickback situation quite often. That's really a question of how one processes their lumber--or who processes it for them. I like to see projects from tree to finish, but that's just my personal preference. At any rate, my point is that each person will have a different take on this depending upon their projects preference for wood processing, not to mention the wood variety and source.

In the end, I think we are making parallel statements, Lee, but with different viewpoints. You wouldn't give up your hardwood supplier, and I wouldn't trade my old barn beams, rough cut cherry, and tiger maple for stuff from a hardwood supplier. That's what makes this an art form--different perspectives and methods of work!:)

[Chip Lindley]

Operator Cognizance!! Learn to tune up your saw accurately! Watch some vids of tablesaw use and technique! Understand WHAT causes kickback! Better yet, get an experienced TS'er to check you out on the saw.

A *frightened* approach to using the saw is just as dangerous as a heavy-handed, devil-may-care attitude toward the machine. YOU control the actions of the saw! It does not CONTROL you!

[hank dekeyser]

RESPECT THE SAW !! If you don't It WILL BITE YOU !!
At any rate, having 30 plus years under my belt using a Table saw, I would recommend taking an "introductory" class at a local tech college ?? Maybe see if there are any woodworking clubs, etc. In your area and seek out local hands on guidance. There are many things in this post I disagree with but none of which are unsafe. The number one thing is do not be afraid. Don't put anything on the saw that is too large for the saw table to handle. Build or buy pushsticks and keep them handy. NEVER reach over or around the blade YOU WILL GET CUT sooner or later. My rule of thumb is anything under 2" wide I use a pushstick (you may want to expand that to 3" or so 'til you get comfortable.)
If something goes haywire, cover your groin and duck !! (had a piece of 2" foam kick back at me - yup - nut shot) Heck, I could write a book- you're on the right track though. Oh yeah, one last thing - Eye protection and ear plugs (after all the years w/ saws, routers, etc. I have tinitus 24/7 - 365)

[Joe Chritz]

Al beat me.

I have nothing further to add except I have had two and both were caused by not fully thinking when it was required.

Joe

[Jack Wilson50]

I have the Rigid TS, the splitter and pawls that come with it work very well. So, get them adjusted properly and use them and you should not have any trouble as long as you use proper technigue.

Good luck and be safe.