Materials for templates

[Charles E. Goldblum]

I need some advice...

I am building a rocking chair that will involve up to 10 templates. My initial though was to use 1/4" Luaun Ply for the template material, but now I am concerned that it will not last long enough (I intend to keep these templates for a long time.)

Should I go to the trouble and expense of 1/2" Baltic Birtch? Whould I applt a coat of poly to the templates to keep them out of harms way?

Any advise would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Charles

[Jim Becker]

I generally make my templates out of either 1/4" hardboard or more likely, 1/2" MDF. I sure don't put a finish on them, however. They just hang on the wall until the next time they are needed. (Used a 6 year old one from the NYW Adirondack "template set" this past weekend to replace a part that broke)

[Doug Jones]

Same as Jim Becker, 1/4" hard board used for templates.

[Dan Mages]

Another option is plexiglass. Its lightweight and easy to cut.

Dan

[Byron Trantham]

Another vote for hardboard. :p

[Frank Pellow]

Hardboard for me too. I have used templates that are more than 20 years old that I made from hardboard and then stored in a dry cool place.

[Todd Burch]

Charles, if you are only using them as a template for tracing a pattern, hardboard is a good choice.

However, if you want to use these as a pattern for routing for a bearing piloted bit, I would suggest using 1/2" baltic birch, or, coating the edges of the hardboard with epoxy.

[Brad Schmid]

Charles, if you are only using them as a template for tracing a pattern, hardboard is a good choice.

However, if you want to use these as a pattern for routing for a bearing piloted bit, I would suggest using 1/2" baltic birch, or, coating the edges of the hardboard with epoxy.

Todd,
I like your epoxy idea. I've noticed some wear on some of my 1/2" mdf templates from bearings. I was thinking hdpe tape on the edges, but epoxy sounds cheaper and easier. Thanks for the tip.

Brad

[Mark Singer]

I use MDF or baltic birch. Bandsaw an 8th over and rout to the template using "T"nuts to hold the template to the peice...some sandpaper keeps it from moving when tightened

[David Klink]

The templates I've made for the intarsia I've done have mostly been from 1/4 hardboard. I've used 1/2 plywood for routing templates as well.

[Charles E. Goldblum]

Thanks.

I appreciate the advice. Since I will be using the templates as a router (and robo sander) guide, I thinks I will use 1/2 baltic birch.

Charles

[Chris Padilla]

(Used a 6 year old one from the NYW Adirondack "template set" this past weekend to replace a part that broke)
Shoddy workmanship, Jim? ;) :p :D

[Jim Becker]

Shoddy workmanship, Jim?
Naa...but even cypress has its limits when out in the weather 365 days a year. The lower rear seat-back support on one chair cracked when a "larger" visitor was here a couple weeks ago. It let go completely last week when Dr SWMBO sat down and needed to be replaced. Fortunately, the stainless screws come out really easily, so replacing a component on this particular design is a piece of cake, especially when you have templates! :D

[Kent Cori]

It let go completely last week when Dr SWMBO sat down and needed to be replaced. :D

Okay, Jim does this mean that you had to fix the chair or get an new wife? ;)

[Jim Becker]

Okay, Jim does this mean that you had to fix the chair or get an new wife?
Fix the chair, smartie! :p

[Ian Barley]

I use MDF - Usually 6mm (1/4"). Works good for me. Like Jim says - Hang em on the wall and once you've made 'em never get rid of 'em - You will use them again someday.

[Chris Padilla]

There was an article about Sam Maloof in AW or WOOD and there were a few shots of him in his shop...templates were hanging all over the place...they probably had to move a few to get some decent photos!