How do I make this cut?

[Russell Tribby]

I have most of the golf ball case built. I just received the crown this week, it's a flexible composite. I had one of the pieces formed to the appropriate radius for the middle cabinet. How do I make the cut at the intersection where the arch ends and it flattens out? It seems to me that if I cut it directly at that intersection the edge of the arched piece will be wider than the straight piece and the profiles won't line up. Is that true? Or will it be okay since the crown is not laying flat? I've never worked with radiused molding so I'm kind of stuck on this one.

[Dave Westover]

A saw. You'll need a saw to cut that. Probably a sharp one.












:D

[Russell Tribby]

Thanks. I had been thinking of using piano wire.

[Doug Shepard]

This is from a guy that despises cutting compound angles so take it for what it's worth. But I always try to rig something up so that I'm only cutting one angle. Since this wont end up lying flat, I'd screw it through the back to a carrier board (the end pieces as well) with blocks behind it to prop it up at the angle it needs to sit at, then proceed to cut the joints. Since you're taking the tilt angle out of the cutting problem, you only have to deal with the angle (or lack of one) between the pieces.

[John Grogan]

I had the same problem when I was making the gooseneck molding on my most recent grandfather clock. The angle of cut changes the length of the molding. I tried calculating the angle but it did not work. So I made sure I had a little extra and trial and error-ed it. Sorry I couldnt be more helpful.

[David DeCristoforo]

The angle of the miter will be as shown in the attached by the red lines. NOT @ 45 degrees! The lines in the drawing are inaccurate as indicated which makes visualizing this difficult.
107861

[Russell Tribby]

Am I correct in thinking that the spring of the crown will not affect the angle since I'm not turning any corners but just extending the profile at a different angle?

[David DeCristoforo]

The crown is all on the same plane. So you are "theoretically" correct. But any slight change in the projection angle (spring) will affect the miter angle as the two are related. The tricky part is going to be getting the correct angle on the curved piece. I would lay this out full scale on the bench. Then take some short straight pieces and mock up the angle. Then you will have a better idea of how to cut the ends of the curved piece.

[Russell Tribby]

Thanks David. I've been working towards what you have pointed out after playing around with this the last hour. I'm grateful that I can cut this joint flat. The thought of having to do otherwise seems daunting. Thanks for pointing out the flaws in the drawing. I didn't realize that until earlier this evening when I started to lay everything out.

[David DeCristoforo]

When you lay it out, draw a simplified version with all of the lines crossing as shown here:
107862
Then connect the intersecting points (red lines) to get your angles.

[Jim Dunn]

Dave, you make that sound so easy you must have done it at least 100 times:), maybe more.

Every time I come to the Creek for a drink I learn something!

Russell good luck.

[Russell Tribby]

Here's the finished product. I ended up making full scale drawings. I cut the curved piece laying flat with a Festool ts55 and guide rail. The two mating pieces were cut on my miter saw and it was trial and error figuring out the correct angle.