Replace the extension table on C.S.

[lowell holmes]

I need to replace the ten year old particle board and laminate extension tableon my tablesaw. The old one is 13/16" thick with a very thin laminate on it that is coming loose. This is the table to the right of the saw, not behind it.

Have any of you had luck with reactivating the adhesive with a heat gun?

I have my router mounted in the center of the table. I take the router out except when using it. :)

I have considered using malamine, but I'm not enamored with that choice.

I'm not a mdf fan, but I might consider putting formica on a sheet of it and using it. I would likely make a white oak frame to put in as a router insert.

Whatever I use, I will make a new table behind the saw to match.


What have you used for this application?
TIA!

[lowell holmes]

Actually, I'm looking for suggestions on what materials to use. :-)

[Russ Kay]

A few years ago I replaced the right-hand stamped steel wing on my Jet contractors saw with a homemade router table. I made the table from two pieces of 3/4 MDF laminated together, with formica (left over from a kitchen remodel) on the top. Works like a champ, the formica lets things slide easily and smoothly.

-- Russ

[Chip Lindley]

The manufacturers SPARE lots of expense in making their extension tables. I found a factory replacement table for my PM66. It is 3/4 particle board with very thin dark green laminate. The framework beneath could barely be called *hardwood*. The old ext. had 3 braces front to back. The new one has only 2.

A top made of MDF, adequately braced around your router cutout, with the white oak frame will be just FINE. Use of countertop *Formica* will give you a top which will last. l use solvent-based contact adhesive. I'm not much on the latex varieties, especially in cooler weather. (but you can IRON them on if they fail)

As for heating your top to iron it back on, this is hit and miss. The contact cement may re-adhere, BUT any sawdust,etc. that cannot be gotten out from between will make a nice lump under the lam. I would try and remove the lam completely and reglue it in one piece, for best results. OR trash the thin stuff, thoroughly clean the subtop with a solvent to get it SMOOTH and use thicker cabinet grade lam, if your frame is otherwise sturdy and to your liking. Afterall, its already attached to the saw and your fence is attached to it! Saves lotta WORK!

[lowell holmes]

Thanks,

I had considered the mdf and counter top laminate. I have a piece of it that was used on a computer desk a few years back. I guess I will finally get it out of my shop. :-)

[Todd Crow]

I am making an extension table for my new Griz 1023. (stealth gloat :)) I made a frame of 1x2 poplar and topped it with 5/8 plywood. I banded the exterior edges with some Oak I have. I have glued some Formica on the top. I have to poly the wood and then bolt it in.

Todd

http://www.crowsnest.us/images/DCP_0947.jpg

[David Christopher]

Lowell, I made a torsion box and covered with melamine and wraped it with cherry...it works great

[John Sanford]

This is giving me some good ideas. I need to replace the extension wing on the right side of my saw as well. 'Tis simple stamped steel. I'm wondering, has anybody ever used a chunk of granite countertop? Should be doable....

[lowell holmes]

You could serve Thanksgiving dinner in that shop. WOW!

[lowell holmes]

That is a nice extension. Thanks for sharing. That looks like something to do for the rear extension table as well.

[Bob Genovesi]

I remade mine out of this stuff available from Woodcraft.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s225/BobbyG53/Plywood.jpg

WoodCraft (http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=131170&FamilyID=3958)