No7 Stanley - recommend restorer

[Roger Barlow]

Anybody got a recomendation a company or person who specializes in restoring metal planes? I've picked up an old No 7 that has some light surface pits and rust, but I believe it could be surfaced lightly and reground flat & square with little metal loss and made into a great user. Just didn't want to send it to any ole T&Die shop. Thanks Roger

[Bill White]

Check out ALL the postings on the Neander section dealing with plane restoration. Save the money and get to understand the plane at the same time.
Bill

[Greg Cole]

Have you verified it needs to be ground flat? Usually a bit of elbow grease and some sandpaper will flatten a sole unless its REALLY bad.
The clean up and "derustification" isn't that much work really. Evaporust or a citric acid bath will get rid of the gunk and any surface rust.
After that, it's only a matter of sharpening the iron. Not sure of whether you use hand tools now or not, but sharpening is the gateway to success.

I'd suggest you try it yourself, you will have a better knowledge of the tool and how to set it up, use it etc one you've taken it apart and put'er back together.
All told it's a couple of hours.

[Hank Knight]

Johnny Kleso, A/K/A "rarebear," does a great job. See his web site at: http://www.rexmill.com/.

[Don Morris]

I'd ask the people in the Neandethal Heavan forum

[Richard Niemiec]

Over on woodnet there's a guy with the handle "Tablesaw Tom" who regrinds soles and cheeks, does one hell of a job, you might want to check him out.

RN

[Roger Barlow]

Thanks, I'll post on Neander, I currently use several planes, LN's and a couple of Stanleys, I just don't have the time to spend on cleaning up this one, plus I'd like this one a little more than cleaned and tuned.

[John Dykes]

+1 on "Tablesaw Tom."

I wasn't aware that Johnny machined them, but would trust him to do so.

[Jim McFarland]

Another satisfied customer of "tablesawtom."

[Pam Niedermayer]

I don't know that it would necessarily be cheaper/better, once you add in the original cost plus shipping two ways, than just buying a LN/LV/ECE/etc. Not trying to discourage you, merely suggesting that you rethink this.

Now, if you're a collector and this #7 is a superior example, go for it.

Pam

[Johnny Kleso]

I'm Retired from do planes :)

You welcome to read my website and do your own :)
Its something everyone should know how to do I feel.........

[James Tag]

Most machine shops can grind the sole flat, try to find a small one where the owner is there, and not too busy. I just dropped a #7 Lakeside jointer off at a machine shop down the street, i should have it back within a week. Take all the hardware off and bag it before you go, and try to explain the rudimentary dynamics of the sole and throat so they don't mess it up. The rest you can do yourself.

[george wilson]

It is extremely easy to clamp a plane body too tight on a surface grinder,and have it spring into a warp after it has been ground. I recommend lapping the sole flat on wet or dry paper glued onto a granite surface plate,or thick piece of plate glass. Use the spray on adhesive to avoid lumps on your sanding surface.Might be more cost effective to buy a new LN or LV. They both use A2 steel now,much better than the old Stanleys,and their castings are thicker. Plus,the LN's are malleable iron ( don't know about the LV off hand). They won't usually break if you drop them because they have had the excess carbon cooked out of the iron.