Bowl Gouge.. Stupid question #2!

[Brian McDermaid]

Thanks for everybody's help on my first stupid question (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=101695). I now have a Nova Midi chuck on its way to my house (whoot!).

Now i need some type of sharp metal thing to cut the wood with.. I currently have:

3/8-inch gouge
1/2-inch skew
1/8-inch parting tool

Some other important factors... I have a midi lathe so my bowls will be under 10 inches. I am incredibly cheep.

Whats the recommendation for a poor-mans bowl gouge?

~Brian

[Bernie Weishapl]

I would take a look at Thompson tools. His tools are reasonably priced and will hold a edge longer than most. I would say 1/2" V shape bowl gouge for hogging wood on bowls would be as big as I would go.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Brian - Bernie has suggested what is probably some of the best tools out there and you would not be disappointed in their performance!

However, if you are starting out and are 'cheep', then I suggest taking a look at the PSI gouges. Lots of folks have been happy starting with these as they work and don't break the bank. Just something to consider.
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LX220.html

[Reed Gray]

The cheapest option would be to buy the gouge unhandled, and make your own handle. Dougs gouges give you the best steel for the cost of a lot of other gouges. You can find cheaper, but not better.
robo hippy

[Jim Kountz]

+1 for the PSI of the Thompson. The latter of course being the first choice.

[David Drickhamer]

I have both a PSI 5/8" bowl gouge and a Thompson 1/2" V bowl gouge and like them both but the Thompson is far superior. It cost twice as much and you have to make your own handle but you can't go wrong with Thompson. At this point in the game if your still learning how to sharpen I'd go with PSI then the Thompson.

[Burt Alcantara]

One way to go (no pun intended) is the Harbor Freight turning set. The advantage of this set is you'll have something to practice sharpening on as you're sure to wear them down to stumps. That's how most of mine ended up.

After 2 years, I'm finally getting rid of all of the HF tools and standardizing on Thompson Tools. I can sharpen a lot better now so I'm not concerned about making metal stumps from the tools anymore.

Sharpening takes time, even with a jig so don't despair if you can't shave with your tools. That will come in due time.

Good luck,
Burt

[David Christopher]

one way to go (no pun intended) is the harbor freight turning set. The advantage of this set is you'll have something to practice sharpening on as you're sure to wear them down to stumps. That's how most of mine ended up.

After 2 years, i'm finally getting rid of all of the hf tools and standardizing on thompson tools. I can sharpen a lot better now so i'm not concerned about making metal stumps from the tools anymore.

Sharpening takes time, even with a jig so don't despair if you can't shave with your tools. That will come in due time.

Good luck,
burt



what bert said

[Gordon Seto]

If the debate is whether to buy a cheap gouge in order to cost less when butchering it up during grinding, I would suggest take a lesson learning how a proper grind should be and how to use it first. With a sharpening jig like Varigrind, it shouldn't take more than 15 minutes.
Bill Grumbine has done a bowl gouge clinic for our Club. Members brought in their problem bowl gouges for him to fix. I was amazed how many of our Club members who have no idea how a bowl gouge grind should be. The most common mistake I have observed was they were afraid to waste tool steel and not rolling the gouge enough. They have a big lump on each cheek of the side grind. It would be an open door for catches. Bill hardly changed any angle setting. After tweaking, he let the members to try out the new grind on their bowl gouges and made sure everybody knew how to use their gouges. Turning requires hands, eyes and body coordinated movement. Learning from other’s experience is better than reinventing on our own.

[Kevin Hampshire]

You asked about bowl gouges but I think you'd also benefit from some time spindle turning and sharpening your gouges.

For spindles, the HF and PSI tools are really a great bargain.

For a bowl gouge, I'd say skip the PSI. I have all three sizes they sell but you are better off buying a better quality. They have a certain potential but not for your one and only bowl gouge.

Get the bettter quality bowl gouge and only buy one very good quality one. Skip lunch, haircuts and buy generic dogfood to get a better bowl gouge. If you wear it down sharpening then that's okay.

KH

[Jake Helmboldt]

Bear in mind that HF sells a super cheap set of lathe chisels that are to be avoided. (and they don't include a bowl gouge)

I have a small PSI bowl gouge and it actually works quite well. I just bought a Thompson and it holds a much better edge, but the PSI holds its own.

That said I'm not impressed with some of PSI's customer service. And I try to avoid Chinese tools. So if you don't mind making a handle then Thompsons are a bargain.

[Scott Conners]

Thompson 1/2" V or 3/8" V, and you get spindle practice making a handle! My first bowl gouge was a 3/8" Henry Taylor from Amazon for $40, and I really like it a lot, especially the handle.

[Doug Thompson]

Brian,
I'm glad you asked, there are two ways to go about buying your first tools. First is to purchase a low cost set which will have a couple tools that you will find usefull then you will continue to add until you have the tools that work for you. Second is do the same thing a professional does... learn to use a couple of tools well. The fact is one bowl gouge is enough to turn a bowl, sure it would be nice to have another bowl gouge but it's not necessary. I've spoken with most professionals and provide tools for many, the number one bowl gouge they ask for is the 1/2V shape flute. People like Johannas Michelsen, John Jordan, Jimmy Clewes and many more... David Nittmann just asked for a bowl gouge and guess which one. That said;

Buy one 1/2 inch diameter gouge... it doesn't matter what brand with a V shape flute then learn to use it. Make mistakes on this one tool and don't worry if you loose a 1/4 inch of steel... we all did the same thing.

[Tom Godley]

Can't really argue with that.

I started out ...........learning the Elisworth grind -- so that first tool was of high quality. I also purchased the proper jigs to continue making the grind correctly. I then purchased a set from PSI -- it has been a great set to have. It allowed me to see, feel, use and sharpen all the basic tools that one may encounter starting out. I have already modified one and just purchased an additional 5/8 from PSI to make a 85 degree tool for the bowl bottoms. The 85 is not used very much and the HSS is fine.

Having to sharpen the tool a little more is a good thing IMO - it not only teaches you the proper way to sharpen it allows you to notice the difference between dull and sharp on the wood.

I just read an article from last year where they analyzed the tool steel to see if it was up to the standards as sold. The Benjamin's Best from PSI did meet the standards for HSS but some purchased on ebay did not.

[Reed Gray]

The Harbor Freight tools will grind away a lot faster then Dougs tools. Mostly that is the difference in the hardness and quality of the tools, not so much your sharpening abilities. With the jigs available not, this is an easy task. You can also make your own jigs.
robo hippy

Nothing is idiot proof. If you do make some thing that is idiot proof, then some one will invent a better idiot.