Quickest Easiest Methond to Finish Natural Edge Bowl

[Paul Rains]

ONce I get bowl turned, what is the easiest way to sand and finish bowl? How much time should be given between steps if any?

Limitations, I will be turning bowls in 3rd world country with limited supplies

Thank you for quick responses

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Paul...I usually sand on the lathe...all except the tenon area. Then I use a donut chuck to removed the tenon and sand the area near it. Then the best and easiest finish I've found is Mini-wax Antique oil. I usually liberally apply some to the inside. I watch it really close for 10 minutes. If any area dries out..I slop on some more. After 10-15 minutes, I wipe off any excess. I let the bowl dry overnight. The next evening I repeat the process on the outside of the bowl and allow the bowl to dry by placing the bowl upside down over something that will hold it off the table surface...anything...a small jar ..anything that will keep the bowl from touching the table surface. I let that dry overnight. If after drying...either surface, inside or outside, doesn't look very similar, I repeat the entire process..inside and out. Usually two coats will give you a great finish. Then I let it dry for a week and buff the finish out.

I don't normally sand between coats.

That seems to work well for me.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I agree with Ken. I use mostly Antique Oil for my finishes on all my turnings even utility items.

[Paul Rains]

If wood is fairly wet, do you wait before you sand to allow it to dry out some, same on applying oil, do you wait and day or go ahead and put oil on after you take it to 320. How about mineral oil, I think it would be easy to get in Costa Rica area?

[Paul Rains]

is that similiar to Watco oil's? I have used those often on furniture. Any drying issues, and moisture in green wood?

[Paul Rains]

do you wet sand with oil? if so up to what grit?

[Steve Schlumpf]

Paul - Minwax Antique Oil and Watco Danish Oil are pretty much the same products - they are both wiping varnishes.

I am going to do some guessing here - you plan on turning bowls and they are for actual use and not created as art pieces. Chances are you are going to be turning green wood - so moisture would pose a problem.

Most of us who turn bowls start with green wood, rough turn it to 10% of it's diameter and then dry the rough out. The drying process can take a month or several months depending what process you use. Being as the natural environment in Costa Rica is on the humid side - air drying the bowls may prove to be a challenge.

Turning a green bowl to final thickness and then saturating the bowl with whatever finish you are going to use may work. I would think some type of food safe oil - like walnut oil or mineral oil would work for your purposes.

Any chance there is a turner in the location you are going to that can offer real-life advice as to what finishes work, drying problems, etc.?

Only SMC member who immediately comes to mind is Jim King and he runs a lumber operation out of Peru. He may be able to give you some practical advice. Hopefully Jim can assist - you can PM him here: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/private.php?do=newpm&u=7919

[Paul Rains]

I am going down to do mission work, I will teaching a workshop on bowl turning to some locals who will making bowls and pens to sell to tourist or others who come in to do mission work. Proceeds help to finance the many needs of a Nicarauquan refugee camp there, along with local church missions and family needs.

I think most NE bowls will be for decorative use. They are very limited with supplies and knowledge, and I don't speak spanish (but I will have translator), should be interesting. they have been doing very well with turning pens on two delta midi-lathes.

I am open for any ideas, suggestions or help??? :o

[JerHall]

You asked "what is fastest" so I would add to the above to use lacquer sealer before using Watco or the like. It cuts down on the number of Watco coats, and sometimes helps with sanding and uniform drying. I make my own with Deft Gloss cut 50% with lacquer thinner. Or you can use a couple coats of spray lacquer finish over the sealer and buff it with tripoli or more after a few days. That is fastest of all. And you can just buff thru carnuba wax over the lacquer sealer only if you have sanded to a high standard. In all cases I think the sealer should be your first step.

[Dennis Ford]

some good advise already.
I would recommend that you turn them to finish thickness from green material and then allow to dry before sanding. I usually reverse the bowl and turn the bottom before the wood drys. They will be dry enough to sand in 3 or 4 days. I use a close quarters drill with hook & loop sanding pads, your sanding may have to be a little more primitive so try to get as good a surface as possible while on the lathe. In addition to the oils mentioned, try Minwax wipe on poly with steel wool between coats.