Cutting thin segment spacers

[Ben Richardson]

I am trying to expand my segmented turnings too include a Greek key and other designs. This requires cutting some thin (1/4" or 1/8" inch) segments. I have tried the band saw but each segment was a different thickness. On the table saw with my cross cut sled I loose about every second one to a kick back. So, do any of you segment turners have a good method for cutting small segments?

[Dewey Torres]

Ben, you should equip your sled with hold-downs on each side of the blade to prevent kickback:

See here (http://www.marleyturned.com/id137.htm).

[Thom Sturgill]

I believe Rockler (no connection, just a customer) has a jig for cutting thin strips on the tablesaw. I think its on clearance right now.

I have seen plans in one of the woodworking mags last year, but can't remember which. If I can find it when I get home I'll edit in the magazine info. Basically, you need to set a stop block on the opposite site of the blade from the fence (like you would put a featherboard). It allows you to move the piece over to the stop and reposition the fence without measuring and gives consistant width. The piece needs to be able to fall away from the blade and not be between the blade and the fence.

[Dewey Torres]

Oops Ben,
Ignore my other post. I Missed that you are ripping.

Do you have a grrriper? If not that is my recommendation. Get 2 so you can leapfrog them or see here for a guy who made his own (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=101242&highlight=microjig). For the 1/8 inch strips you cut through the traction piece on one side of the jig.

[Ben Richardson]

The problem is I am not ripping I am cross cutting. Just like slicing Bologna at the lunch counter. I tried holding the small segment with a push stick that also got cut but it did not work very well.

[Dewey Torres]

Do you have any pics?

[Richard Madison]

Ben,
Are you cutting angled segments or straight spacer pieces? One of my sleds has a spring-loaded "grip arm" with a curved steel "finger" that holds the cut segment. Not sure if it would do 1/8" pieces, but I have run it VERY close to the saw blade at times, being sure, of course, that it would clear before starting to cut. This was for angled segments, so the cut segment was partially trapped by the angled stop block. Not sure it would work for straight spacer pieces.

Edit: Found a poor BGC (before good camera) picture.

[Doug Reesor]

I haven'tput one together but I like the looks of the design Malcolm Tibbetts suggested for a raised stage for your table saw with a tapered ramp to allow pieces to fall away from the blade instead of catching.

Doug

[Dave Halter]

Ben,
Are you trying to crosscut and use the fence thereby trapping the cutoff and causing the kickback? I think a picture or more detailed description of the operation is needed to figure out the problem.

Dave

[Art Kelly]

This idea was in a book of TS Jigs & DooDads a while ago. Naturally I can't find the book, but I'll keep looking.

I added the little hold-down block to the handle and would probably add a bigger one if I ever re-did the tool. The pusher at the back is glued on so it can be replaced. It should be oversize for the first cut and cut with the first segment so it stays right behind the segment as it goes past the blade.

Every piece comes out the same thickness and there's nothing to change from segment to segment.

Also, a zero-clearance insert should be used. I forgot to put it on for the photo.

Art

EDIT: I've never used the sled for crosscuts, and after thinking about it for a minute, I guess I'd clamp the work to a miter gauge to stabilize it from wobbling as long as the stock was longer that wide.

[Richard Madison]

Art,
With a couple of mods, that might solve Ben's problem. Might consider a longer "hold down" block with height adjustment for various stock thickness (fixed hole in the handle and slot in the block). Maybe a blade with about 70 more teeth for cross cutting. You been cutting concrete?

Seriously, like your sled and understand that your version is intended for rip cuts. The pusher block could be made taller so it would not get cut off, and longer to act as a miter gage. Crap, now I gotta go make one from an old segment sled. Maybe next week.

[Ben Richardson]

I think Art has the idea. I am not sure I understand your improvements Richard. The pusher block would have to be changed for each spacer width but it would help keep the board stable. I might have to make a jig for a couple of different sizes but by supporting the cut off thru the cut maybe it wouldn't come flying out at me.

[Greg Ketell]

A new attachment for your sled, an 'L' shaped bracket that is a "vacuum chuck" for your wood. 4 pieces of 3/4 plywood, glue the middle two together and hollow them out leaving about and inch on the vertical side of the L on the blade side. Drill a bunch of holes from the hollow to the blade side of the vertical. Glue on the top and bottom. Cut the bottom of the base to make it smooth. Clamp that to your sled and trim the vertical leg square. Drill a hole in the top into the hollowed area the size of your shop vac hose end.

To use it, clamp it to your sled so that there is a gap between it and your blade the thickness you want your segment to be. Plug in your shop vac and turn it on. Push your block of wood up against the L so that its also up against your sled base. If you need it you can add a waste piece of 1/4" hardboard to close off unused holes.
Make your cut. Since the segment piece is held to the L and the other piece is away from your blade you can't get a kickback. Turn off the saw and remove the segment. Push your now narrower source block back against the L and make a new cut. Repeat until you have turned your source block into a series of perfectly sized segments.

You can use this for ripping or cross cutting.

GK

[Dewey Torres]

Greg,
Was that your own idea? Man that's good!

[Bob Way]

Ben, the Greek Key is a nice design and worth the effort. I took the smaller pieces for the inner parts of the design to final length with my disc sander and the jig used for sanding segments. It may be an option for you.

Process involved crosscutting them a little longer then necessary on the bandsaw, clean up an end that will be glued to another piece with a touch to the disc sander, glue the pieces together. That way you will have a longer length to handle. When the glue is set, use the segment jig and disc sander to take the piece to the length your after. The segment jig has a fence 90 degrees to the disc that helped, and I made a square end guide that was used to make sure everything ended up the same size.

Come to think of it, the disc sander was probably the primary tool I used. Anyhow, good luck with your project.

[Greg Ketell]

I wish it was, but no. A friend and fellow turner told me what to "google" for and I found the design on David Reed Smith's web site.

http://www.davidreedsmith.com/Articles/VacuumRipFence/VacuumRipFence.htm

I couldn't find the link last night so typed it all in. This morning I remembered it. Ahh, a good night's sleep is a good thing.

Oh, and I HIGHLY recommend the micro adjust adapter. But as he says, use a fine pitch bolt. 20 pitch yields 20 teeth per inch (.05 inch), 1/4 turn ends up giving you .0125 inch adjustments. 1/16th turn yields .003125. wheeee

GK

[Ben Richardson]

Greg that is a great solution. With a little modification for small pieces and a cross cut.:) One of the members of our woodworking club (Diablo Woodworkers) had a very similar idea. I will give it a try.

Thanks

[Dewey Torres]

Thanks Greg... got r' bookmarked!