dovetail jigs-Leigh, Akeda, regret from 18"?

[James Biddle]

I've started my hunt for my next perfect dovetail jig. I'm considering the Leigh and Akeda offerings in the 18" and 24" versions. I excluded the PC because I don't like tapered sliding dovetails. Although I don't intend to make many blanket chests, I used my previous heavy, cast iron 16" Omnijig to it's width capacity for drawers and certainly don't want anything smaller. Does an 18" jig provide the capacity of 18" of sliding dovetail or is it smaller because of some jig limitation (VRS?). My primary focus is on through, half, and sliding dovetails, with a small amount of finger joints. Varying the spacing is good, but I'm not too interested in "infinite" anything. I generaly make dovetails every three months or so, but for large quatities (i.e. kitchens), I'll buy the drawer boxes out. Loaded out with the accessories I want (prices from: Highland Hardware, Lee Valley, The Jigstore.com), we're looking at about:

24"
Leigh D4R (w/VRS, bits, and finger joint template) - $870
Leigh Super 24 (w/VRS, bits, and finger joint template) - $690
Akeda BC24 (w/C-Kit) - $630

18"
Leigh Super 18 (w/VRS, bits, and finger joint template) - $610
Akeda DC16 (w/C-Kit) - $500

Has anyone regretted buying an 18" over the 24"? I belive these are the top of the line products that I would consider. Given your experience and these prices, what would you buy?

[Charles Robertson]

Hello Jim, if you check my other posts you will see that I'm a biggoted fan of the Akeda 24". It's the only quality jig that I'm user/familiar with. I'm somewhat challenged between the ears but even I was able to master (am I even allowed to use that word) the Akeda 24". Highly recommend it. I use story sticks to keep a record of my pins and tails for different drawers. Repeatability was simply a matter of laying the stick on top and making pencil marks, (a few seconds time). Good luck on your choice. Al

[Steve Rozmiarek]

James, I was just thinking about sliding dovetails, and I really can't remember cutting any less than 18". Seems like I usually design chests of drawers and other large casework furniture for 18" drawers, which mean the carcass is about 19". I use them as my go to carcass jointing method in most larger furniture cases, and I have a 24" Leigh, not sure which model.

If you build this way you will be restricted to 18" sides which is marginal for some furniture, I think. Not impossible to work around, but.

[Jim Eller]

James,

My thoughts are in this thread, http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=102835

For what I do and what I've learned, I wouldn't give up my DC24 Akeda.

Jim

[James Biddle]

For the Akeda owners, it looks like you need to create a custom spacer every time you use sliding dovetails to adjust the fit. Is that true, and if so, does it take long from pulling out the box to producing a finished sliding dovetail?

For the Leigh Super Jig owners, can you make basic finger joints without buying the finger joint template like you can on the D4R?

[Thomas Pender]

In my experience, it is not that you must use the custom spacer, it is just with them you usually do not, by mistake, push the router where you do not want it to go and ruin the piece. I wish Akeda would sell the spacing material a cheaper price, but truthfully, I get to resue most of my spacers time and time again as long as there is not too much of a difference in size and even then I throw nothing out. You could even consider using a little block with two sided tape and stick to the inner edge.

I have found you really need a clear base for your router to make it work well with the Akeda jig. When in doubt, Pat Warner sells them and the ones I have bought for my Bosch routers have been perfect. Dust collection is a major strength.

[James Biddle]

In my experience, it is not that you must use the custom spacer, it is just with them you usually do not, by mistake, push the router where you do not want it to go and ruin the piece. I wish Akeda would sell the spacing material a cheaper price, but truthfully, I get to resue most of my spacers time and time again as long as there is not too much of a difference in size and even then I throw nothing out. You could even consider using a little block with two sided tape and stick to the inner edge.

I have found you really need a clear base for your router to make it work well with the Akeda jig. When in doubt, Pat Warner sells them and the ones I have bought for my Bosch routers have been perfect. Dust collection is a major strength.

Thomas, it sounds like you're describing the spacer for not routing into the space between pins when cutting through or half blind dovetails. My question related to using the Akeda for sliding dovetails.

Odd, in all my searches of the Akeda jigs, I haven't found any posts from people who've used the Akeda for sliding dovetails.

[Chip Lindley]

I'm a Leigh fan! From WayyyBack! I bought my 24" D4 from *Trendlines* back in the '90s! ($350 then) It does all I need it to do, And it does it WELL!

I suppose the dovetail jig makers felt they had to include sliding dovetails in their *reporitoir*, or they would be seen as slacking! But, nobody needs an expensive jig for sliding dovetails. A little trial and error at the router table, against a straight fence with featherboards, and *WaahLaah*!!! Sliding Dovetails!

Repeatable thru and half blind pins and tails are what ANY of the jigs specifically do best. They do finger joints well too! Past that, any of the jigs lose their utility for me, but thats ME.

Buy Once! Cry Once! Get the 24" version fo whatever brand you decide on. Then you can't say you lack *capacity*!!

[Loren Hedahl]

I wouldn't expect to find many woodworkers with experience using each of the brands mentioned. Many may have compared the two via brochure and made a decision on one or the other. So that's what you will also need to do.

Obviously they are both qualified and worthy contenders for your dollar. Ask around and you will find someone who has one, and possibly someone who has the other.

In my case I have the Leigh D4. The reason I went with it in my original thinking was I didn't want my drawer height to be predicated on the dovetail increments available by my jig. Therefore, I reasoned, a jig that had adjustable fingers would be worth the extra money.

Even though some would laugh at my simple-minded reasoning, I never worry about getting an exactly half-pin at the top and bottom of my drawers. I just set the end fingers to suit, fill in appropriate fingers in the center and go.

One thing to factor into the D4, in case you haven't already, is that when making through dovetails, it is a great convenience to have two routers, one for the straight bit and another for the dovetail bit. For half-blind dovetails, only the dovetail bit is used, so there is no need for the second router.

I can't address the Akeda, since I've never used one.

One word of sage advice: If I had it to do all over again, I wouldn't purchase a dovetail jig. I would only use through dovetails and either hand saw them, or saw them on a band saw. On drawer fronts where I just had to have half-blinds, I would laminate a thin drawer front over the through dovetails. The money I didn't spend on an expensive jig, I would spend on a top quality spray gun, if I didn't have one already.

That's just my opinion.

[James Biddle]

Thanks everybody, D4R w/VRS is on its way! I did put off buying the finger joint jig and extra router bits until I have a project that needs them.

[Jack Wilson50]

+1 for what Chip wrote.

[Charles Lent]

James,

You won't regret the D4R purchase, but you may wish that you had bought the router bit set with it. I didn't buy them immediately either, but ordered them right after I used the D4R the first time. I also bought their F2 finger joint (box joint jig) a few months later and I'm very happy with it. It makes box joints that fit perfectly, just like the dovetails.

Charley

A satisfied D4R, VRS, F2, and FMT owner

[Al Navas]

Thanks everybody, D4R w/VRS is on its way! I did put off buying the finger joint jig and extra router bits until I have a project that needs them.
James,

Congratulations! You will enjoy your D4R a whole bunch, especially with the VRS doing its job. The very first few times I used my old D4, I got so engrossed in what I was doing that I ended the sessions with chips up to my knees, literally!

You can always buy the bits at a later time; I did something similar, although in the end I bought (rest of) the entire set.






...
A satisfied D4R, VRS, F2, and FMT owner
Charles,

The F2 is possibly the highest on my priority list. Your collection is larger than mine... :D And, no question about it, I must get the F2 - possibly in the not-too-distant future...


.

[James Biddle]

I was leaning toward the Whiteside bits when it comes time to add them. They've been a staple in my shop for years now and I know what to expect with them. I don't have any experience with the Leigh bits yet, so I thought I'd try the ones that come with the D4R before making a final decision.

I figure I'll add a second router setup before I get around to adding the finger join template, but we'll see. Amazon has the PC 690LR for $94 right now and it's tempting.

For those using 8mm shank bits, do you use a reducing adapter on a 1/2" collet or an 8mm collet? Cheapest I can find an 8mm collet for the PC is around $25 and $50 for a pair of them seems a bit steep.