A different question on electrical I need help with...

[Jim O'Dell]

Hi all! Question...I bought one of the Rockler paddle type switches right before Christmas when they were on sale at 17.99 and free shipping. 107918 It is 15 amp, appears to be a dual wire switch taking it apart. It is wired for 110 with in and out cables with plugs, but the wires are under screw terminals on the switch inside...easy to change. What I need to do is have a switch operate say the router and have a low amperage AC connection for the vacuum system turn on lead from the whole-house style vacuum cleaner my Dad salvaged for me. I'm thinking I only need to break the hot lead for the router, the neutral can be a pass through. Then I can use the other leg for the vacuum turn on lead. Anyone see any problems with that?
If you answered no to the first question :D, how can I run the low amperage AC wire from the wall to the router table? I would want some sort of plug in. It would have to be 2 prong. Do they make something like that? The wire pigtails left on the vacuum system is only 22 or 24 guage. I'll go with probably 16 guage when I do this.
I'm going to use this vacuum system to supply the suction for the in-fence pick up on the router, and on the other side of the shop for the SCMS shroud hookup. I'll have a third port for the standard house hookup that came with it for floor vacuuming. That hookup already has a switch built into it so when you lift the door to hook up the hose, it turns the system on.
Thanks for any ideas you can offer! Jim.

[Rick Christopherson]

Yes, what you are suggesting is fine. Just don't use a normal 120 volt plug for the vac system. Go to radio shack and find a low voltage plug, or find a more durable type on the internet.

[Jim O'Dell]

Yes, what you are suggesting is fine. Just don't use a normal 120 volt plug for the vac system. Go to radio shack and find a low voltage plug, or find a more durable type on the internet.

Thanks Rick. I knew I couldn't use regular house current receptacles, but I've not seen items that I thought would work for this. So regular low voltage items will work? I guess I thought that stuff was DC not AC. Guess it will work for both. I had thought about getting some more vacuum outlets that had contacts for power that is integrated into the hose, but it looks like 15' is the shortest hose they have, and that is way too long for what I need. Plus the outlets are about 25.00 each!!! :eek: Thanks for the suggestion. I'll look for that. Jim.

[Chip Lindley]

I may be missing something! Why are you talking low *amperage* to the vac system? And then you talk about using *low-voltage* plugs! Do not confuse low AMP with low VOLT.

The vacuum may well have a magnetic start switch which is low-voltage type! If the leads are very small gauge, it may be 24v same as your air conditioner thermostat is. Check out the ex-house vacuum system closer before applying house current to its switch! IF there is a transformer on the unit, I betcha its 24v A.C. Look before you PLUG in !

If the unit is LVC, like an A/C thermostat, you will have to plan further on how to turn both router and vac on from the same switch. 110v and 24v do not mix.

You could wire leads from your new switch to the 110v transformer input on the vac. Wire the 24v transformeroutput directly to the mag. coil. Now you have your new on/off switch powering both machines at the same time. But a 15a. switch may not handle both router and vac without risking burnout.

[Jim O'Dell]

No, I wouldn't be applying house current to it, just using the switch to "short" the 2 wires together to complete a circuit so it turns on, thus using 1/2 of the paddle switch for that, and the other side for the 110 volt for the tool. Since I will be using this vac in conjunction with the cyclone, I might just put a switch by the cyclone switch and turn both on at the same time. But thanks for the warning. Jim.

[Gary Chester]

If I'm following you... I don't think that's a good idea. It sounds like your new switch is a DPST and you plan to switch your 120 volt router with one side of the switch and a low voltage device with the other side. It will work, but if something shorts in the switch, your low voltage device will see the high voltage... and then you will see smoke and sparks.

[Jim O'Dell]

Gary, I've gotten that same information from Charlie on another forum, and it makes sense. I've decided to use a separate switch to turn the vacuum on by my cyclone, as both would have to be on anyway. Or I could get another relay that is triggered by 110 and let the cyclone switch do both. But if I'm at the TS, I don't need the vacuum on. Never easy, is it? :rolleyes: Thanks for the note! Jim.

[Chip Lindley]

Ohhhhhhh! Now I see! And, yes it would work, but kinda risky. Your plan for a separate switch is the safest bet. There are circuits that can be built that sense current when you turn on your router! The circuit will then turn on your DC/vacuum...IF you want to go to this much trouble. Fine Woodworking #68, p.62, and #143, p.66 have complete articles on how-to! This could apply to your TS also!

Or else, a simple remote control setup such as the very economical X10 will work *wirelessly* at the touch of a button! GoodLuck!

[Rick Christopherson]

This same switch is capable of having a 240 volt difference between its terminals.

Virtually every E-stop switch in a machine control system has one set of contacts at high voltage to disable control power, and a low voltage connection to tell the PLC that the E-Stop has been tripped. Do you think all of these electrical engineers would risk destroying a $5000 PLC system if this was a great risk?

[Jim O'Dell]

Well, I feel like Homer Simpson DOH!! (insert head slap sound here) :D. The way I wired my cyclone is of course through a relay, but the trigger wire is the end of an extension cord. It plugs into a switched receptacle in the ceiling by the relay box. I did this so that If I decided to do a remote later, it would just plug in between. Guess what? It's a duplex receptacle!!:o I can just run a longer cord from the vacuum to the other receptacle, and it will turn on at the same time as the cyclone. (second head slap at the back of the head ala NCIS for good measure) I can still run the turn on lead to a toggle switch there to turn it off easily when working on the TS where I don't need the vacuum. So problem solved. It actually dawned on me a minute ago when I was answering a wiring question on the Clear Vue forum and explained how I did mine. :rolleyes: Jim.