Dovetail Jig Recommendations

[Eric Garner]

I'm in the market for a dovetail jig, and I'm hoping to get some recommendations. I've done a little research and at this point I don't think I need anything as versatile (or as expensive) as a Leigh. I'm getting ready to start cranking out some drawers for the kitchen cabinets I'm building. I decided to go all out and order Blum Tandem Under mount slides. So, I think dovetails might be in order. I'm planning on building the drawers out of 1/2" maple.

So, does anyone have a suggestion on a dummy proof jig that I can crank some drawers out with?

Would the "Keller Dovetail System 135-1500" be my best bet?

Thanks!

[Bill Huber]

I think for knocking out drawers I would go with the 4210 Porter-Cable (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=19695)or the 4212 Porter-Cable (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11437) with will do though dovetails were the 4210 will only do half blind.

The 4212 is a very easy to use jig and once set up you can knock out dovetail like mad. I would say if you are wanting though dovetails I would use 2 routers if I could.

[Rob Grubbs]

I have the Keller and can definitely recommend it for through dovetails but you are probably going to want to do blind for drawers. Like Eric says, the PC jigs are great for those.

[John Grossi]

Eric, I agree with Bill. Porter Cable 4212 is excellent. Sometimes PC packages a router with it. John

[Ed Labadie]

Sorry to disagree, but my PC 4212 is a piece of junk. Absolutely impossible to make half blind dovetails that actually fit.

Ed

[Ed Gibbons]

I have Leigh 16. Comes with an excellent instructional DVD and a fine instruction manual.

I just completed my first set of half-blind dovetails and they came out looking good. Only problem I had was with the wood not being completely square. For the first time, I realized why I needed a jointer. After 10 years of semi-serious woodworking, I finally purchased a jointer.

:cool::cool::cool:

[Don Morris]

I have the PC 4112 for 1/2 blind dovetails and the Keller for through dovetails. Once set up, the PC works OK. The Keller is easier to set up. Your choice.

[Myk Rian]

HF makes one that does half blinds in 9/16" stock. About $40.

[chris dub]

Lowes has the PC4210 on clearance at some stores for ~$80. And you can get a $20 mail in rebate from PC. You can get the form on Amazon if you search for a PC4210. For a specific project not a bad option.

[Bill White]

I think for knocking out drawers I would go with the 4210 Porter-Cable (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=19695)or the 4212 Porter-Cable (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11437) with will do though dovetails were the 4210 will only do half blind.

The 4212 is a very easy to use jig and once set up you can knock out dovetail like mad. I would say if you are wanting though dovetails I would use 2 routers if I could.

Since I don't do a lot of thru tails, I opted for the 4210. SWEET!!! One tiny adjustment and I had dead on blind tails.
Go on line and get the complete instruction manual. It will guide you thru additional capabilities.
Bill (the other one)

[Jim Eller]

Eric,

The following is from this thread, http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=98823&highlight=dovetail

Here are my two cents worth.

I purchased a PC 4212 from Woodcraft and after six month of frustration I sold it. I realize many have had great results with this jig but I just couldn't get it to work for me. I'm sure much of it was operator error.

I then went back into two months of the research mode and decided it was going to be a Leigh or an Akeda. I watched live demo's on the Leigh and video's of the Akeda and Leigh. They were both close in my mind but, for me there was still too much room for operator error with the Leigh so I choose the Akeda. I used the KISS theory.

Dovetails are some thing I would not be doing every day and I didn't want a steep learning curve everything I got it back out. It's so easy, "Even a caveman could do it".

The Akeda has done everything I expected of it. My first through dovetails were cut within an hour after I opened the box. And....they were perfect. Tight with no gaps. That one hour includes milling the material and reading the manual.

I have since many, many boxes, Marc Spagnoulo's clocks and other project and have not have to waste a single piece of material. Sounds like a fairy tale but it true.

I'm sure it's not the jig for everyone but it works wonderful for me. The only real drawback was the price, but I got over that with my first dovetail.

I use blue tape on the back side of the material and have only had one minor tearout. I have used hard and soft maple, black walnut, oak and purpleheart.

If you want to see a couple of pics, e-mail me. I don't know how to get them up here. I'm too old to learn too many new things at once.

Here are some of the reviews that sold me, especially the one here http://www.akeda.com/reviews.web.html (http://www.akeda.com/reviews.web.html) by a guy named Charlie B. He writes on a number of forums and is a guy who says what he thinks. Some others are: http://www.woodshopdemos.com/aked-1.htm (http://www.woodshopdemos.com/aked-1.htm), http://www.inthewoodshop.org/reviews/akeda.shtml#b (http://www.inthewoodshop.org/reviews/akeda.shtml#b)

Some of the reviews are for the 16" version. I have the 24" version. I bought it because I can set it up for pins at one end and tails at the other if the material is less than 12" wide. I use two routers.

Oh.........and did I mention dust/chip collection. Virtually nothing on the floor or in the air.

I also called Akeda in Canada at 877 387 6544. The guy that invented the thing, Kevan, answered the phone and spend all the time I wanted with no sales pressure. I purchased mine from http://www.thejigstore.com/index.php (http://www.thejigstore.com/index.php). Nice folks also.

Good luck in you search.

Jim in TN

[Rob Young]

Since I don't do a lot of thru tails, I opted for the 4210. SWEET!!! One tiny adjustment and I had dead on blind tails.
Go on line and get the complete instruction manual. It will guide you thru additional capabilities.
Bill (the other one)

Disclaimer: Not a commercial, just happy with my 4212 purchase.

You can upgrade the 4210 to a 4212 or 4216 through the addition of templates, bits and collars. The base unit is the same for all. Don't have part numbers handy but a little prowling around at http://www.deltaportercable.com/jigs/dovetail/ would probably turn them up.

[James Sweeney]

I own the Akeda 16 inch model. I purchased for a steal on woodcraft's web site about a year ago. I was torn between akeda and Leigh and eventually went with Akeda because of the reviews on how simple it was to use. I have to say it's completely true. I had never even tried dovetail joints before and I spent about 20 minutes viewing akeda's web site video's and read the instructions in the manual. My first dovetails turned out great. I really like the fact that there is very little learning curve with the akeda. I also don't use dovetails very often and forget techniques after I don't use them for a while. I recently had to make a quick drawer and had not used the jig for a while. I spent about 10 minutes reading the manual and that was all I needed to make some more quality dovetails quickly. I highly recommend the akeda if you want a jig that can make quality dovetails with little learning curve.

[Clint deal]

I also have the Akeda 16 and love it. I had a couple of the cheepo units before and could never get them to work. The first time I got the Akeda out of the box I had my 1st near perfect set of through dovetails down in less than 45 minutes.
clint

[Bill Huber]

I really like the looks of the Akeda 16 but the only reason I didn't go with it was it is over $500 and for me I just do not do that many dovetails to justify the cost.

So for $330 difference you have to decide just how much you will be using the jig.

[Thomas Pender]

I am also an Akeda fan. I think its dust collection is the best and in combination with a clear base I got from Pat Warner for my 1617 Bosch, and extra bits from Woodcraft, it works sweet. I did not pay that much for it, but sometimes saving money means more labor and headache. Maybe you could try and buy one off of Craig's list or the classified here?

[Dave Novak]

I have exaqctly 9 drawers of experience with dovetails, all half blind. The fact that all 9 drawers came out perfect is testament to the idiot-proof ness of the incra jig.

[Gene E Miller]

Greetings & Salutations,

+1 for the Akeda.

Got mine on eBay with all the accessories for less than $300 including the shipping.

Very short learning curve was making thru dovetails in cherry hardwood in less than 30 minutes.

Never had a minutes regret that I spent the money.

Gene

[kevin a jones]

Lowes has the PC4210 on clearance at some stores for ~$80. And you can get a $20 mail in rebate from PC. You can get the form on Amazon if you search for a PC4210. For a specific project not a bad option.

Thanks for the heads up on the rebate! I purchased this last week on the Lowes clearance to use for some drawers. I thought 80$ was great but 60$ is even better! Thanks!

[Eric Garner]

The Akeda looks pretty sweet. It seems to provide the versatility without the setup time and manual study that the Leigh would require. Only downside for me is the price. Not sure I can afford it right now. I really need to decide if I can make the investment. It seems like a jig that would provide me the speed I'm looking for now as well as custom looking dovetails for 'finer' work down the road.

My kitchen cabinets will have false fronts so through dovetails will be fine for this project. So, if I go cheap, I'm leaning toward the Keller. It seems like it would be the fastest choice because the jig uses bearing based bits and no guide bushings.

One follow up question. What size shank do the other jigs call for? Keller 1601 and lower use 1/4" bits. It looks like Akeda also has 1/4" shanks. Is 1/4" standard for Dovetail jigs?

[chet jamio]

Does the Akeda allow for variable width pins like the D4R? Or is the pin spacing fixed like the Super Jigs?

[Bill Jepson]

I have an old PC 24" Omnijig and love it. Built like a tank, lifting it is my only complaint. So sturdy it will take a minor cup out of softwood when clamping. Carefull setup will make your first through dovetail successful. Even came with a USEFUL video.
Bill J (Yet another!)

[Mark Carlson]

The Akeda looks pretty sweet. It seems to provide the versatility without the setup time and manual study that the Leigh would require. Only downside for me is the price. Not sure I can afford it right now. I really need to decide if I can make the investment. It seems like a jig that would provide me the speed I'm looking for now as well as custom looking dovetails for 'finer' work down the road.

My kitchen cabinets will have false fronts so through dovetails will be fine for this project. So, if I go cheap, I'm leaning toward the Keller. It seems like it would be the fastest choice because the jig uses bearing based bits and no guide bushings.

One follow up question. What size shank do the other jigs call for? Keller 1601 and lower use 1/4" bits. It looks like Akeda also has 1/4" shanks. Is 1/4" standard for Dovetail jigs?

Akeda bits are now 8mm. The Whiteside versions are still 1/4. My Keller 2200 came with a 3/8 in shank with an adaptor for 1/2.

~mark

[John Keeton]

Eric, did you get my PM on the Keller? Just checking.

[Brent Leonard]

I have the PC 4210.
Although I just recently found the "extra/special" techniques manual online, I found the 4210's half blind joints looked, VERY MACHINED, non-custom & mass production. They did fit well and were very quick once everything is set up and you learn the jig. Certainly there is a time and place for production DT's. Kitchen cabinets, etc.... and that may be all you desire.

In retrospect I think I would have preferred a jig that could produce the typical "production" looking HB joints, yet also handle custom looking DT's also, as I build fine furniture pieces for enjoyment.

Apparently you can create some very custom looking joints with the 4200 series jig.... according to the "special" manual. I look forward to playing with those techniques!!

If you opt for the 4200, get the 4212. You'll be ahead $$ in the long run rather than buying the 4210, then adding the $70 through dovetail template later.

[Mark A Johnson]

This is a debate could go on for eternity. I started with the PC 4212, only using it for a short time. Then I decided to part upgrade to the new Leigh Super 16. I spent almost a month playing with the Leigh, and could never make a joint that I was happy with. Since Woodcraft is very good on customer service I was able to return it. This time I went back to PC, buying the new version of the Omni Jig. It did not take very long to produce a quality joint.

My local Woodcraft does have a 1 day class to teach people how to setup and use the Leigh. That tells me user are having trouble using the Leigh. The key with the Leigh is to keep very detailed notes of setting. The PC has the adjustable pods, once they are set, it on to joint making, not tracing back through notes trying to refigure what setting you used last.

[Charles Robertson]

Jim said it all. I also have the Akeda 24". Did all of the research. Read all of the reviews. This was to be my first quality dovetail machine. Also spoke to Kevin Lear who asked me more questions about my shop and where I live than I did about his machine. No regrets about my choice. It's a good example of you get what you pay for. If you choose the Akeda, I know you'll be happy. If you choose one of the other quality jigs, I think you may also be happy because the one you use is the one you are familiar with and you will get good results. All in all, I believe the Akeda is very reasonable for a complete ready to go jig. QUESTION, after 50+ drawers and boxes, diferent materials and demensions, do you think I like my Akeda? Good luck with your choice. Al

[Jim Rimmer]

I wish I had found SMC and read this thread before I bought my DT jig. I bought the Rockler jig. It works great and is easy to learn but uses proprietary bits. I would probably have sprung for the PC 4212 if I had it to do over.

[John Lucas]

Sorry to be so tardy in responding to this thread. Dovetail jigs are a favorite subject of mine. I have used and reiewed every jig mentioned and several that were not.
Here is a "Dovetail Jig Shootout" I assembled: http://www.woodshopdemos.com/dtshoot-1.htm


And my all time favorite woodshop assistant:

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/dts-in12.jpg

[Michael Koch]

I have two jigs that I use. I have the Leigh 24 and it is great. You have to keep very good records, so setup is easy and it can be very accurate. For half blinds, I purchased a Wood River half blind jig from Woodcraft. The directions are a bit scetchy, but after you get the setup fine tuned, it works great. For making quick drawers the half blind jig is quick and easy. MK

[Joe Scharle]

I have two jigs that I use. I have the Leigh 24 and it is great. You have to keep very good records, so setup is easy and it can be very accurate. For half blinds, I purchased a Wood River half blind jig from Woodcraft. The directions are a bit scetchy, but after you get the setup fine tuned, it works great. For making quick drawers the half blind jig is quick and easy. MK

Great manual for these type jigs.

http://www.grizzlyindustrial.com/products/Dovetail-Jig-w-Aluminum-Template/H0983

[Jay Stellers]

I would say if you are wanting though dovetails I would use 2 routers if I could.

I don't have any experience with cutting DT's so I apologize if this is a dumb question but why would you use two routers?

[Bill Huber]

I don't have any experience with cutting DT's so I apologize if this is a dumb question but why would you use two routers?

When cutting though dovetails you use 2 different bits, a straight bit and a dovetail bet.
So if you have 2 routers you can get one set just right for the dovetail bit and the other set just right for the straight bit. This way you don't have to reset the bits on each joint.

[Gordon Rands]

I also am planning to buy a dovetail jig. I have never used one before. I expect to make mid size boxes (for attractive storage in entertainment centers, etc), drawers (kitchen remodel, chests), and possibly eventually blanket chests (I have 8 granddaughters). I want to be able to do through, HB, and sliding dovetails, as well as box joints. I would rather spend the money on a tool that will do all I eventually need, rather than starting with the basics and ending up with three or four jigs after multiple stepping up.

Given all that, what I've read suggests that I have four choices: PC Omnijig, Leigh D4R, Leigh Super Jig, and Akeda. My sense is that the Omnijig and the D4R are more expensive and require too many add ons for what I'm looking for. I also saw the Omnijig at the Woodworking Shows, and it looked more complex than the videos and information on the Super Jig at the Leigh site. So I would be really interested in any thoughts on the Akeda vs the Leigh Super Jig. In particular:

1. Akeda emphasizes stability. Does use of the VRS with the Super Jig make it acceptably stable?

2. Akeda also emphasizes repeatability. Since the Super Jig doesn't have the [very large number of] settable lock-in positions, is it a lot less repeatable, or do they both require about the same amount of record keeping to be repeatable?

3. Given the possibility of blanket chests, I'm leaning toward the 24" jig. At Woodcraft's current Super Jig prices, you can get the 24" Super Jig for $60 more than the 18" (both with the comparable accessory kit including VRS). Seems like its probably worth it. Any comments of regret that you did/didn't buy a 24" model?

4. I know Woodcraft no longer carries the Akeda. Where are the best places to find it online?

5. Any comments on the touchiness of the E-bush system the Super Jig uses? I know you have to be sure to hold the router oriented the same way on every cut or the widths will be different. Is this a major problem?

6. Any comments on the stability of the carbon fiber fingers the Akeda uses? On the less expensive materials (than the DR4) the Super Jig uses?

7. I've gotten the impression that making variable width DTs is technically possible with either, but not easy. Any comments here?

Any other comments on things I should consider would be appreciated! Thanks so much for any input you have!

Gordon

[Jim Eller]

Gordon,

See my link in post #11 of this thread.

I am a completely satisfied Akeda customer, with the unit and the service. It does everything they say it will do and it is built like a tank.

My main reason for purchasing it was, I do not cut dovetails every day and it has a very short learning curve and you don't have to fiddle with it to get great joints.

Just one person's opinion.

Jim