Newel - how do i make it look like maple ?

[ravi patel]

Hi,
Have existing red OAK railings and Newel. How do i closely match to make it look like light maple ? Do i bleach it ? which is the best brand to use for bleach ?

How about painting it ? Any help would be appreciated. My current progress of the stairs is at the link below. Thanks

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=1028529#post1028529

[Maurice Ungaro]

Ravi,
You may have to faux finish the oak to get the look of maple. It may be problematic, since oak is such an open pored wood. If you were to finish it, you would be well served to fill the grain to get it nice and even.

[Chris Padilla]

Nice job, Ravi. I commented as such.

Oak will NEVER look like maple...I'm sorry to say. The two trees just grow so very differently with such different grain.

It would be a shame to have your new stairs/floors not look right if you didn't try to go with maple newels and posts and such. I know money is likely keeping you from doing this but I'm think you may well regret looking at the oak baluster/newels over time with such a nice (predominantly) maple floor....

I see that you mixed in dark-stained oak treads for the designs (very nicely done). Have you considered staining the oak newels and such the same color? That would flow better than trying to make oak look like maple....

[Bruce Shiverdecker]

My suggestion is:

1. seal the wood with shelac.

2. paint with "blond" wood fax finish

3. Look carefully at a peice of Hard Maple to see how the grain flows.

4. use a Gell stain that has a similar color to the grain on your sample Maple piece.

5. DRY BRUSH lightly to apply the grain pattern

6. cover with a clear finish, for protection.

Bruce

[Jim Becker]

As others have eluded to, you may be able to get the color to something close to what you want, but the texture will never be anything like maple. Even with using a grain filler, the oak will catch the light differently. That said, it's not unusual for there to be mixed species in some residential situations, so hopefully things will work out to your liking.

[Richard Wolf]

I agree with Jim. Don't try to make the oak look like maple, it will never look right without a very good faux finisher. There is no problem lettine the rails and post accent the other woods.

Richard

[Josiah Bartlett]

If the rest of your decor permits it, I agree with those who say let it contrast. I would go so far as to stain it very dark to make it look like you did it on purpose.

[ravi patel]

Thanks all for the input. Where can i buy a maple newel post in NJ? i can only find oak in HD and Lowes. I checked on-line and they are really expensive ($200+ !) Need only two post.

However poplar seems cheap, can i then just clear coat it?...it seems close enough to maple. Same with the railings ?


Chris you are right...am trying to save on cost..hence looking for all cheap alternative...the reason i want maple post and the railings is because i like to use the black metal balusters to contrast with maple. The other option i thought was to stain the existing post and railings mahogany red and use white wood balusters to contrast/match the auburn color strip used on the floor

[Maurice Ungaro]

Ravi:
A second look at your photos shows that all of your trim work is painted white. Why not go for the poplar (or EVEN pine) newel post, rail and pickets, and paint them to match your trim work? You save money, and have a unified look.

[Rich Lightfoot]

Let me start by saying I would never willingly attempt to do a 'blonde' finish again. I would only do it under extreme duress (i.e. the LOML yelling DO IT NOW!)

With that disclaimer, what everybody else has said is true but if you still want to try a blonde faux finish it can theoretically be done. Bruce outlined the basic steps but I would add a few:

1. You're obviously going to have to strip the existing finish.

2. I would bleach the wood. You could use lye but it has to be handled with care. Personal protective equipment is an absolute must when working with lye. A little less effective but much safer alternative would be good old Clorox.

3. Bleaching the wood is going to raise the grain like crazy (because of the water) so next is a lot of sanding.

4. Since it is oak I would fill the grain like others have said so fill and sand, sand and fill, fill and sand..............

5. Seal the wood with shellac or lacquer sanding sealer (Don't forget to sand again with 320 paper!)

Bruce says to paint a blonde finish, hopefully he knows something I don't that's easier otherwise......

6. Stain with a golden oak stain (You read that right, golden oak)

7. AFAIK the blonde finishes popular back in the 50's were done with successive coats of lacquer toner and dry brushing the grain in with a darker stain like Bruce suggested. I don't know of any current source for a blonde toner so at the risk of sounding like an old TV show head to art store and pick up some japan colors. Yellow ochre, umber and white. Mix these colors until you get something you like then mix that with lacquer for a custom toner.

8. Apply the toner. Sand again. If you don't like what you say try adjusting the tint of your toner.

9. If you do like what you see, apply a few clear coats of lacquer sanding lightly between each one.

10. Try dry brushing in your grain effects like Bruce suggested.

11. Apply even more clear coats of lacquer. Sand

12. The LOYL decides she doesn't care for the look so go and buy something she likes.

Sorry about the last step, that may not happen to you.

Good Luck

[ravi patel]

Bruce and Rich, thanks for the step-by-step instruction. I don't think i will take the stain/coloring route after reading the details of the steps. Might have to bite the bullet and buy the post and the railings likely the populr one. yes LOML is very picky !

[Richard Wolf]

For stair and rail parts in NJ. Call F.J. Newmeyer in Rahway, NJ. I'm not sure they sell to the public, but if they don't maybe they can hook you up locally.

Richard