Faceplate question

[Bill Mitchel]

Hello all

On your faceplates, how deep is the start of the threads. I may be wording this incorrectly but on my "new" lathe, I only can get about 1 1/2 - 2 threads deep. The faceplate I have (I think it's a Jet) start 1/2" into the plate and only grab a little. My chuck is fine but there is no way I'm sticking that faceplate on there with so little holding it. I spoke with someone at Craft Supplies and they have one that starts 3/8" in, still not enough for me. Anyone know of one that starts the threads closer to the headstock?

Thanks
Bill

[Tom Wilson66]

I am probably not understanding this correctly, but it sounds like your spindle only sticks out about 1" from the headstock. Either that or your faceplate is less than an inch thick? Some more information would help me understand the problem.

[Richard Madison]

Bill,
For low budget approach try www.wbnoble.com (http://www.wbnoble.com) for faceplates. They weld a nut to a flat plate to make a faceplate. Suggest ordering them faced off for a couple bucks more.

[Leo Van Der Loo]

How much of an unthreaded part is there on your spindle Bill ???, also how much is your faceplate thicker than the the spindle end, as in could you remove enough metal from the back to get more thread holding ??.
You could go the way Richard mentions, or make or get one made from a nut and disk/large washer.

[Steve Trauthwein]

When I took a class with Lyle Jamieson he said you want seven threads to hold a piece securely.

Regards, Steve

[Gary Max]

If you could borrow a tap to run into the faceplate----that might do the trick.

[Art Kelly]

I'm either misunderstanding you, or your faceplate is defective.

Here are three of mine--a Delta, an aftermarket, and a Rikon. All 1" x 8. All bottom out on the spindle--same as a chuck.

[Malcolm Tibbetts]

Bill, to really take advantage of the solid connection that a faceplate provides, it's not just the number of threads. It's important that the faceplate "seats" itself snugly against the flange of the spindle. Without that connection, you'll experience unwanted vibration. The same holds true for chucks.

[Dennis Ford]

Mine are home-made, using a nut welded to a steel plate. After facing them square on a metal lathe, I turn them around and remove about an 1/8" of threads so the faceplate will spin up to the shoulder on a spindle. In my opinion, most of the factory faceplates do not have enough holes for screws. I would not be comfortable with only 2 threads of engagement, if you have a failure there the spindle will be severly damaged.