Jet JTAS-10XL: Stock Splitter and Blade Guard?

[Danny Thompson]

So, between projects, seems like a good time to bump up safety around the shop. Last summer I bought a used Jet JTAS-10XL cabinet saw. Of course the blade guard and splitter were long gone.

I can get a replacement from Jet for $90. So, the question is:

Are the stock splitter and blade guard any good?
Maybe a better question is, does anyone still have this splitter and blade guard on their Jet 10XL?

[Dave Falkenstein]

The stock guard/splitter on the older model Jet saws is sad, IMHO. If you are going to spend money on a guard for an older Jet saw, spend it on something good, like a Biesemeyer splitter or a Shark Guard. Or I'll give you the splitter/guard from my Jet cabinet saw - but you get to figure out if it will fit and you pay for shipping. Email me through SMC if you are interested.

[Danny Thompson]

That's what I figured. What are you using now, Dave? Anything? Is there a difference in quality between the Biese and Shark?

[Jim Becker]

When I had the nearly identical saw, I promptly threw out the stock guard and splitter and put on a Biesemeyer snap-in splitter and Excalibur overarm guard. The former was on the saw 100% of the time that a through cut was involved and the latter used more sporadically.

[Dave Falkenstein]

That's what I figured. What are you using now, Dave? Anything? Is there a difference in quality between the Biese and Shark?

I had an accident 15 years ago using a table saw with the stock guard removed - in a hurry, tired, dumb. I will not use my table saw (now) without a guard, unless the cut makes using a guard too difficult (or impossible).

I have a similar setup to what Jim Becker used to have - Biesemeyer splitter and Excalibur overarm guard. Very nice, but expensive. The new model of the Excalibur has a nice feature - it rotates out of the way when you are doing dados and other operations where the guard interferes. My older model must be removed, which is not all that easy to do - it is heavy and akward to handle.

The Biesemeyer splitter is a great option. Note - the Biesemeyer is compatible with full kerf blades, not thin kerf. The independence of the splitter from the guard is a good feature.

I installed a Shark Guard Whale Shark cover on the Excalibur for better visibility:

http://www.leestyron.com/whaleexcal.php

I have no experience with other Shark Guard products, but I have read many good comments about them. Dealing with Lee Styron when buying the Whale Shark was excellent.

[Rod Sheridan]

A third vote for overarm guards.

I'm using an Excalibur with a Merlin splitter on a General 650, although it doesn't matter wht saw you have, the overarm is the best guard available.

They have great dust collection, and can be used for non through cuts, no reason to ever remove the guard.

If you have to remove the guard, you're either doing something the machine isn't designed to do, or you need a different guard.......Period.

David doesn't use a saw without a guard, and has been generous enough to share his misfortune with us to encourage us not to make a similar mistake.....I for one, believe in learning from others, it hurts a lot less!

regards, Rod.

[Joe Spear]

I put a Shark Guard on my Jet Xacta, and it works just fine.

[Rod Sheridan]

The Shark guard has the same issue as the stock guard, it cannot be used for non through cuts.

If you never make non through cuts, the Shark is a good choice.

Regards, Rod.

[Dave Falkenstein]

I agree with Rod that an overarm guard and a removeable splitter is a great combination. There are very few cuts that require removal of the overarm guard. As I recall, the last time I took the Excalibur guard off the saw was at least a year ago, maybe longer, and I cannot recall the specifics. The Excalibur lifts vertically for cuts where you need some space around the blade, for example a dado cut using Grr-Rippers above the blade to guide and hold down the material. Having the guard in place well above the blade raises your awareness of saftey. The Biesemeyer splitter must be removed for non-through cuts. The splitter snaps in and out in a few seconds. Otherwise, the splitter remains in the saw.

[Joe Spear]

[QUOTE=Rod Sheridan;1034317]The Shark guard has the same issue as the stock guard, it cannot be used for non through cuts.

If you never make non through cuts, the Shark is a good choice.


But the Shark Guard is very easy to remove for non-through cuts. The stock guard is not. Short of getting a saw with a riving knife, easy removability of the splitter and guard is about the best you can do for non-through cuts.

[scott spencer]

Hi Danny - I've got a Bolt On Ripping Knife on my Shop Fox saw that works quite nicely, that is essentially an aftermarket riving knife. AFAIK, there's a prototype in the works for Jet JTAS XL. If that's something you'd be interested in, your best bet is to contact Bob Ross at Walnut Acres Woodworking (http://www.walnutacrewoodworking.com/Online_Store.php).

[Rod Sheridan]

[quote=Rod Sheridan;1034317]The Shark guard has the same issue as the stock guard, it cannot be used for non through cuts.

If you never make non through cuts, the Shark is a good choice.


But the Shark Guard is very easy to remove for non-through cuts. The stock guard is not. Short of getting a saw with a riving knife, easy removability of the splitter and guard is about the best you can do for non-through cuts.

No Joe, removing the guard easily for non through cuts isn't the issue.

The issue is that you then don't have a guard.

That's what makes the Shark guard a non starter, it has the same design defect as the stock guard.

The best you can do is an overarm guard, or of course, not make non through cuts on the tablesaw.

Regards, Rod.